Sunday, July 31, 2011

How to Build a Rammed Earth Home Part 1

Before we begin, you should know a dinky about me. In my twenties and early thirties, I worked too many hours, days, months, and years in the building trade. Most of it was in concrete forming and finishing- which is essential for the starting stages of the home. I also did framing, roofing, plumbing, electrical, and terminate carpentry. I studied math and geology in college.

For this building, it will be a easy flat roof, 60'x20'.

Carpentry Framing

1. Begin your work by clearing off the land you have chosen, preferably flat. Dig a trench 3 feet wide and 1 1/2 foot deep following the perimeter of the home with the town of the wall being the town of the trench. Lay in three 5/8 in. Rebar evenly spaced. Drive stakes into the town of the trench at the corners and every eight feet. These stakes will be your level mark, use a friend with tripod and level. If you are unfamiliar with a tripod and level there is an old timers way to get your footing level. Buy a clear plastic hose about 100 feet long fill about 3/4 full with water. Hold one end at a corner, look for water level, use the other end at what point you wish to level just by finding the water level at that point. (sounds hard to do, but when do it you'll perceive how easy it is). Now fill trench with concrete, level, and smooth.

2. The next step is to establish your setup to build the walls. First you need to conjecture how much material you will need to fill in the forms for the walls. The recipe is height times the width times the length then divided by 27. This will give us the number of yards(cubic yards)to order. The sample home we will build is 12x2x160/27=149yds. The mix for the walls will be 40% sand, 40% clay dirt, and 20% 1 in. Gravel. The mix may need to be adjusted due to ability of the dirt. What good way to know if this mixture works for you is to build a 4'x4'x1' deep box, put in your mixture, tamp down firmly, and sprinkle a layer of cement, dampen all the mixture (don't flood). Now wait one day, take off forms from box and see if this mixture works (all clay soils are different). I recommend that you order only half your materials at first. Don't forget that if you found a good piece of land to buy that under that top soil maybe all the clay dirt you need. Have all your materials dumped close to each other, so that they are nothing else but mixed. I would not get my tool in place just yet- the tool that you will need to rent.

3. At this time I would purchase the materials that I need to build the forms. Depending on how far or how much wall you want to build at any given time will conclude how many forms you want to build. So, with that in mind, we are going 16 feet long and 12 feet high. That means we will buy 12 sheets of 5/8 plywood, 6 on each side. We will also need to buy 24 straight 12foot 2x4's and get an assortment of 2x6's all straight and long for braces. Be aware that we will later use these sheets on the roof. To build the forms, take 2x4's lay them on the 2 in. Side and nail to the plywood. One down on the face of all four sides touching at the corners and one down the middle short side. Then wipe oil on the side of the form that touches the wall, preferably mineral oil or vegetable oil.

4. Before we put forms up, we need to do chalk lines on the concrete footer. Pick one projection to start with, find the town and drive a concrete nail at this spot. On the other corners, find their town and with a bold marker, put an x there. Now with a 100 foot tape measure, have one hold the starting of tape at the concrete nail, pull the tape to the opposite projection (sometimes called caddy corner). Take note of the reading of the tape, then have your friend move to the next corner, and repeat. The two readings should the same. If not, convert your bold marks, shorten the reading that was longest, repeat old steps until the caddy projection readings are the same. You have just squared the walls. Now you just need to pop the chalk lines on the footer from projection to projection on center.

5. We can now begin setting forms up. This is nothing else but very easy. Begin at a corner, on the inside, lay down two short 2x12's with the town (chalk line), each board should be on either side of the line. Put up one form, with the 4 foot being the height and 8 foot being the length. Take a 3 or 4 foot 2x6 nail to the lowest of the form, drive a stake to the end of the board and nail to the stake. Repeat this in the middle lowest and again at the end. The lowest is supported, now plumb the vertical of the form with your level and then put supports at the top, but under the 2x4. Your first form should be set, check the inside of the form and it should be the width of the 2x12 from your chalk line (11 1/2 in.). Set the opposite form and repeat process. I recommend that you set two sets of forms, put your end caps on and start filling your forms with materials. The end cap is just two 2x12's 4 foot high nailed to the end of the forms, nail a consolidate of small boards over the 2x12's for support. What you have now is one long box, centered on the footer.

6. Make sure that the sand and clay/dirt are mixed to the recipe you found. Begin filling to about 1 foot deep, with spreader put down a thick coat of cement. Now tamp down your material until solid. Sprinkle water, do not soak. Repeat process until a few inches shy of the top of form. At this time add the next set of forms, plumb these forms, nailing to lowest forms and adding supports to ground. Continue process until you reach desired height. The back wall needs to be 4 in. Lower when building a flat roof. Do not take off forms until the walls appear dry.

7. As for windows or doors, build a box with 2x12's to the desired size of window or door allowing for room to insert window or door. Obviously, you will put door frame/box in before filling material and add window frame/box when you have reached the lowest height of window then add frame. The top/header of window or door can be either concrete or 4x4's extending 2 feet on each side of window or door.

8. Once you have completed the walls all around, you are ready to put the cap on. This is concrete that protect your wall and become an anchor for the roof. Depending on the style of roof, will dictate the type of cap we will put on the wall. For this home, we are building a flat style roof. So in this case we will have 4 in. On top and 7 in. X 4 in. Arrival down each side. Take a 2x12 drill 5/8 in. Holes 4 in. Down from the top every 2 feet. Use ½ in. All thread bolts 30 in. Long, run the bolts through the holes on the boards/forms. Place a washer and nut on the outside, lay the boards on top of the walls. Snug up the boards to the walls and then dig out 4 in. Wide to nearly the lowest of the board/form. Do this all around the walls, then lay in three 5/8 in. Rebar evenly spaced and all around the top. You are now ready to pour the concrete. Do not take off forms until concrete is dry.

You are now fulfilled, with the walls, except you need to spray a sealer on all the walls.

In the next part of building a rammed earth home, we will setup the roof and floor."

How to Build a Rammed Earth Home Part 1

Before we begin, you should know a dinky about me. In my twenties and early thirties, I worked too many hours, days, months, and years in the building trade. Most of it was in concrete forming and finishing- which is essential for the starting stages of the home. I also did framing, roofing, plumbing, electrical, and terminate carpentry. I studied math and geology in college.

For this building, it will be a easy flat roof, 60'x20'.

Carpentry Framing

1. Begin your work by clearing off the land you have chosen, preferably flat. Dig a trench 3 feet wide and 1 1/2 foot deep following the perimeter of the home with the town of the wall being the town of the trench. Lay in three 5/8 in. Rebar evenly spaced. Drive stakes into the town of the trench at the corners and every eight feet. These stakes will be your level mark, use a friend with tripod and level. If you are unfamiliar with a tripod and level there is an old timers way to get your footing level. Buy a clear plastic hose about 100 feet long fill about 3/4 full with water. Hold one end at a corner, look for water level, use the other end at what point you wish to level just by finding the water level at that point. (sounds hard to do, but when do it you'll perceive how easy it is). Now fill trench with concrete, level, and smooth.

2. The next step is to establish your setup to build the walls. First you need to conjecture how much material you will need to fill in the forms for the walls. The recipe is height times the width times the length then divided by 27. This will give us the number of yards(cubic yards)to order. The sample home we will build is 12x2x160/27=149yds. The mix for the walls will be 40% sand, 40% clay dirt, and 20% 1 in. Gravel. The mix may need to be adjusted due to ability of the dirt. What good way to know if this mixture works for you is to build a 4'x4'x1' deep box, put in your mixture, tamp down firmly, and sprinkle a layer of cement, dampen all the mixture (don't flood). Now wait one day, take off forms from box and see if this mixture works (all clay soils are different). I recommend that you order only half your materials at first. Don't forget that if you found a good piece of land to buy that under that top soil maybe all the clay dirt you need. Have all your materials dumped close to each other, so that they are nothing else but mixed. I would not get my tool in place just yet- the tool that you will need to rent.

3. At this time I would purchase the materials that I need to build the forms. Depending on how far or how much wall you want to build at any given time will conclude how many forms you want to build. So, with that in mind, we are going 16 feet long and 12 feet high. That means we will buy 12 sheets of 5/8 plywood, 6 on each side. We will also need to buy 24 straight 12foot 2x4's and get an assortment of 2x6's all straight and long for braces. Be aware that we will later use these sheets on the roof. To build the forms, take 2x4's lay them on the 2 in. Side and nail to the plywood. One down on the face of all four sides touching at the corners and one down the middle short side. Then wipe oil on the side of the form that touches the wall, preferably mineral oil or vegetable oil.

4. Before we put forms up, we need to do chalk lines on the concrete footer. Pick one projection to start with, find the town and drive a concrete nail at this spot. On the other corners, find their town and with a bold marker, put an x there. Now with a 100 foot tape measure, have one hold the starting of tape at the concrete nail, pull the tape to the opposite projection (sometimes called caddy corner). Take note of the reading of the tape, then have your friend move to the next corner, and repeat. The two readings should the same. If not, convert your bold marks, shorten the reading that was longest, repeat old steps until the caddy projection readings are the same. You have just squared the walls. Now you just need to pop the chalk lines on the footer from projection to projection on center.

5. We can now begin setting forms up. This is nothing else but very easy. Begin at a corner, on the inside, lay down two short 2x12's with the town (chalk line), each board should be on either side of the line. Put up one form, with the 4 foot being the height and 8 foot being the length. Take a 3 or 4 foot 2x6 nail to the lowest of the form, drive a stake to the end of the board and nail to the stake. Repeat this in the middle lowest and again at the end. The lowest is supported, now plumb the vertical of the form with your level and then put supports at the top, but under the 2x4. Your first form should be set, check the inside of the form and it should be the width of the 2x12 from your chalk line (11 1/2 in.). Set the opposite form and repeat process. I recommend that you set two sets of forms, put your end caps on and start filling your forms with materials. The end cap is just two 2x12's 4 foot high nailed to the end of the forms, nail a consolidate of small boards over the 2x12's for support. What you have now is one long box, centered on the footer.

6. Make sure that the sand and clay/dirt are mixed to the recipe you found. Begin filling to about 1 foot deep, with spreader put down a thick coat of cement. Now tamp down your material until solid. Sprinkle water, do not soak. Repeat process until a few inches shy of the top of form. At this time add the next set of forms, plumb these forms, nailing to lowest forms and adding supports to ground. Continue process until you reach desired height. The back wall needs to be 4 in. Lower when building a flat roof. Do not take off forms until the walls appear dry.

7. As for windows or doors, build a box with 2x12's to the desired size of window or door allowing for room to insert window or door. Obviously, you will put door frame/box in before filling material and add window frame/box when you have reached the lowest height of window then add frame. The top/header of window or door can be either concrete or 4x4's extending 2 feet on each side of window or door.

8. Once you have completed the walls all around, you are ready to put the cap on. This is concrete that protect your wall and become an anchor for the roof. Depending on the style of roof, will dictate the type of cap we will put on the wall. For this home, we are building a flat style roof. So in this case we will have 4 in. On top and 7 in. X 4 in. Arrival down each side. Take a 2x12 drill 5/8 in. Holes 4 in. Down from the top every 2 feet. Use ½ in. All thread bolts 30 in. Long, run the bolts through the holes on the boards/forms. Place a washer and nut on the outside, lay the boards on top of the walls. Snug up the boards to the walls and then dig out 4 in. Wide to nearly the lowest of the board/form. Do this all around the walls, then lay in three 5/8 in. Rebar evenly spaced and all around the top. You are now ready to pour the concrete. Do not take off forms until concrete is dry.

You are now fulfilled, with the walls, except you need to spray a sealer on all the walls.

In the next part of building a rammed earth home, we will setup the roof and floor."

How to Build a Rammed Earth Home Part 1

Friday, July 29, 2011

construction Stairs With A Platform Or Landing

When Designing stairs with a platform or landing in the middle, a coarse mistake is to first build a landing at an arbitrary level, then organize and build the upper and lower staircases. Ninety-five percent of the time this results in the upper and lower staircases having noticeably distinct geometry. By analyzing your entire staircase first, then construction your platform at the accurate level, you will end up with matching flights.

First of all, let me say that stair-building is one of the most involved aspects of carpentry (or ironwork), so Don'T Rush. Rushing regularly results in poor results and wasted lumber.

Carpentry Framing

In summary, here are the steps (no pun intended) ...

Design A Phantom Set Of Stairs For The entire Rise (Ignoring The Platform)

Calculate A Rise Per Step That Meets Local Code (e.g. 7 1/8)

Build A Platform At One Of The Step Levels (e.g. 21 3/8)

Design The Upper Flight, Using The Same Rise Per Step As The Phantom Staircase

Design The Lower Flight, Using The Same Rise Per Step And Run Per Step As The Upper Staircase

Now You Have Two Flights With Matching Geometry, manufacture A compound Staircase

In greater information ...

Most importantly, you want the Rise Per Step for both the top and lowest flights to be the same. Your local construction code probably requires this, and even regardless of code, the stairs will look and feel best if Rise Per Step, Run Per Step and all the other figures are the same for both flights.

In order to ensure that you have equal Rise Per Step on both flights, first organize a phantom set of stairs using your total wide Rise like you're manufacture one long set of stairs instead of breaking it in two. (You don't of course need to worry about the wide Run at this point.) Take your wide Rise and divide it by your local construction code maximum Rise Per Step (7-1/2 inches is a coarse value.) This tells you the whole of steps you will need. Since you can't have a fraction of a step, round this whole up to get an integer, then divided your wide Rise by this new whole to get your calculated Rise Per Step.

Here's an example:

84.5 wide Rise
7.5 construction Code Maximum Rise Per Step

divide 84.5 by 7.5 = 11.27

11.27 is the ideal whole of steps

round up to 12 full steps

now divide 84.5 by 12

7.04 this is your calculated Rise Per Step

You can now build a platform or landing for your compound staircase at a multiple of 7.04 inches, and both the upper and lower flights will have the same Rise Per Step. For example, if you build the platform at 21.12 inches (3 x 7.04), it would be three steps up from the bottom. If you build it at 35.20 inches, it will be five steps from the bottom.

Now, since the upper flight regularly has space constraints, and the lower flight regularly doesn't, organize your upper flight first. Use the same process for the Upper wide Rise and you should end up with the same Rise Per Step (7.04). infer your Run Per Step and make sure to contain some overhang for the treads. (I've industrialized a staircase calculator for this at: http://www.Shalla.Net .) Now use these same Rise Per Step, Run Per Step, Tread Size, and Tread Overhang to organize your lower flight. Your upper and lower flights will now have matching geometry.

The key point here is that you have to build your platform at the right level in order to have matching upper and lower flights.

construction Stairs With A Platform Or Landing

When Designing stairs with a platform or landing in the middle, a coarse mistake is to first build a landing at an arbitrary level, then organize and build the upper and lower staircases. Ninety-five percent of the time this results in the upper and lower staircases having noticeably distinct geometry. By analyzing your entire staircase first, then construction your platform at the accurate level, you will end up with matching flights.

First of all, let me say that stair-building is one of the most involved aspects of carpentry (or ironwork), so Don'T Rush. Rushing regularly results in poor results and wasted lumber.

Carpentry Framing

In summary, here are the steps (no pun intended) ...

Design A Phantom Set Of Stairs For The entire Rise (Ignoring The Platform)

Calculate A Rise Per Step That Meets Local Code (e.g. 7 1/8)

Build A Platform At One Of The Step Levels (e.g. 21 3/8)

Design The Upper Flight, Using The Same Rise Per Step As The Phantom Staircase

Design The Lower Flight, Using The Same Rise Per Step And Run Per Step As The Upper Staircase

Now You Have Two Flights With Matching Geometry, manufacture A compound Staircase

In greater information ...

Most importantly, you want the Rise Per Step for both the top and lowest flights to be the same. Your local construction code probably requires this, and even regardless of code, the stairs will look and feel best if Rise Per Step, Run Per Step and all the other figures are the same for both flights.

In order to ensure that you have equal Rise Per Step on both flights, first organize a phantom set of stairs using your total wide Rise like you're manufacture one long set of stairs instead of breaking it in two. (You don't of course need to worry about the wide Run at this point.) Take your wide Rise and divide it by your local construction code maximum Rise Per Step (7-1/2 inches is a coarse value.) This tells you the whole of steps you will need. Since you can't have a fraction of a step, round this whole up to get an integer, then divided your wide Rise by this new whole to get your calculated Rise Per Step.

Here's an example:

84.5 wide Rise
7.5 construction Code Maximum Rise Per Step

divide 84.5 by 7.5 = 11.27

11.27 is the ideal whole of steps

round up to 12 full steps

now divide 84.5 by 12

7.04 this is your calculated Rise Per Step

You can now build a platform or landing for your compound staircase at a multiple of 7.04 inches, and both the upper and lower flights will have the same Rise Per Step. For example, if you build the platform at 21.12 inches (3 x 7.04), it would be three steps up from the bottom. If you build it at 35.20 inches, it will be five steps from the bottom.

Now, since the upper flight regularly has space constraints, and the lower flight regularly doesn't, organize your upper flight first. Use the same process for the Upper wide Rise and you should end up with the same Rise Per Step (7.04). infer your Run Per Step and make sure to contain some overhang for the treads. (I've industrialized a staircase calculator for this at: http://www.Shalla.Net .) Now use these same Rise Per Step, Run Per Step, Tread Size, and Tread Overhang to organize your lower flight. Your upper and lower flights will now have matching geometry.

The key point here is that you have to build your platform at the right level in order to have matching upper and lower flights.

construction Stairs With A Platform Or Landing

Thursday, July 28, 2011

Hammering Techniques - Basics of Buying and Using Hammers

The best hammer to have is a 16-ounce curved-claw hammer. For pulling out nails, a curved-claw hammer offers more leverage than a right claw, and requires less strength. Hammers come in three sizes: 13-ounce, 16-ounce and 20-ounce. The 13-ounce is a discontinue hammer and can be too light for some jobs; the 16-ounce is an all-purpose hammer; and the 20-ounce is for driving 16d nails all day when you are framing a house.

If you are going to buy a hammer, try this trick when you are in a hardware store. Turn the hammer upside down to see if it balances at about a 45-degree angle. This test works only for curved-claw hammers with handles of wood, fiberglass, or hollow metal. It's basically a test to see where the weight is in the hammer. Hammers with their weight in the head are easier to wield. If the weight is more in the head, the hammer will stand more vertically. If it's more in the handle, the hammer will be hard to balance. The hammers with solid metal handles are so heavy in the handle that they topple right over.

Carpentry Framing

To be able to hammer effortlessly, you must have a powerful stroke; and to hit the nail roughly every time, you need some technique. The incommunicable is holding your arm relaxed. A lot of power is lost in stiff-arm hammering.

Hold the hammer in a relaxed grip. Raise your whole arm until the upper arm is parallel to the ground. Start the downward stroke with a miniature effort, but then let gravity do the work while you guide the hammer to the nail. When the hammer head is about 6 to 8 inches above the nail, snap your wrist for extra power. It's important that your arm be relaxed, or the wrist snap won't estimate to anything.

The hammer face should be parallel to the nail head upon impact. If it isn't, the nail will bend. So if the nail keeps bending, it's not because it is made of inferior steel or because you are hopeless. It's because you're not hitting the nail squarely. Skinny nails such as discontinue and box nails tend to bend easily. Smaller nails, like 4d to 10d, don't wish as big an arm stroke. For these, raise the hammer head to the level of your shoulder. The wrist snap is even more important here since you aren't raising your arm as high and gravity isn't working for you as much.

Hammering Techniques - Basics of Buying and Using Hammers

The best hammer to have is a 16-ounce curved-claw hammer. For pulling out nails, a curved-claw hammer offers more leverage than a right claw, and requires less strength. Hammers come in three sizes: 13-ounce, 16-ounce and 20-ounce. The 13-ounce is a discontinue hammer and can be too light for some jobs; the 16-ounce is an all-purpose hammer; and the 20-ounce is for driving 16d nails all day when you are framing a house.

If you are going to buy a hammer, try this trick when you are in a hardware store. Turn the hammer upside down to see if it balances at about a 45-degree angle. This test works only for curved-claw hammers with handles of wood, fiberglass, or hollow metal. It's basically a test to see where the weight is in the hammer. Hammers with their weight in the head are easier to wield. If the weight is more in the head, the hammer will stand more vertically. If it's more in the handle, the hammer will be hard to balance. The hammers with solid metal handles are so heavy in the handle that they topple right over.

Carpentry Framing

To be able to hammer effortlessly, you must have a powerful stroke; and to hit the nail roughly every time, you need some technique. The incommunicable is holding your arm relaxed. A lot of power is lost in stiff-arm hammering.

Hold the hammer in a relaxed grip. Raise your whole arm until the upper arm is parallel to the ground. Start the downward stroke with a miniature effort, but then let gravity do the work while you guide the hammer to the nail. When the hammer head is about 6 to 8 inches above the nail, snap your wrist for extra power. It's important that your arm be relaxed, or the wrist snap won't estimate to anything.

The hammer face should be parallel to the nail head upon impact. If it isn't, the nail will bend. So if the nail keeps bending, it's not because it is made of inferior steel or because you are hopeless. It's because you're not hitting the nail squarely. Skinny nails such as discontinue and box nails tend to bend easily. Smaller nails, like 4d to 10d, don't wish as big an arm stroke. For these, raise the hammer head to the level of your shoulder. The wrist snap is even more important here since you aren't raising your arm as high and gravity isn't working for you as much.

Hammering Techniques - Basics of Buying and Using Hammers

Wednesday, July 27, 2011

Hand Tools That All Do-It-Yourselfer's Should Have

No matter what type of work you are doing on your home, there are a few tools you will need. The type of tools that you buy for your home revising projects depends largely on what you will be doing. Many homeowners put off home revising projects because they think they will have to buy tons of tools. This is not unmistakably true. There are definite tools that are primary and others that you can do without.

Whenever you are production changes to your home it is important to put safety first. Stock up on safety equipment before you begin building. Never start a scheme without all of the right equipment to protect yourself. Remember, it only takes one accident to leave you scarred for life. No matter what type of improvements you are making, you need a good pair of goggles, masks for the face and ear plugs.

Carpentry Framing

When doing a fix or remodel for a wall or flooring, the place where the scheme is located will determine which tools you need. For basement walls a wire brush, heavy duty paintbrushes and stiff bristled brushes will be needed. In expanding to these items you will also need to buy waterproof masonry sealers, sponges, household cleaners and large containers. Get a paint stirrer, wire brush, bristled paintbrush and a drill and masonry primer.

When working on outdoors foundations you will need a grading rake, hand tamp, wheelbarrow, hand temp, thorough gardening and a line leveler.

If you are completing repairs on the interior of the house for walls and ceilings, drills, glue gun, pliers, awl, utility knives, tile tongs syringe and stud finder will be needed.

Plaster repairs need that you have a wallboard knife and a paintbrush. Plastering unmistakably calls for a good deal of materials but only a few tools.

Restoring panel walls calls for a hammer, wallboard knife, putty knife, chisels, carpentry knife, nails, pry bar, rubber mallet, caulk gun and framing square.

When you are redoing ceramic tiles you will need a tile cutter, utility knife, awl, nippers, wood tile, grout float and compass.

Repairing wallpaper that is tearing requires an edge roller, sponge, syringe adhesive applicator and utility gun. Wallpaper fix can be very moving because to replace so it is best to fix it when you see that it is tearing.

Ceiling fix requires only a few tools. All you will commonly need for these types of repairs are a drill, hammer and wallboard knife. If you are patching the ceiling there will be a few more tools you will need such as chisels, utility knife and framing square.

Cabinet repairs need that you have a putty knife, short-nap paint roller, pad sander, paintbrushes, paint, and screwdriver.

Hand Tools That All Do-It-Yourselfer's Should Have

No matter what type of work you are doing on your home, there are a few tools you will need. The type of tools that you buy for your home revising projects depends largely on what you will be doing. Many homeowners put off home revising projects because they think they will have to buy tons of tools. This is not unmistakably true. There are definite tools that are primary and others that you can do without.

Whenever you are production changes to your home it is important to put safety first. Stock up on safety equipment before you begin building. Never start a scheme without all of the right equipment to protect yourself. Remember, it only takes one accident to leave you scarred for life. No matter what type of improvements you are making, you need a good pair of goggles, masks for the face and ear plugs.

Carpentry Framing

When doing a fix or remodel for a wall or flooring, the place where the scheme is located will determine which tools you need. For basement walls a wire brush, heavy duty paintbrushes and stiff bristled brushes will be needed. In expanding to these items you will also need to buy waterproof masonry sealers, sponges, household cleaners and large containers. Get a paint stirrer, wire brush, bristled paintbrush and a drill and masonry primer.

When working on outdoors foundations you will need a grading rake, hand tamp, wheelbarrow, hand temp, thorough gardening and a line leveler.

If you are completing repairs on the interior of the house for walls and ceilings, drills, glue gun, pliers, awl, utility knives, tile tongs syringe and stud finder will be needed.

Plaster repairs need that you have a wallboard knife and a paintbrush. Plastering unmistakably calls for a good deal of materials but only a few tools.

Restoring panel walls calls for a hammer, wallboard knife, putty knife, chisels, carpentry knife, nails, pry bar, rubber mallet, caulk gun and framing square.

When you are redoing ceramic tiles you will need a tile cutter, utility knife, awl, nippers, wood tile, grout float and compass.

Repairing wallpaper that is tearing requires an edge roller, sponge, syringe adhesive applicator and utility gun. Wallpaper fix can be very moving because to replace so it is best to fix it when you see that it is tearing.

Ceiling fix requires only a few tools. All you will commonly need for these types of repairs are a drill, hammer and wallboard knife. If you are patching the ceiling there will be a few more tools you will need such as chisels, utility knife and framing square.

Cabinet repairs need that you have a putty knife, short-nap paint roller, pad sander, paintbrushes, paint, and screwdriver.

Hand Tools That All Do-It-Yourselfer's Should Have

Monday, July 25, 2011

7 Steps to manufacture and setup a Glass Block Wall With Style and buildings

For many architects, interior designers, homeowners, and even normal contractors there is a mystique surrounding the found and factory of glass block walls. First you take a self supporting structural glass material (a unique element to begin with) and then mix it with some type of bonding material (usually mortar or silicone) or factory ideas (aluminum or wood are most common) to originate approved and functional walls. You might feel you have to be part chemist and part undertaker of a package deal to do this work, but don't fear, it's not too tough if you corollary these 7 steps.

o Step 1 - Know the Shape of Your Wall - Glass block walls can be built in any shape -straight, with a curve or radius, a 90 degree turn, or even one that stair steps down for found interest and style. Right walls are ordinarily the easiest to build and can now be completed with finished bull nosed end blocks. Curved or radius walls (walk in showers are an exquisite place for this type of found and can save money vs. Other rounded glass wall systems) are a more complicated installation, but newer angle blocks or the Arque shaped units from Pittsburgh Corning can make the rounded look easier to achieve. If you like the idea of stepping the wall down in 8" increments the Encurve block is the goods for you. With the introduction of the Tridron block from Pittsburgh Corning you can even make a glass block column and light it for extra effect.

Carpentry Framing

o Step 2 - Know the Size of Your Wall - A cool glass wall that doesn't stay put in it's former place at your home or business is not cool at all! Form and structure have to work together. If you're designing an covering glass wall greater than 144 square feet, and inside wall greater than 250 square feet, there is a need for horizontal or vertical support. Most residential glass shower or partition walls do not normally exceed these dimensions, however. Inside the walls there should be horizontal or vertical spacers or reinforcing wire for power and support. Some newer interior factory systems are even using aluminum grids or wood frames to put the blocks together, a very approved alternative to the appropriate mortar or silicone processes.

o Step 3 - rule what is going Above and Below the Wall - Glass block are not a structurally supportive material but they can carry their own weight. It is Ok to mount a wood counter over the wall for a bar application, but normally a granite countertop should be supported independent of the glass masonry units. Underneath these walls the best base options are concrete floors, acrylic or corian or tile shower curbs, or wood floors with framing below.

o Step 4 - reconsider how you're going to anchor the wall - While most of these walls are grouted together with mortar and spacers you still will want to anchor the wall into an existing wall(s) for support. Panel anchors made of aluminum go into the horizontal courses of the blocks and are screwed into the side of the wall to ensure that the wall doesn't move. If you don't have a side wall to anchor into it is still inherent to have a glass block wall by providing vertical supports through the wall and into the floor below.

o Step 5 - figure out the Style, Design, and Pattern of Block - This is not the old-style block any more - a clear colorless cube of glass. Now there are vivid colored glass blocks, artistically designed murals or patterns, beveled edge blocks, and blocks in all sorts of shapes, patterns, and styles. Look at a web site that shows the full line of possibilities. Dissimilar block sizes can combined in walls (for example combining 6" x 6" blocks with 12" x 12" blocks or 4" x 8" blocks with 8" x 8" blocks in the same wall) to originate distinctive designs. If you need privacy there are fiberous insers ready in the blocks and privacy patterns as well.

o Step 6 - reconsider any special needs, fire ratings, or privacy requirements- Glass block roll in showers without an entry curb are an exquisite way to join style, function, and accessibility for those with special needs. You can get a wheelchair through the rounded, radius shower opportunity and cut the hassle of the maintenance at the same time. There are also 60 and 90 exiguous fire rated blocks for covering walls where you want to accomplish light and privacy together.

o Step 7 - Know your skills or don't be afraid to call or quest for the experts - The skills to setup a glass block wall involve a mixture of masonry, carpentry, glazing, or grouting expertise. If you've got these types of skills jump right into the project. You can buy the private glass blocks, spacer systems, or even (in some markets) have wall sections built to make the job easier. If on the other hand you're not too handy, check out the Internet for your local specialty glass block contractor. Many normal contractors or masonry contractors are not that experienced in doing glass block work and will normally subcontract the work out anyway.

Now that you've got the 7 steps you're ready to get started!

7 Steps to manufacture and setup a Glass Block Wall With Style and buildings

For many architects, interior designers, homeowners, and even normal contractors there is a mystique surrounding the found and factory of glass block walls. First you take a self supporting structural glass material (a unique element to begin with) and then mix it with some type of bonding material (usually mortar or silicone) or factory ideas (aluminum or wood are most common) to originate approved and functional walls. You might feel you have to be part chemist and part undertaker of a package deal to do this work, but don't fear, it's not too tough if you corollary these 7 steps.

o Step 1 - Know the Shape of Your Wall - Glass block walls can be built in any shape -straight, with a curve or radius, a 90 degree turn, or even one that stair steps down for found interest and style. Right walls are ordinarily the easiest to build and can now be completed with finished bull nosed end blocks. Curved or radius walls (walk in showers are an exquisite place for this type of found and can save money vs. Other rounded glass wall systems) are a more complicated installation, but newer angle blocks or the Arque shaped units from Pittsburgh Corning can make the rounded look easier to achieve. If you like the idea of stepping the wall down in 8" increments the Encurve block is the goods for you. With the introduction of the Tridron block from Pittsburgh Corning you can even make a glass block column and light it for extra effect.

Carpentry Framing

o Step 2 - Know the Size of Your Wall - A cool glass wall that doesn't stay put in it's former place at your home or business is not cool at all! Form and structure have to work together. If you're designing an covering glass wall greater than 144 square feet, and inside wall greater than 250 square feet, there is a need for horizontal or vertical support. Most residential glass shower or partition walls do not normally exceed these dimensions, however. Inside the walls there should be horizontal or vertical spacers or reinforcing wire for power and support. Some newer interior factory systems are even using aluminum grids or wood frames to put the blocks together, a very approved alternative to the appropriate mortar or silicone processes.

o Step 3 - rule what is going Above and Below the Wall - Glass block are not a structurally supportive material but they can carry their own weight. It is Ok to mount a wood counter over the wall for a bar application, but normally a granite countertop should be supported independent of the glass masonry units. Underneath these walls the best base options are concrete floors, acrylic or corian or tile shower curbs, or wood floors with framing below.

o Step 4 - reconsider how you're going to anchor the wall - While most of these walls are grouted together with mortar and spacers you still will want to anchor the wall into an existing wall(s) for support. Panel anchors made of aluminum go into the horizontal courses of the blocks and are screwed into the side of the wall to ensure that the wall doesn't move. If you don't have a side wall to anchor into it is still inherent to have a glass block wall by providing vertical supports through the wall and into the floor below.

o Step 5 - figure out the Style, Design, and Pattern of Block - This is not the old-style block any more - a clear colorless cube of glass. Now there are vivid colored glass blocks, artistically designed murals or patterns, beveled edge blocks, and blocks in all sorts of shapes, patterns, and styles. Look at a web site that shows the full line of possibilities. Dissimilar block sizes can combined in walls (for example combining 6" x 6" blocks with 12" x 12" blocks or 4" x 8" blocks with 8" x 8" blocks in the same wall) to originate distinctive designs. If you need privacy there are fiberous insers ready in the blocks and privacy patterns as well.

o Step 6 - reconsider any special needs, fire ratings, or privacy requirements- Glass block roll in showers without an entry curb are an exquisite way to join style, function, and accessibility for those with special needs. You can get a wheelchair through the rounded, radius shower opportunity and cut the hassle of the maintenance at the same time. There are also 60 and 90 exiguous fire rated blocks for covering walls where you want to accomplish light and privacy together.

o Step 7 - Know your skills or don't be afraid to call or quest for the experts - The skills to setup a glass block wall involve a mixture of masonry, carpentry, glazing, or grouting expertise. If you've got these types of skills jump right into the project. You can buy the private glass blocks, spacer systems, or even (in some markets) have wall sections built to make the job easier. If on the other hand you're not too handy, check out the Internet for your local specialty glass block contractor. Many normal contractors or masonry contractors are not that experienced in doing glass block work and will normally subcontract the work out anyway.

Now that you've got the 7 steps you're ready to get started!

7 Steps to manufacture and setup a Glass Block Wall With Style and buildings

Thursday, July 21, 2011

Carpentry Tools With the Most Value

The carpentry tools I value most are the ones I use most often and make me the most money. For that fancy alone my 16 oz. Framing hammer has to be one of my most valued tools. I use it on practically every job I do. It's one of those great carpenters tools because it's lightweight sufficient to use as a halt hammer but the right claws make equally as great for framing and normal usage. This tool will last you forever. Buy it once and it will help make you money for the rest of your life. If that's not value I don't know what is.

When determining how much value carpenter tools have you also have to think how much money the tool cost you in the beginning vs. How much money it will make for you. That's why I unquestionably value my sliding aggregate miter saw. You can use it for production rough cuts for framing or halt cuts for trim work. You can even use it to make photograph frames. Obviously, the more times you can use a tool the more money it will help you earn and the more value it will have.

Carpentry Framing

Sometimes the carpentry tools I value most are the ones that cost me the least. Take a shovel for example. How many projects can you think of where you might need one. About a million? If you buy a potential shovel with a fiberglass handle, it'll be colse to to make money for you for years to come and it will only cost you about 35 bucks.

Another one of those carpenters tools with a lot of value is a chalk box. Again, it doesn't cost much money but has a lot of uses. Of procedure you can chalk a right line with it. But you can also use it as a dry line or a plumb bob. You may have to replace the string once in a great while but the tool will be colse to long sufficient to pay for itself many times over.

Without a doubt, one of my carpenter tools with the most value would have to be my power saw. practically every job will require you to cut something. A good power saw will cut practically anything. You can make cross cuts, rip cuts, shallow cuts, or deep cuts. You can cut separate materials such as wood, metal, fiberglass and plastic. A power saw's diversity alone gives it great value.

Carpentry Tools With the Most Value

The carpentry tools I value most are the ones I use most often and make me the most money. For that fancy alone my 16 oz. Framing hammer has to be one of my most valued tools. I use it on practically every job I do. It's one of those great carpenters tools because it's lightweight sufficient to use as a halt hammer but the right claws make equally as great for framing and normal usage. This tool will last you forever. Buy it once and it will help make you money for the rest of your life. If that's not value I don't know what is.

When determining how much value carpenter tools have you also have to think how much money the tool cost you in the beginning vs. How much money it will make for you. That's why I unquestionably value my sliding aggregate miter saw. You can use it for production rough cuts for framing or halt cuts for trim work. You can even use it to make photograph frames. Obviously, the more times you can use a tool the more money it will help you earn and the more value it will have.

Carpentry Framing

Sometimes the carpentry tools I value most are the ones that cost me the least. Take a shovel for example. How many projects can you think of where you might need one. About a million? If you buy a potential shovel with a fiberglass handle, it'll be colse to to make money for you for years to come and it will only cost you about 35 bucks.

Another one of those carpenters tools with a lot of value is a chalk box. Again, it doesn't cost much money but has a lot of uses. Of procedure you can chalk a right line with it. But you can also use it as a dry line or a plumb bob. You may have to replace the string once in a great while but the tool will be colse to long sufficient to pay for itself many times over.

Without a doubt, one of my carpenter tools with the most value would have to be my power saw. practically every job will require you to cut something. A good power saw will cut practically anything. You can make cross cuts, rip cuts, shallow cuts, or deep cuts. You can cut separate materials such as wood, metal, fiberglass and plastic. A power saw's diversity alone gives it great value.

Carpentry Tools With the Most Value

Wednesday, July 20, 2011

Carpentry Trade Schools

If you enjoy working with your hands, pick a carpentry trade school and start a successful future. Training prepares students for entry-level employment in the carpentry trade. Students come to be proficient in the use of power tool to ensure success as a craftsman in the carpentry trade. You can pick a procedure online that teaches all the basics of the carpentry trade, along with how to read blueprints.

Carpentry

Carpentry Framing

Carpentry is divided into four sections: occupational skills, formwork, framing, and interior or surface finishing. Carpentry skills are used in milling, fastening, joining, assembling, erecting and dismantling structural and architectural materials, and these are just some of the responsibilities a good carpenter will deal with during a day's work. Residential carpentry can be more artistic if you are the creative type. industrial carpentry may wish more and distinct types of skills and certification.

Carpentry

Students will be encouraged to seek an apprenticeship as a means of furthering their skills towards journeyman level in the carpentry trade. The Carpentry apprenticeship agenda is four years long with students attending classes in both theoretical and practical aspects of the Carpentry trade for six weeks each year and leads to interprovincial certification. Carpentry Pre-apprentice agenda This agenda is designed to enable students to enter the carpentry trade in a estimate of areas from new construction framing to renovations and remodeling.

The procedure is set up to cover the broad areas of the manufactures in phase one and to cover, in more detail, components of the carpentry trade in depth in the second phase of the program. The procedure objectives are to introduce safety regulations and practices for the carpentry trade Introduce materials and applications To form an understanding of the work habits and practical techniques required in the carpentry trade To form an understanding of the various areas of specialization and job opportunities within the trade To promote the allowable use of trade tools and the quality to use them efficiently To form the quality to read and work from trade blueprints.

The carpentry trade is well excellent to those who enjoy working outdoors and working with their hands, applying creative ingenuity to building. Now think this; every construction you see needed a team of skilled carpenters to complete it; even the furniture in our homes is crafted by someone who has training in the carpentry trade. Exposed to hazards of carpentry trade along with various carpentry tool such as saws, nail guns, power tools, scaffolding, etc. Carpentry has been fully updated and wide to reflect the most recent trends and standard practices of the carpentry trade.

Some apprenticeships in carpentry might wish you to travel and researching the exact firm will allow you find out exact facts about that if necessary. For carpentry, this may be best done in person. You can also apply online for carpentry apprenticeships but be sure you're inescapable in the firm before applying. Students learn the safe and allowable use and care of hand tools, power hand tools and power tool used in the carpentry trade.

Carpentry Trade Schools

If you enjoy working with your hands, pick a carpentry trade school and start a successful future. Training prepares students for entry-level employment in the carpentry trade. Students come to be proficient in the use of power tool to ensure success as a craftsman in the carpentry trade. You can pick a procedure online that teaches all the basics of the carpentry trade, along with how to read blueprints.

Carpentry

Carpentry Framing

Carpentry is divided into four sections: occupational skills, formwork, framing, and interior or surface finishing. Carpentry skills are used in milling, fastening, joining, assembling, erecting and dismantling structural and architectural materials, and these are just some of the responsibilities a good carpenter will deal with during a day's work. Residential carpentry can be more artistic if you are the creative type. industrial carpentry may wish more and distinct types of skills and certification.

Carpentry

Students will be encouraged to seek an apprenticeship as a means of furthering their skills towards journeyman level in the carpentry trade. The Carpentry apprenticeship agenda is four years long with students attending classes in both theoretical and practical aspects of the Carpentry trade for six weeks each year and leads to interprovincial certification. Carpentry Pre-apprentice agenda This agenda is designed to enable students to enter the carpentry trade in a estimate of areas from new construction framing to renovations and remodeling.

The procedure is set up to cover the broad areas of the manufactures in phase one and to cover, in more detail, components of the carpentry trade in depth in the second phase of the program. The procedure objectives are to introduce safety regulations and practices for the carpentry trade Introduce materials and applications To form an understanding of the work habits and practical techniques required in the carpentry trade To form an understanding of the various areas of specialization and job opportunities within the trade To promote the allowable use of trade tools and the quality to use them efficiently To form the quality to read and work from trade blueprints.

The carpentry trade is well excellent to those who enjoy working outdoors and working with their hands, applying creative ingenuity to building. Now think this; every construction you see needed a team of skilled carpenters to complete it; even the furniture in our homes is crafted by someone who has training in the carpentry trade. Exposed to hazards of carpentry trade along with various carpentry tool such as saws, nail guns, power tools, scaffolding, etc. Carpentry has been fully updated and wide to reflect the most recent trends and standard practices of the carpentry trade.

Some apprenticeships in carpentry might wish you to travel and researching the exact firm will allow you find out exact facts about that if necessary. For carpentry, this may be best done in person. You can also apply online for carpentry apprenticeships but be sure you're inescapable in the firm before applying. Students learn the safe and allowable use and care of hand tools, power hand tools and power tool used in the carpentry trade.

Carpentry Trade Schools

Tuesday, July 19, 2011

Framing a Gable Roof

There are many styles of homes that are built with gable roofs. It is the simplest roof of all to frame. It is also the most base roof built for that theorize alone.

All the rafters cut for a gable roof are all cut to the same length. The birdsmouth, which is the cutout that sits on the top plate, is located in the same place on all rafters. The overhang, if there is one, is also the same.

Carpentry Framing

The ridge board, which is commonly a 2x, runs the full distance of the house. This can be cut ahead of time and have the rafter layout marked on it. The rafter layout commonly matches the wall stud layout. This transfers the roof load down to the foundation.

Before any framing begins, some of the plywood that will be used for roof sheathing is laid over the ceiling joists the whole distance of the building. This gives the carpentry crew something to favorably stand and walk on while the construction of the roof. It's also a good idea to pass all the roof plywood up to the ceiling joists. This makes passing it up to the roof much easier.

Next, pass the ridge board(s) up and lay them on the plywood walkway, production sure the layout is going the right way and matches the wall layout. Now pass the rafters up. Lay them with the plumb cuts on the plywood and the tails on the top plate. If the house is a ranch, the rafters can be leaned against the wall in the middle of ceiling joists to keep them from sliding of the wall. Send up a join of 2x4's for bracing and you are ready to frame.

Before the ridge board is even raised, nail two rafters to one side, nailing on the first one and the last one on the layout. The ridge can now be raised. Pull the ridge so the birdsmouths are tight to the wall and raise it high sufficient so the level cuts of the birdsmouths are flat on top of the wall. Once the rafters are in place tack them to the wall. Now nail two rafters on the other side of the construction to the top plate. These will also be the first and last rafters on the layout and will mirror the ones you put up on the other side of the building. Raise or lower the ridge so the top of the plumb cuts on the rafters meet the top edge of the ridge. If the rafters where cut correctly,
the plumb cuts should fit snugly against the ridge with minute or no gaps.

With the ridge in place, install a stud in the gable end from the ridge down to the top plate, using a level to plumb it up. Take one of the 2x4 braces and nail it near the top of the stud. Nail a block to the plywood walkway being sure to catch a join ceiling joists. Now put the level on the 1 1/2" side of the stud and plumb it that way. When the stud is plumb, nail the 2x brace to the block. This will square up and position the roof where it needs to be. The rest of the rafters can now be installed, alternating from one side to the other, pulling the rafters tight to the wall and bringing the plumb cut to the top of the ridge. By alternating from one side to the other the ridge will stay straight. If one side is installed all at once, the weight will push on the ridge creating a bow. This will make it tough to straighten when the other side is put on.

After the roof is framed, collar ties, fascia boards, and overhangs are put on. With those items in place, the plywood can be put on. Frame in the gable ends and your ready for shingles.

Mike Merisko (c) 2006
http://www.sawkerfs.com

Framing a Gable Roof

There are many styles of homes that are built with gable roofs. It is the simplest roof of all to frame. It is also the most base roof built for that theorize alone.

All the rafters cut for a gable roof are all cut to the same length. The birdsmouth, which is the cutout that sits on the top plate, is located in the same place on all rafters. The overhang, if there is one, is also the same.

Carpentry Framing

The ridge board, which is commonly a 2x, runs the full distance of the house. This can be cut ahead of time and have the rafter layout marked on it. The rafter layout commonly matches the wall stud layout. This transfers the roof load down to the foundation.

Before any framing begins, some of the plywood that will be used for roof sheathing is laid over the ceiling joists the whole distance of the building. This gives the carpentry crew something to favorably stand and walk on while the construction of the roof. It's also a good idea to pass all the roof plywood up to the ceiling joists. This makes passing it up to the roof much easier.

Next, pass the ridge board(s) up and lay them on the plywood walkway, production sure the layout is going the right way and matches the wall layout. Now pass the rafters up. Lay them with the plumb cuts on the plywood and the tails on the top plate. If the house is a ranch, the rafters can be leaned against the wall in the middle of ceiling joists to keep them from sliding of the wall. Send up a join of 2x4's for bracing and you are ready to frame.

Before the ridge board is even raised, nail two rafters to one side, nailing on the first one and the last one on the layout. The ridge can now be raised. Pull the ridge so the birdsmouths are tight to the wall and raise it high sufficient so the level cuts of the birdsmouths are flat on top of the wall. Once the rafters are in place tack them to the wall. Now nail two rafters on the other side of the construction to the top plate. These will also be the first and last rafters on the layout and will mirror the ones you put up on the other side of the building. Raise or lower the ridge so the top of the plumb cuts on the rafters meet the top edge of the ridge. If the rafters where cut correctly,
the plumb cuts should fit snugly against the ridge with minute or no gaps.

With the ridge in place, install a stud in the gable end from the ridge down to the top plate, using a level to plumb it up. Take one of the 2x4 braces and nail it near the top of the stud. Nail a block to the plywood walkway being sure to catch a join ceiling joists. Now put the level on the 1 1/2" side of the stud and plumb it that way. When the stud is plumb, nail the 2x brace to the block. This will square up and position the roof where it needs to be. The rest of the rafters can now be installed, alternating from one side to the other, pulling the rafters tight to the wall and bringing the plumb cut to the top of the ridge. By alternating from one side to the other the ridge will stay straight. If one side is installed all at once, the weight will push on the ridge creating a bow. This will make it tough to straighten when the other side is put on.

After the roof is framed, collar ties, fascia boards, and overhangs are put on. With those items in place, the plywood can be put on. Frame in the gable ends and your ready for shingles.

Mike Merisko (c) 2006
http://www.sawkerfs.com

Framing a Gable Roof

Monday, July 18, 2011

A Brief Introduction to Carpentry

The art of carpentry has been practiced for thousands of years. It has been referenced in the Bible and today is the branch of many home revising shows. It is a craft that features wide ranging expressions of artistry. It is typically related with those things constructed of wood and, as such, can lend itself to many areas of specialization. Just look around any lowly house and you can get a sense for the assorted forms and levels of expertise involved in the completed work. A close carpenter is the one responsible for cabinets, furniture, and any item where precision and joinery are required. Siding, patio decks and even safe bet roofs normally fall under the purview of the close carpenter.

Before the close carpenter gets his or her assignments in the house, the work of the framing carpenter must first be completed. If you guessed that the framer is the one responsible for erecting a building's skeletal framework, you would be correct. She or he must also make sure that the house is level, square and plumb. The trim carpenter is the one that puts the sizzle in basic work. His work is normally ornamental in nature, adding an element of artistry to such things as railings, window casings, mantels, and baseboards. Further, she normally specializes in moldings and trim.

Carpentry Framing

Carpentry jobs are not puny to buildings. You can see the work of carpenters in a shipyard or on a movie set or theater stage, constructing temporary landscape sets. Even musical instruments cannot leave the scholar hands of a carpenter. A luthier is a carpenter who specializes in constructing or repairing stringed instruments. The world of carpentry can be an entertaining and fulfilling profession. It offers prospective carpenters an opportunity for artistic expression while also providing a keen sense of pleasure and accomplishment when they have completed building something with their tools, hands and imagination.

A Brief Introduction to Carpentry

The art of carpentry has been practiced for thousands of years. It has been referenced in the Bible and today is the branch of many home revising shows. It is a craft that features wide ranging expressions of artistry. It is typically related with those things constructed of wood and, as such, can lend itself to many areas of specialization. Just look around any lowly house and you can get a sense for the assorted forms and levels of expertise involved in the completed work. A close carpenter is the one responsible for cabinets, furniture, and any item where precision and joinery are required. Siding, patio decks and even safe bet roofs normally fall under the purview of the close carpenter.

Before the close carpenter gets his or her assignments in the house, the work of the framing carpenter must first be completed. If you guessed that the framer is the one responsible for erecting a building's skeletal framework, you would be correct. She or he must also make sure that the house is level, square and plumb. The trim carpenter is the one that puts the sizzle in basic work. His work is normally ornamental in nature, adding an element of artistry to such things as railings, window casings, mantels, and baseboards. Further, she normally specializes in moldings and trim.

Carpentry Framing

Carpentry jobs are not puny to buildings. You can see the work of carpenters in a shipyard or on a movie set or theater stage, constructing temporary landscape sets. Even musical instruments cannot leave the scholar hands of a carpenter. A luthier is a carpenter who specializes in constructing or repairing stringed instruments. The world of carpentry can be an entertaining and fulfilling profession. It offers prospective carpenters an opportunity for artistic expression while also providing a keen sense of pleasure and accomplishment when they have completed building something with their tools, hands and imagination.

A Brief Introduction to Carpentry

Sunday, July 17, 2011

Easy Carpentry Tips For Beginners

Carpentry is truly a skill that one possesses in working with woods. A carpenter uses different types of tools to make these things. If you are new to this, and are getting going with some wood working, you may want a few starter pointers. Let's take a look at some pointers about being the best carpenter out there.

One of the biggest things that a carpenter can do is measure twice. Always double check your work. It wastes time and resources if you make a mistake in your measurements and have to cut something again. You've heard the saying, measure twice, cut once and it makes sense. Some of the tools needed are a 90° angle, and laser tape measure doesn't hurt either.

Carpentry Framing

Using a easy saw can be one of the most efficient tools in production sure that you cut right lines. When it comes to beginners, this is one of the most used tools. When dealing with curves, a coping saw is used. Depending on your skill level, galvanic tools like saws and cutters and may not be the best option. Protection is important, and until you are more experienced you may want to use manual tools. You may want to think taking a Protection class or talking to your neighborhood store tool specialist to get help.

When it comes to drilling, there are many tools to select from. Most are power operated. The differences come in the power of the drill, and the features. Most habitancy off for cordless drills these days. A more high-priced cordless drills have stronger batteries and great borders. You will also need a good hammer that is balanced for you. Depending on how many projects you take on, a nail gun may be right for you.

When getting started on a project, if you're going to work with wood, take the time to pick it carefully, having the wrong would weather being too soft, crooked, or having too many knots in it can be a major problem. Check to make sure that the wood is true and that the wood is not green.

Once you have chosen the exact wood, and have selected and purchased the appropriate tools, you can start your first carpentry project. Again, don't forget the key things. measure twice and cut once. Make the appropriate marks before you cut, and think Protection at all times. Take the time to select the right wood, and start with a plan and you should do fine.

Easy Carpentry Tips For Beginners

Carpentry is truly a skill that one possesses in working with woods. A carpenter uses different types of tools to make these things. If you are new to this, and are getting going with some wood working, you may want a few starter pointers. Let's take a look at some pointers about being the best carpenter out there.

One of the biggest things that a carpenter can do is measure twice. Always double check your work. It wastes time and resources if you make a mistake in your measurements and have to cut something again. You've heard the saying, measure twice, cut once and it makes sense. Some of the tools needed are a 90° angle, and laser tape measure doesn't hurt either.

Carpentry Framing

Using a easy saw can be one of the most efficient tools in production sure that you cut right lines. When it comes to beginners, this is one of the most used tools. When dealing with curves, a coping saw is used. Depending on your skill level, galvanic tools like saws and cutters and may not be the best option. Protection is important, and until you are more experienced you may want to use manual tools. You may want to think taking a Protection class or talking to your neighborhood store tool specialist to get help.

When it comes to drilling, there are many tools to select from. Most are power operated. The differences come in the power of the drill, and the features. Most habitancy off for cordless drills these days. A more high-priced cordless drills have stronger batteries and great borders. You will also need a good hammer that is balanced for you. Depending on how many projects you take on, a nail gun may be right for you.

When getting started on a project, if you're going to work with wood, take the time to pick it carefully, having the wrong would weather being too soft, crooked, or having too many knots in it can be a major problem. Check to make sure that the wood is true and that the wood is not green.

Once you have chosen the exact wood, and have selected and purchased the appropriate tools, you can start your first carpentry project. Again, don't forget the key things. measure twice and cut once. Make the appropriate marks before you cut, and think Protection at all times. Take the time to select the right wood, and start with a plan and you should do fine.

Easy Carpentry Tips For Beginners

Saturday, July 16, 2011

Carpentry - A Creative vocation Field

Carpentry schools furnish the scholastic background needed in the job. Carpentry is a satisfying and creative work field. Carpenters who remodel homes and other structures need a broad range of carpentry skills because they must be able to achieve any of the many different tasks these jobs may require.

Carpentry

Carpentry Framing

To meet the training needs of persons concerned in becoming a Carpenter, Los Angeles Trade Technical College offers a Carpentry connect in Science degree and a Carpentry building Technologies company in Arts degree as well as their equivalent Certificates of Completion. The Carpentry branch offers a agenda of study which, when successfully completed, provides an perfect background for those desiring to enter the Apprenticeship Program. Preservation Carpentry facilities are well fine for lectures and small building projects. The machine and model-building shop is shared with the Carpentry program.

Carpenters learn their trade straight through formal and informal training programs. These programs integrate on-the-job training with associated classroom instruction. Apprenticeship programs are regularly 3 to 4 years in length, but vary with the apprentice's skill. The estimate of apprenticeship programs is limited, however, so only a small proportion of carpenters learn their trade straight through these programs, mostly those working for industrial and industrial building contractors. You can also find data on the registered apprenticeship ideas with links to State apprenticeship programs on the U.

Construction

Some large-scale building may be of an exactitude and artistry that it is classed as quit carpentry. A formwork carpenter creates the shuttering and false work used in concrete construction. Some employers, particularly large nonresidential building contractors with union membership, offer employees formal apprenticeships. Carpenters regularly have greater opportunities than most other building workers to become general building supervisors because carpenters are exposed to the entire building process.

Some of the ask for carpenters, however, will be offset by foreseen, productivity gains resulting from the increasing use of prefabricated components and improved fasteners and tools. New and improved tools, equipment, techniques, and materials also have vastly increased carpenter versatility. Carpenters risk injury working with sharp or rough materials, using sharp tools and power equipment, and working in situations where they might slip or fall. The tools that make up devotee Carpenter consist of surveying, trim, wall framing, stairs and general spacing.

Woodworking primarily involves assembling, constructing, designing, finishing, refinishing, repairing, and/or restoring products made of wood, wood substances, or wood substitutes such as cabinets, furniture, interior finishes, millwork, stairs, and assorted fixtures, among others. Carpenters also build tunnel bracing, or brattices, in private passageways and mines to control the circulation of air straight through the passageways and to worksites. Carpenters are employed throughout the country in practically every society and make up the largest building trades occupation.

Entrance into the carpentry trade is regularly obtained straight through serving a four-year indentured apprenticeship. The areas with the largest citizen increases will also furnish the best job opportunities for carpenters and apprenticeship opportunities for persons seeking to enter carpentry.

Carpentry - A Creative vocation Field

Carpentry schools furnish the scholastic background needed in the job. Carpentry is a satisfying and creative work field. Carpenters who remodel homes and other structures need a broad range of carpentry skills because they must be able to achieve any of the many different tasks these jobs may require.

Carpentry

Carpentry Framing

To meet the training needs of persons concerned in becoming a Carpenter, Los Angeles Trade Technical College offers a Carpentry connect in Science degree and a Carpentry building Technologies company in Arts degree as well as their equivalent Certificates of Completion. The Carpentry branch offers a agenda of study which, when successfully completed, provides an perfect background for those desiring to enter the Apprenticeship Program. Preservation Carpentry facilities are well fine for lectures and small building projects. The machine and model-building shop is shared with the Carpentry program.

Carpenters learn their trade straight through formal and informal training programs. These programs integrate on-the-job training with associated classroom instruction. Apprenticeship programs are regularly 3 to 4 years in length, but vary with the apprentice's skill. The estimate of apprenticeship programs is limited, however, so only a small proportion of carpenters learn their trade straight through these programs, mostly those working for industrial and industrial building contractors. You can also find data on the registered apprenticeship ideas with links to State apprenticeship programs on the U.

Construction

Some large-scale building may be of an exactitude and artistry that it is classed as quit carpentry. A formwork carpenter creates the shuttering and false work used in concrete construction. Some employers, particularly large nonresidential building contractors with union membership, offer employees formal apprenticeships. Carpenters regularly have greater opportunities than most other building workers to become general building supervisors because carpenters are exposed to the entire building process.

Some of the ask for carpenters, however, will be offset by foreseen, productivity gains resulting from the increasing use of prefabricated components and improved fasteners and tools. New and improved tools, equipment, techniques, and materials also have vastly increased carpenter versatility. Carpenters risk injury working with sharp or rough materials, using sharp tools and power equipment, and working in situations where they might slip or fall. The tools that make up devotee Carpenter consist of surveying, trim, wall framing, stairs and general spacing.

Woodworking primarily involves assembling, constructing, designing, finishing, refinishing, repairing, and/or restoring products made of wood, wood substances, or wood substitutes such as cabinets, furniture, interior finishes, millwork, stairs, and assorted fixtures, among others. Carpenters also build tunnel bracing, or brattices, in private passageways and mines to control the circulation of air straight through the passageways and to worksites. Carpenters are employed throughout the country in practically every society and make up the largest building trades occupation.

Entrance into the carpentry trade is regularly obtained straight through serving a four-year indentured apprenticeship. The areas with the largest citizen increases will also furnish the best job opportunities for carpenters and apprenticeship opportunities for persons seeking to enter carpentry.

Carpentry - A Creative vocation Field

Friday, July 15, 2011

The Carpentry Skills Acquired In A High School Vocational schedule

High school is a time to focus on what type of work to pursue upon graduation, and vocational training programs can supply early exposure to a singular field of work. For those concerned in carpentry, hands-on vocational training can prove beneficial in jump-starting such a career. When learning is difficult, the trainee may wish to think a program that offers the tutor saliba learning method for vo-tech students. Although very few schools in the country are easily using the program, teaching materials are available for auditory, oral and optical learning methods.

The woodworking courses offered in a vocational school will cover some separate areas of knowledge that carpentry requires. Assorted types of wood each possess separate qualities; maple, oak, pine and walnut, for example, each have their own clear and negative aspects in clear areas of use. Students must also learn how to identify the types of wood, and work with artificial compounds such as particle board and plywood. Also the wood itself are the tools used to manipulate it. Drills, clamps, chisels, handsaws and power tools all want a clear degree of skill to use effectively, and tool maintenance and safety will be discussed.

Carpentry Framing

Students will learn the allowable method of gluing and clamping wood, and how separate kinds of joints are held together, which involves a good knowledge of Assorted construction materials and fasteners. How to close a wood project by sanding, staining and painting is also outlined.

Another prominent part in carpentry involves learning to read blueprints and construction drawings, as they are the foundation of any construction project. While this was previously only easy for optical students to learn, tutor saliba makes it potential for students to also learn straight through speaking and hearing. Students are taught how to understand construction codes and layout, and the theory of stair, roof, and wall framing. A general summary of the carpentry trade enterprise is often discussed as well, and students will learn the significance of strong math skills, good hand-eye coordination and staying physically fit.

Once the basics are covered, students may involve themselves in carpentry projects of varying complexity. This may be anyone from a small cabinet to a large bookshelf, for example, and gives them the ability to troubleshoot and custom solving problems. Among the many key skills acquired will be furniture construction and repair, lock changing, cabinet installation, and staircase construction. A trainee may take the opportunity at this point to focus on a singular area of interest, such as new home construction or remodeling.

Many trade schools offer work-study programs or internships to supply on-the-job training, and apprenticeships are also available for students wishing to learn exact techniques that involve extra tools and machinery. This will help prepare them for a full-time work in the constantly growing field of carpentry, which can involve long hours of corporal work, often outside. In a extremely competitive industry, completing a vocational program helps give carpentry students an benefit when entering the workforce.

The Carpentry Skills Acquired In A High School Vocational schedule

High school is a time to focus on what type of work to pursue upon graduation, and vocational training programs can supply early exposure to a singular field of work. For those concerned in carpentry, hands-on vocational training can prove beneficial in jump-starting such a career. When learning is difficult, the trainee may wish to think a program that offers the tutor saliba learning method for vo-tech students. Although very few schools in the country are easily using the program, teaching materials are available for auditory, oral and optical learning methods.

The woodworking courses offered in a vocational school will cover some separate areas of knowledge that carpentry requires. Assorted types of wood each possess separate qualities; maple, oak, pine and walnut, for example, each have their own clear and negative aspects in clear areas of use. Students must also learn how to identify the types of wood, and work with artificial compounds such as particle board and plywood. Also the wood itself are the tools used to manipulate it. Drills, clamps, chisels, handsaws and power tools all want a clear degree of skill to use effectively, and tool maintenance and safety will be discussed.

Carpentry Framing

Students will learn the allowable method of gluing and clamping wood, and how separate kinds of joints are held together, which involves a good knowledge of Assorted construction materials and fasteners. How to close a wood project by sanding, staining and painting is also outlined.

Another prominent part in carpentry involves learning to read blueprints and construction drawings, as they are the foundation of any construction project. While this was previously only easy for optical students to learn, tutor saliba makes it potential for students to also learn straight through speaking and hearing. Students are taught how to understand construction codes and layout, and the theory of stair, roof, and wall framing. A general summary of the carpentry trade enterprise is often discussed as well, and students will learn the significance of strong math skills, good hand-eye coordination and staying physically fit.

Once the basics are covered, students may involve themselves in carpentry projects of varying complexity. This may be anyone from a small cabinet to a large bookshelf, for example, and gives them the ability to troubleshoot and custom solving problems. Among the many key skills acquired will be furniture construction and repair, lock changing, cabinet installation, and staircase construction. A trainee may take the opportunity at this point to focus on a singular area of interest, such as new home construction or remodeling.

Many trade schools offer work-study programs or internships to supply on-the-job training, and apprenticeships are also available for students wishing to learn exact techniques that involve extra tools and machinery. This will help prepare them for a full-time work in the constantly growing field of carpentry, which can involve long hours of corporal work, often outside. In a extremely competitive industry, completing a vocational program helps give carpentry students an benefit when entering the workforce.

The Carpentry Skills Acquired In A High School Vocational schedule

Thursday, July 14, 2011

5 Reasons Why Should You Use a portable Air Compressor With Pneumatic Tools

My husband is a do-it-yourself kind of guy, and this is great for many reasons. For one, things get done colse to the house. I noticed this when were first married. It was about 10:00 pm at night, and I noticed that something needed doing in the bathroom. I made a criticism that we should do that soon, and he said, "how about right now." I was very impressed! My Dad takes forever to get things done. And,no, it was not just because we were newly weds, things still get done speedily and competently.

The second great thing about marrying a Diy kind of guy, is that you all the time know what to get him for birthdays and Christmas, a power tool. Originally, it was basic, corded power tools, then it was cordless tools that he preferred. Then, for an outdoor project (building a fence), he got a transported air compressor and a nail gun (we call it a ka-chinker) and it was great! From then on, new tools had to be air tools.

Carpentry Framing

Now, as I learned about air tools, I discovered many advantages to using one with a transported air compressor.

 
They are a good value. Though you have to put out some money for the transported air compressor, often air tools (or pneumatic tools) are less costly than cordless or corded power tools. Also, pneumatic tools often last longer because they do not have a small motor that can burn out. Instead, they are drawing their power from the larger motor of the air compressor. Mentioning above that air tools do not have their own motors, brings up another advantage. No motor means they weigh less. Though tools are often used by big, strong men, more can get done more favorably if the tool is smaller and lighter, it makes the tool easier to handle, allowing for good efficiency. Since pneumatic tools draws on the larger motor of the transported air compressor, they can deliver more torque and higher revolutions per dinky than their electric counterparts. This allows your do-it-yourselfer to work more speedily and effectively. It is surely easy to change from one tool to another, production your transported air compressor very versatile. Also using it with tools, it is great for inflating numerous items colse to your home. So, the use of the air compressor for other things is an advantage in itself. You don't have to worry about an electric cord getting in the way, or if it is long enough to reach the project. This also means that you avoid the hassle of working with a long postponement cord.

There are many pneumatic tools available. This includes drills, hammers, cutting tools, grinders, impact wrenches and hatchets, sanders and polishers, spray guns, grease and cleaning guns, staplers and nailers and more. production the change from electric or cordless tools to air tools is simple, and you do not have to do it all at once. Start with purchasing a transported air compressor and one tool that you need or use often. Then, as you need new tools or want to replace older ones, just purchase the new tool in pneumatic form. I don't think that it will take long before you agree that air tools with a transported air compressor is the way to go!

5 Reasons Why Should You Use a portable Air Compressor With Pneumatic Tools

My husband is a do-it-yourself kind of guy, and this is great for many reasons. For one, things get done colse to the house. I noticed this when were first married. It was about 10:00 pm at night, and I noticed that something needed doing in the bathroom. I made a criticism that we should do that soon, and he said, "how about right now." I was very impressed! My Dad takes forever to get things done. And,no, it was not just because we were newly weds, things still get done speedily and competently.

The second great thing about marrying a Diy kind of guy, is that you all the time know what to get him for birthdays and Christmas, a power tool. Originally, it was basic, corded power tools, then it was cordless tools that he preferred. Then, for an outdoor project (building a fence), he got a transported air compressor and a nail gun (we call it a ka-chinker) and it was great! From then on, new tools had to be air tools.

Carpentry Framing

Now, as I learned about air tools, I discovered many advantages to using one with a transported air compressor.

 
They are a good value. Though you have to put out some money for the transported air compressor, often air tools (or pneumatic tools) are less costly than cordless or corded power tools. Also, pneumatic tools often last longer because they do not have a small motor that can burn out. Instead, they are drawing their power from the larger motor of the air compressor. Mentioning above that air tools do not have their own motors, brings up another advantage. No motor means they weigh less. Though tools are often used by big, strong men, more can get done more favorably if the tool is smaller and lighter, it makes the tool easier to handle, allowing for good efficiency. Since pneumatic tools draws on the larger motor of the transported air compressor, they can deliver more torque and higher revolutions per dinky than their electric counterparts. This allows your do-it-yourselfer to work more speedily and effectively. It is surely easy to change from one tool to another, production your transported air compressor very versatile. Also using it with tools, it is great for inflating numerous items colse to your home. So, the use of the air compressor for other things is an advantage in itself. You don't have to worry about an electric cord getting in the way, or if it is long enough to reach the project. This also means that you avoid the hassle of working with a long postponement cord.

There are many pneumatic tools available. This includes drills, hammers, cutting tools, grinders, impact wrenches and hatchets, sanders and polishers, spray guns, grease and cleaning guns, staplers and nailers and more. production the change from electric or cordless tools to air tools is simple, and you do not have to do it all at once. Start with purchasing a transported air compressor and one tool that you need or use often. Then, as you need new tools or want to replace older ones, just purchase the new tool in pneumatic form. I don't think that it will take long before you agree that air tools with a transported air compressor is the way to go!

5 Reasons Why Should You Use a portable Air Compressor With Pneumatic Tools

Wednesday, July 13, 2011

Basic Carpentry Tools - Best List

Here it is. Your faultless list of the basic carpentry tools that you need to be fully ready to take on any project. Get your pen and paper ready, this is a long list. The first thing you need is a good place to store your carpentry tools that keeps them safe and dry. There are many distinct ways you can do this. Some more expensive than others. A good toolbox mounted on your truck works great but can sometimes be in the way when you need to haul loads. A tool chest with a good lock is an additional one good idea. If your just working around home they even sell Rubber type chests with hinged lids, wheels and a handle. Anything that will keep your carpenter tools dry and gather will work just fine.

Let's get the pricey items out of the way first. Your going to have to have a good 7 1/4" power saw and a 100', 14 gauge extension cord to help you use it. A good 6' fiberglass step ladder will work for most jobs but it is also nice to have a 12 or 14' extension ladder. You will need an assortment of levels and squares. I'd propose 2' and 6' aluminum levels. A framing quadrilateral with rafter tables on it, a speed square, mixture square, and a sliding t-bevel.

Carpentry Framing

No list of carpenters tools is faultless without a bunch of hand tools. A 10 to 12 point hand saw. A fine toothed coping saw. Both a 16-22 oz. Framing hammer and a 16 oz. Stop hammer. A ripping chisel. A 1/2", 3/4", 1", and 1 1/2" wood chisels. A nail puller, some call it a cat's paw. Lineman's pliers, manifold tip screwdriver with both slotted and phillips bits, 35' tape measure, utility knife, chalk box. I normally get a spare bottle of both red and blue chalk. You will need some nail sets. At least a 1/16", 3/32", and 1/8". A brass scribe, a 12" adjustable wrench, and a 100' dry line will also come in handy.

Lastly, I'd round out my list of carpenter tools with some security items. You'll need a hard hat, security glasses, and hearing protection, all Ansi approved. Cotton or leather gloves, steel toed shoes, and some pull over rubber boots. You also want to get some rain gear, both pants and jacket.

Well there it is. Your short list of basic carpenter tools. Not so short is it? There are a lot more carpenters tools such as wheelbarrows, shovels, sledge hammers, drills, and distinct kinds of saws etc.. That you could still get but that's a bit past the basics. Just get the list of basic carpentry tools from above and you will be ready to go.

Basic Carpentry Tools - Best List

Here it is. Your faultless list of the basic carpentry tools that you need to be fully ready to take on any project. Get your pen and paper ready, this is a long list. The first thing you need is a good place to store your carpentry tools that keeps them safe and dry. There are many distinct ways you can do this. Some more expensive than others. A good toolbox mounted on your truck works great but can sometimes be in the way when you need to haul loads. A tool chest with a good lock is an additional one good idea. If your just working around home they even sell Rubber type chests with hinged lids, wheels and a handle. Anything that will keep your carpenter tools dry and gather will work just fine.

Let's get the pricey items out of the way first. Your going to have to have a good 7 1/4" power saw and a 100', 14 gauge extension cord to help you use it. A good 6' fiberglass step ladder will work for most jobs but it is also nice to have a 12 or 14' extension ladder. You will need an assortment of levels and squares. I'd propose 2' and 6' aluminum levels. A framing quadrilateral with rafter tables on it, a speed square, mixture square, and a sliding t-bevel.

Carpentry Framing

No list of carpenters tools is faultless without a bunch of hand tools. A 10 to 12 point hand saw. A fine toothed coping saw. Both a 16-22 oz. Framing hammer and a 16 oz. Stop hammer. A ripping chisel. A 1/2", 3/4", 1", and 1 1/2" wood chisels. A nail puller, some call it a cat's paw. Lineman's pliers, manifold tip screwdriver with both slotted and phillips bits, 35' tape measure, utility knife, chalk box. I normally get a spare bottle of both red and blue chalk. You will need some nail sets. At least a 1/16", 3/32", and 1/8". A brass scribe, a 12" adjustable wrench, and a 100' dry line will also come in handy.

Lastly, I'd round out my list of carpenter tools with some security items. You'll need a hard hat, security glasses, and hearing protection, all Ansi approved. Cotton or leather gloves, steel toed shoes, and some pull over rubber boots. You also want to get some rain gear, both pants and jacket.

Well there it is. Your short list of basic carpenter tools. Not so short is it? There are a lot more carpenters tools such as wheelbarrows, shovels, sledge hammers, drills, and distinct kinds of saws etc.. That you could still get but that's a bit past the basics. Just get the list of basic carpentry tools from above and you will be ready to go.

Basic Carpentry Tools - Best List

Tuesday, July 12, 2011

Backyard Greenhouse Plans For the Diy Enthusiast

There are many advantages to having your own personal greenhouse out back. It enables you to grow tasty fruits, vegetables, and flowers all year round. You can save hundreds of dollars by taking a Diy approach to greenhouse construction. This article outlines the dissimilar greenhouse styles, and directs you to the right backyard greenhouse plans.

Greenhouse Styles And Designs

Carpentry Framing

There are quite a few dissimilar ways to approach building a greenhouse. Most hobby gardeners won't require whatever that's too large, nor will they have the space. However, some people want to have a backyard greenhouse in order to feed their family, or even to sell produce. Below is a list of the most tasteless greenhouse designs.

1) The Victorian Greenhouse - This is a large, customary greenhouse. It looks much like a house, with 4 right walls and an angular roof. Inside are usually sets of long benches for seedlings, plants, and other flora. This produce is for serious gardeners!

2) The movable Greenhouse - If you're seeing to build something that you can move from place to place, this one is for you. You'll be able to keep an assortment of plants, but it's commonly not used to grow produce. Attach some wheels to make it very maneuverable.

3) The Lean-To Greenhouse - Most backyard greenhouse plans will include this type of design. It's a great choice if you've got diminutive space on your property. It commonly needs to lean against something solid, like your house, or even a fence.

Of course, there are plenty more greenhouse styles, but we'll be here all day if we went straight through them all!

Basic building Materials

All Diy greenhouses require some basic materials. commonly the framing is built from wood or Pvc. As far as walls go, the most effective materials are glass, polyethylene, and cloth. All good potential building plans will clarify how these materials use solar vigor to warm your plants. You will be able to buy all materials a lot economy than if you bought a pre-built greenhouse or kit.

Backyard Greenhouse Plans For the Diy Enthusiast

There are many advantages to having your own personal greenhouse out back. It enables you to grow tasty fruits, vegetables, and flowers all year round. You can save hundreds of dollars by taking a Diy approach to greenhouse construction. This article outlines the dissimilar greenhouse styles, and directs you to the right backyard greenhouse plans.

Greenhouse Styles And Designs

Carpentry Framing

There are quite a few dissimilar ways to approach building a greenhouse. Most hobby gardeners won't require whatever that's too large, nor will they have the space. However, some people want to have a backyard greenhouse in order to feed their family, or even to sell produce. Below is a list of the most tasteless greenhouse designs.

1) The Victorian Greenhouse - This is a large, customary greenhouse. It looks much like a house, with 4 right walls and an angular roof. Inside are usually sets of long benches for seedlings, plants, and other flora. This produce is for serious gardeners!

2) The movable Greenhouse - If you're seeing to build something that you can move from place to place, this one is for you. You'll be able to keep an assortment of plants, but it's commonly not used to grow produce. Attach some wheels to make it very maneuverable.

3) The Lean-To Greenhouse - Most backyard greenhouse plans will include this type of design. It's a great choice if you've got diminutive space on your property. It commonly needs to lean against something solid, like your house, or even a fence.

Of course, there are plenty more greenhouse styles, but we'll be here all day if we went straight through them all!

Basic building Materials

All Diy greenhouses require some basic materials. commonly the framing is built from wood or Pvc. As far as walls go, the most effective materials are glass, polyethylene, and cloth. All good potential building plans will clarify how these materials use solar vigor to warm your plants. You will be able to buy all materials a lot economy than if you bought a pre-built greenhouse or kit.

Backyard Greenhouse Plans For the Diy Enthusiast

Monday, July 11, 2011

How I Built A Wooden Deck Without Knowing The First Thing About Carpentry

Our house is quite new - we moved in during the summer of 2003, and since we had the house built during the year preceding that, the organery was a disaster area in the beginning. We knew we wanted a deck of some kind along the length of the house (with access from the living room), but didn't quite know what kind. After having paved a barbecue area with rocks we retrieved from the property, we decided the deck would be far too big for that kind of a project, and opted for wood. The area is at ground level, and didn't wish being attached to the house in any way, so I said - Ok, I'll do it.

Hubby was very doubtful, but we women can be persuasive, so early this spring, I went to it.

Carpentry Framing

We had ready the ground by leveling it with gravel, so the size was decided upon (3,5 x 15 meters), and the materials were purchased. 2'x4' for the foundation, and ordinary, treated terrace boards for the actual deck. Also, I needed 2'X6' for steps.

Tools are paramount. I would never have determined getting into a project like this without a proper saw - you know, the kind you can swivel and turn so it cuts the wood into any angle you choose. A level is a great help, and a right angle too. So is a rechargeable drill - a remarkable gadget!

Since I certainly knew nothing of carpentry, I had to work out for myself how to do everything, but I found that the scraps I remembered from my geometry lessons in school helped a lot. I now know why they teach kids that stuff... I spent quite some time planning the whole process, and had it pretty well worked out by the time I began.

I started by making a frame with the 2'x4'. The frame went all nearby the projected size of the deck, and in case,granted sustain for the next part of the plan - 2'x4' beams inside the frame, distanced at 60 centimeters. These were to furnish sustain for the boards, that were to be screwed on to the beams. Why 60 cms? I found (on the Internet!) that this is the ideal length between beams supporting the boards I'd chosen. 28 millimeters thick boards can take a span of 60 cms.
Once the beams were distanced correctly, I screwed the whole frame together at fairly right angles, and was ready for the next step.

I needed two steps from the deck to the terrace doors, and I didn't want them to be too small - I wanted to be able to sit on them, and I wanted them to be deep enough, so that whatever coming out of the doors with a heavy tray wouldn't stumble headlong into the scenery.
So, before beginning with the actual deck, I needed to have the foundation ready for the steps - so that it would furnish sustain both for the lowest and the top one. Two more frames were made, corresponding with the terrace doors, perfect with sustain for the beams I was going to need to sustain the steps in two levels. I used far too much wood, as it turned out!

Onwards with the deck - the boards were cut to fit onto the beams, with two screws anywhere it crossed a beam, and 4 screws anywhere one board met another one on a sustain beam. I used those slight length crosses that are used for laying tiles to keep a constant length between boards. The steps were made once I reached them with my boards - 2'x6' for the frame and beams, and boards to cover the steps. Two levels, and it turned out beautifully!

A month later (yes - with 6 kids, abundance of beasts and varying weather conditions, it did take me a month!), I had completed the terrace deck, and gained adequate trust to build a table for 12 to go with it...

Surrounded by big rocks collected on the property, loads of flowers and with a lovely view of the rolling countryside, we've enjoyed it immensely this summer, as we hopefully will in years to come.

I'm proud that I pulled it off, but most of all, I now believe even more firmly that: "You don't know what you can't do until you've tried!"

How I Built A Wooden Deck Without Knowing The First Thing About Carpentry

Our house is quite new - we moved in during the summer of 2003, and since we had the house built during the year preceding that, the organery was a disaster area in the beginning. We knew we wanted a deck of some kind along the length of the house (with access from the living room), but didn't quite know what kind. After having paved a barbecue area with rocks we retrieved from the property, we decided the deck would be far too big for that kind of a project, and opted for wood. The area is at ground level, and didn't wish being attached to the house in any way, so I said - Ok, I'll do it.

Hubby was very doubtful, but we women can be persuasive, so early this spring, I went to it.

Carpentry Framing

We had ready the ground by leveling it with gravel, so the size was decided upon (3,5 x 15 meters), and the materials were purchased. 2'x4' for the foundation, and ordinary, treated terrace boards for the actual deck. Also, I needed 2'X6' for steps.

Tools are paramount. I would never have determined getting into a project like this without a proper saw - you know, the kind you can swivel and turn so it cuts the wood into any angle you choose. A level is a great help, and a right angle too. So is a rechargeable drill - a remarkable gadget!

Since I certainly knew nothing of carpentry, I had to work out for myself how to do everything, but I found that the scraps I remembered from my geometry lessons in school helped a lot. I now know why they teach kids that stuff... I spent quite some time planning the whole process, and had it pretty well worked out by the time I began.

I started by making a frame with the 2'x4'. The frame went all nearby the projected size of the deck, and in case,granted sustain for the next part of the plan - 2'x4' beams inside the frame, distanced at 60 centimeters. These were to furnish sustain for the boards, that were to be screwed on to the beams. Why 60 cms? I found (on the Internet!) that this is the ideal length between beams supporting the boards I'd chosen. 28 millimeters thick boards can take a span of 60 cms.
Once the beams were distanced correctly, I screwed the whole frame together at fairly right angles, and was ready for the next step.

I needed two steps from the deck to the terrace doors, and I didn't want them to be too small - I wanted to be able to sit on them, and I wanted them to be deep enough, so that whatever coming out of the doors with a heavy tray wouldn't stumble headlong into the scenery.
So, before beginning with the actual deck, I needed to have the foundation ready for the steps - so that it would furnish sustain both for the lowest and the top one. Two more frames were made, corresponding with the terrace doors, perfect with sustain for the beams I was going to need to sustain the steps in two levels. I used far too much wood, as it turned out!

Onwards with the deck - the boards were cut to fit onto the beams, with two screws anywhere it crossed a beam, and 4 screws anywhere one board met another one on a sustain beam. I used those slight length crosses that are used for laying tiles to keep a constant length between boards. The steps were made once I reached them with my boards - 2'x6' for the frame and beams, and boards to cover the steps. Two levels, and it turned out beautifully!

A month later (yes - with 6 kids, abundance of beasts and varying weather conditions, it did take me a month!), I had completed the terrace deck, and gained adequate trust to build a table for 12 to go with it...

Surrounded by big rocks collected on the property, loads of flowers and with a lovely view of the rolling countryside, we've enjoyed it immensely this summer, as we hopefully will in years to come.

I'm proud that I pulled it off, but most of all, I now believe even more firmly that: "You don't know what you can't do until you've tried!"

How I Built A Wooden Deck Without Knowing The First Thing About Carpentry

Saturday, July 9, 2011

garage Door Rough Openings

One of the most confusing aspects of homebuilding can be the
rough opening for an overhead stable door. It is one of the
most frequent questions I am asked.

The rough opening for a stable door, naturally put, is the
actual size of the door itself. For example, if the garage
door is a 7'0" x 16'0", then that is the size the rough
opening should be framed to. This is also what the opening
in the foundation should be. The studs and cripples will
then stop right at the edge of the foundation.

Carpentry Framing

The foundation ordinarily drops 8" to allow the concrete floor
to be poured over the top of it. This has to be accounted
for when figuring the distance of the cripples to get the
right height of the overhead door header. ordinarily the
floor is poured 3" below the top of the foundation wall. If
the overhead door is 7' then 4 and 1/2" is subtracted from
that height. This is the 3" drop and 1 1/2" for the bottom
plate. Your total cripple distance would be 6' 7 1/2".

Once the floor is poured, the door jambs can be installed.
The width of these jamb pieces vary with the size of the
wall and what the wall is ended with (brick, siding,
dryvit, etc). The header piece is installed first, then the
two side pieces. These go from the header to the finished
concrete floor. Once the jambs are in the door can be
installed. With the door installed the door stops are then
put on whether with or without weatherstripping.

If you know the door size of your overhead door, you know
the rough opening. From there its determining where to start
and stop your framing.

(c) Mike Merisko http://www.sawkerfs.com

garage Door Rough Openings

One of the most confusing aspects of homebuilding can be the
rough opening for an overhead stable door. It is one of the
most frequent questions I am asked.

The rough opening for a stable door, naturally put, is the
actual size of the door itself. For example, if the garage
door is a 7'0" x 16'0", then that is the size the rough
opening should be framed to. This is also what the opening
in the foundation should be. The studs and cripples will
then stop right at the edge of the foundation.

Carpentry Framing

The foundation ordinarily drops 8" to allow the concrete floor
to be poured over the top of it. This has to be accounted
for when figuring the distance of the cripples to get the
right height of the overhead door header. ordinarily the
floor is poured 3" below the top of the foundation wall. If
the overhead door is 7' then 4 and 1/2" is subtracted from
that height. This is the 3" drop and 1 1/2" for the bottom
plate. Your total cripple distance would be 6' 7 1/2".

Once the floor is poured, the door jambs can be installed.
The width of these jamb pieces vary with the size of the
wall and what the wall is ended with (brick, siding,
dryvit, etc). The header piece is installed first, then the
two side pieces. These go from the header to the finished
concrete floor. Once the jambs are in the door can be
installed. With the door installed the door stops are then
put on whether with or without weatherstripping.

If you know the door size of your overhead door, you know
the rough opening. From there its determining where to start
and stop your framing.

(c) Mike Merisko http://www.sawkerfs.com

garage Door Rough Openings

Friday, July 8, 2011

Installing a Roof? - The Basic Steps

If you're looking for information on installing a roof, you've come to the right place. Although every step doesn't apply to every project, here is an summary of the basics...

Installing a Roof: Step #1 - Planning
Who's going to do the work?What type of roofing will you install?When will you do the work?Where will you get the roofing materials?Why select one type of roofing over another?How will you tiptoe with the work?
Installing a Roof: Step #2 - Estimating
Create a "birds-eye" sketch of the roof. Measure the slope of the roof. Measure the length of every hip, ridge, valley, eave and rake. Measure the rafter length of each roof section. Determine size and type of pipes, vents and other flashings required. Take "before" pictures. Calculate the square footage of the roof area.
Installing a Roof: Step #3 - Purchasing
Create a list of materials needed. Get at least three quotes for material prices. Order the materials. Receive delivery and loading of the materials. Purchase or rent any extra tools required.
Installing a Roof: Step #4 - For Roofovers
Determine that the existing roof has no more than two layers. Determine that the health of the existing roof can accommodate a roofover. Install new drip edge. Install new valley metal. Install new gooseneck vents and pipe flashings. Remove hips and ridges.
Installing a Roof: Step #5 - For Tear Offs
Remove the old roofing down to the bare wood. Remove all protruding fasteners.
Installing a Roof: Step #6 - Carpentry
Repair any deteriorated sheathing, framing and/or fascia. Renail roof sheathing as needed to meet code. Cut out ridge vents slots as needed.
Installing a Roof: Step #7 - Underlayment
Install underlayment over whole roof deck. Temporarily seal all vents, pipes and other flashings.
Installing a Roof: Step #8 - For Flat Roofs
Remove existing roof down to the bare wood. Repair any deteriorated wood. Install tapered system as needed. Install base sheet, with nail pattern per code. Install self-adhering mid-ply. Install and prime drip edge and flashings. Have "In-Progress" Inspection Install self-adhering cap sheet.
Installing a Roof: Step #9 - Flashing
Tack on the drip edge with 3" minimum lap. Check appearance from ground. Nail off drip edge, with nails no more than 6" apart. Install valley metal and wall flashings. Install new gooseneck vents and pipe flashings. Have "Dry-in" Inspection.
Installing a Roof: Step #10 - Layout
Measure for vertical and horizontal lines. Chalk red layout lines on underlayment.
Installing a Roof: Step #11 - Shingle
Install "ice and water shield" where required. Install starter strips. Install field shingles. Install cap shingles on hips and ridges.
Installing a Roof: Step #12 - Ventilation
Layout ridge vent slots. Cut out slots. Caulk colse to slots with flashing cement. Install ridge vents with corrosion-resistant screws and grommeted washers.
Installing a Roof: Step #13 - Cleanup and Final Inspection
Remove any debris from roof and gutters. Clean up ground. Haul away debris. Return any leftover materials. Take "after" pictures. Have Final Inspection.

Carpentry Framing

Installing a Roof? - The Basic Steps

If you're looking for information on installing a roof, you've come to the right place. Although every step doesn't apply to every project, here is an summary of the basics...

Installing a Roof: Step #1 - Planning
Who's going to do the work?What type of roofing will you install?When will you do the work?Where will you get the roofing materials?Why select one type of roofing over another?How will you tiptoe with the work?
Installing a Roof: Step #2 - Estimating
Create a "birds-eye" sketch of the roof. Measure the slope of the roof. Measure the length of every hip, ridge, valley, eave and rake. Measure the rafter length of each roof section. Determine size and type of pipes, vents and other flashings required. Take "before" pictures. Calculate the square footage of the roof area.
Installing a Roof: Step #3 - Purchasing
Create a list of materials needed. Get at least three quotes for material prices. Order the materials. Receive delivery and loading of the materials. Purchase or rent any extra tools required.
Installing a Roof: Step #4 - For Roofovers
Determine that the existing roof has no more than two layers. Determine that the health of the existing roof can accommodate a roofover. Install new drip edge. Install new valley metal. Install new gooseneck vents and pipe flashings. Remove hips and ridges.
Installing a Roof: Step #5 - For Tear Offs
Remove the old roofing down to the bare wood. Remove all protruding fasteners.
Installing a Roof: Step #6 - Carpentry
Repair any deteriorated sheathing, framing and/or fascia. Renail roof sheathing as needed to meet code. Cut out ridge vents slots as needed.
Installing a Roof: Step #7 - Underlayment
Install underlayment over whole roof deck. Temporarily seal all vents, pipes and other flashings.
Installing a Roof: Step #8 - For Flat Roofs
Remove existing roof down to the bare wood. Repair any deteriorated wood. Install tapered system as needed. Install base sheet, with nail pattern per code. Install self-adhering mid-ply. Install and prime drip edge and flashings. Have "In-Progress" Inspection Install self-adhering cap sheet.
Installing a Roof: Step #9 - Flashing
Tack on the drip edge with 3" minimum lap. Check appearance from ground. Nail off drip edge, with nails no more than 6" apart. Install valley metal and wall flashings. Install new gooseneck vents and pipe flashings. Have "Dry-in" Inspection.
Installing a Roof: Step #10 - Layout
Measure for vertical and horizontal lines. Chalk red layout lines on underlayment.
Installing a Roof: Step #11 - Shingle
Install "ice and water shield" where required. Install starter strips. Install field shingles. Install cap shingles on hips and ridges.
Installing a Roof: Step #12 - Ventilation
Layout ridge vent slots. Cut out slots. Caulk colse to slots with flashing cement. Install ridge vents with corrosion-resistant screws and grommeted washers.
Installing a Roof: Step #13 - Cleanup and Final Inspection
Remove any debris from roof and gutters. Clean up ground. Haul away debris. Return any leftover materials. Take "after" pictures. Have Final Inspection.

Carpentry Framing

Installing a Roof? - The Basic Steps

Thursday, July 7, 2011

building Headers

One of the most foremost components in homebuilding
construction is the header. When framed in a wall, headers
span the spaces above doors and windows and bear the weight
of floors, ceilings and roofs above them. They are also used
in interior walls for doorways and where more open spaces
are desired between rooms.

Depending on the bearing load above an opening, headers can
be constructed of 2x4's on up to 2x14's or microlams. In a
standard 2x4 wall these elements are doubled up with a 1/2"
spacer between them and nailed together with 16d nails on
both sides. In homebuilding, the most base size headers
are normally 2x10 or 2x12.

Carpentry Framing

Most headers for doors and windows are cut 3" longer than
the width of the rough opening. In a suitable wall, a 2x10
or 2x12 header is normally nailed to the top plate. Next,
2x4's are nailed to the top plate and into the ends of the
header. Next two by (2x) cripples are nailed inside these
studs and under the header. These 2x4's are cut to the
height of the door or window. If it is a window, a 2x4 sill
is nailed to the bottoms of these cripples. The cripple is
then prolonged below the sill to the lowest plate. This
transfers the load from above the window to the floor and
onto the foundation.

For an example, lets say we are construction a header in a 2x4
wall for a 36" wide rough opening. Take 2 pieces of header
material (2x10, 2x12 etc.) and cut them to 39". This allows
for the thickness of the 2x4 cripples(3"). Next cut a piece
of 1/2" plywood slightly less than the width and distance of
the header. This is to keep it from hanging into the opening
and to keep it away from framing members. Sandwich the 1/2"
plywood spacer between the header material. Make sure to
crown the 2x's with the crown up. Before nailing the header
pieces together make sure the ends and lowest are flush.
Nail together with 16d nails, 3 nails top to bottom, 16
inches on town from one end to the other.

Rough openings are normally known well in expand of the jobs
start. Headers can be built before any framing even begins.
When construction headers the use of a framing nailer can make
the task go faster and save wear and tear on ones arm.

Mike Merisko (C) 2006

http://www.sawkerfs.com

building Headers

One of the most foremost components in homebuilding
construction is the header. When framed in a wall, headers
span the spaces above doors and windows and bear the weight
of floors, ceilings and roofs above them. They are also used
in interior walls for doorways and where more open spaces
are desired between rooms.

Depending on the bearing load above an opening, headers can
be constructed of 2x4's on up to 2x14's or microlams. In a
standard 2x4 wall these elements are doubled up with a 1/2"
spacer between them and nailed together with 16d nails on
both sides. In homebuilding, the most base size headers
are normally 2x10 or 2x12.

Carpentry Framing

Most headers for doors and windows are cut 3" longer than
the width of the rough opening. In a suitable wall, a 2x10
or 2x12 header is normally nailed to the top plate. Next,
2x4's are nailed to the top plate and into the ends of the
header. Next two by (2x) cripples are nailed inside these
studs and under the header. These 2x4's are cut to the
height of the door or window. If it is a window, a 2x4 sill
is nailed to the bottoms of these cripples. The cripple is
then prolonged below the sill to the lowest plate. This
transfers the load from above the window to the floor and
onto the foundation.

For an example, lets say we are construction a header in a 2x4
wall for a 36" wide rough opening. Take 2 pieces of header
material (2x10, 2x12 etc.) and cut them to 39". This allows
for the thickness of the 2x4 cripples(3"). Next cut a piece
of 1/2" plywood slightly less than the width and distance of
the header. This is to keep it from hanging into the opening
and to keep it away from framing members. Sandwich the 1/2"
plywood spacer between the header material. Make sure to
crown the 2x's with the crown up. Before nailing the header
pieces together make sure the ends and lowest are flush.
Nail together with 16d nails, 3 nails top to bottom, 16
inches on town from one end to the other.

Rough openings are normally known well in expand of the jobs
start. Headers can be built before any framing even begins.
When construction headers the use of a framing nailer can make
the task go faster and save wear and tear on ones arm.

Mike Merisko (C) 2006

http://www.sawkerfs.com

building Headers

Wednesday, July 6, 2011

Six Tips on How to Build a Basement Bar in Your Home

Many of you may have a miniature basement in your home. Some use it as their laundry area. Some use it as their mini gym. Others use it as an prolongation room for house guests. But what if none of these ideas draw your attention? Yet you cannot get over the fact that your basement is not being used to its maximum potential. Then you realized that whenever you have huge celebrations at home, your living room is just not enough. Then you start reasoning why not convert your vacuous basement into a bar? Bingo! So here are a few tips for you on how to build a basement bar in your home.

1. Visualize - Visualize your idea of a basement bar in your mind. This should be a good starting point on how to build a basement bar. Before whatever else, you got to imagine how it is going to look like. Draw it on a sheet of paper. Go down to your basement and outline out which angle you want to put the bar.

Carpentry Framing

2. The Plan - Make a basement bar checklist. After you got a basement drawing in your sketch pad, you should be able to imagine the materials and tools to use in setting it up. Other than wood, you should be able to see things like electrical wiring, lighting fixtures, framing, plumbing, and all other things you can see straight through in your sketch.

3. Inspiration - Check out your friends' basement bars. Supposing you still do not have a clear view of what needs to think in this project. You may want to visit your friends who have basement bars. And do not ever forget to ask them pointers in how to build a basement bar. That is probably one of the most dependable help you could get. For sure, your friends would be more than willing to share their experience.

4. Basement Bar Photos - Check out home manufacture magazines. This medium is someone else source of ideas in how to build a basement bar. The thing is that your plans of realizing this project only happens when you have your thought clear. These types of magazines help you imagine what you hope to perform with your basement bar because they show pictures. This is a big benefit especially if your grades in art class were very low.

5. The Right Materials - Materials to use. Yes of course you got to know this. In the planning stage, materials and labor cost are commonly what determines a project's cost. At this point, it is not enough to just know the basics how to build a basement bar. Extra knowledge is a very prominent factor as well.

6. Supplies and equipment. Base sense and touch will tell you that when you see a bar, there is all the time liquor and most often music. Although this can be thought of in details when your bar is roughly finished, it may help to contain this in your preparations. Maybe know a miniature bit about what brand of wine, brandy, or whatever liquor you know that can suit your taste. Maybe your preference has a lot to do with the mood you set in your bar. Then of course knowing a miniature bit about music tool can lead you to understand what type of speakers you need to install. Acoustic insulation is also a consideration if you want music piped in to your basement bar.

Now that you have the manufacture plan listed out for your miniature project, it is time to work on it. The good thing about this is that you can do it yourself. If you have no background in carpentry or interior designing, this is a good time to learn. Then maybe, in the future, you might want to share your experience. You might want to return the favor by giving your personal tips on how to build a basement bar.

Six Tips on How to Build a Basement Bar in Your Home

Many of you may have a miniature basement in your home. Some use it as their laundry area. Some use it as their mini gym. Others use it as an prolongation room for house guests. But what if none of these ideas draw your attention? Yet you cannot get over the fact that your basement is not being used to its maximum potential. Then you realized that whenever you have huge celebrations at home, your living room is just not enough. Then you start reasoning why not convert your vacuous basement into a bar? Bingo! So here are a few tips for you on how to build a basement bar in your home.

1. Visualize - Visualize your idea of a basement bar in your mind. This should be a good starting point on how to build a basement bar. Before whatever else, you got to imagine how it is going to look like. Draw it on a sheet of paper. Go down to your basement and outline out which angle you want to put the bar.

Carpentry Framing

2. The Plan - Make a basement bar checklist. After you got a basement drawing in your sketch pad, you should be able to imagine the materials and tools to use in setting it up. Other than wood, you should be able to see things like electrical wiring, lighting fixtures, framing, plumbing, and all other things you can see straight through in your sketch.

3. Inspiration - Check out your friends' basement bars. Supposing you still do not have a clear view of what needs to think in this project. You may want to visit your friends who have basement bars. And do not ever forget to ask them pointers in how to build a basement bar. That is probably one of the most dependable help you could get. For sure, your friends would be more than willing to share their experience.

4. Basement Bar Photos - Check out home manufacture magazines. This medium is someone else source of ideas in how to build a basement bar. The thing is that your plans of realizing this project only happens when you have your thought clear. These types of magazines help you imagine what you hope to perform with your basement bar because they show pictures. This is a big benefit especially if your grades in art class were very low.

5. The Right Materials - Materials to use. Yes of course you got to know this. In the planning stage, materials and labor cost are commonly what determines a project's cost. At this point, it is not enough to just know the basics how to build a basement bar. Extra knowledge is a very prominent factor as well.

6. Supplies and equipment. Base sense and touch will tell you that when you see a bar, there is all the time liquor and most often music. Although this can be thought of in details when your bar is roughly finished, it may help to contain this in your preparations. Maybe know a miniature bit about what brand of wine, brandy, or whatever liquor you know that can suit your taste. Maybe your preference has a lot to do with the mood you set in your bar. Then of course knowing a miniature bit about music tool can lead you to understand what type of speakers you need to install. Acoustic insulation is also a consideration if you want music piped in to your basement bar.

Now that you have the manufacture plan listed out for your miniature project, it is time to work on it. The good thing about this is that you can do it yourself. If you have no background in carpentry or interior designing, this is a good time to learn. Then maybe, in the future, you might want to share your experience. You might want to return the favor by giving your personal tips on how to build a basement bar.

Six Tips on How to Build a Basement Bar in Your Home

Tuesday, July 5, 2011

Home Buying Tips - 7 Things Every Home Buyer Needs to Know

Should you buy a new or used home?

There is no right or wrong answer to this question. Some older homes are still in great shape and some newer homes are a disaster waiting to happen. But one thing is for sure, you need to give this examine some serious thought. There are many considerations that will work on your decision. Among them are your goals and life style needs. And how will you wisely allocate your budget? Many home buyers do not have a plan in place with a list of values and goals. And newly married couples assume their marriage is so exquisite that it can withstand any hardship. Well home proprietary brings many challenges and hardships. And you need to ask yourself the tough questions and be honest with your answers. Make a list of your values. Do an assessment of your income potential. And define the lifestyle you would like to have. You may believe you want to live in a big and fancy home, but are you willing to pay the price of maintenance and up-keep? Are you willing to become a prisoner of your home? If you don't answer these questions before you buy, life will answer them for you after you buy. So take these tips into consideration.

Carpentry Framing

Can you afford to fix and remodel an older home?

The truth is that remodeling is expensive. And many citizen underestimate how much it is going to cost. You don't want to taste the stamp shock after you have moved in.

Many older homes have been repaired or remodeled without a permit! Often by a home owner that has no idea how to build a home to modern codes. This can be an extremely costly qoute if you make the mistake of buying a home with the intention of remodeling it. You may believe it will only cost you ,000 to upgrade and remodel a small bathroom. But home owners are often horrified to gawk that the plumbing, framing, Hvac and electrical work needs to be removed and upgrading to modern construction codes. Often this is not discovered until after the home owner has hired the contractor and the walls, floors and ceiling have been removed. This is a nightmare scenario for many home owners. Their contractor will tell them that the upgrades will be well in excess of the original estimate. And most contractors do not have the skill or the motivation to warn you of inherent problems before you hire them. They are understandably only involved with getting the job. They don't want to scare you away with the possibility of underground expenses.

So how do know if the home you want to buy can be remodeled without any ugly surprises? The truth is that you have to hire a talented and knowledgeable home inspector with taste remodeling homes. That is the only way you are going to get precise and wise council about the home you want to buy. Yes it costs money to get an inspection. But putting your foot into a trap that you cannot fly from can work on your lifestyle and pocket book for decades to come. A home that is not right for you can result in years of hardship and heartbreak. The job of a advisor and inspector is to help home owners understand their choices and give them the facts they need to make a truly wise choice.

Can you cope with a remodeling project?

Remodeling a home can be a very stressful experience. You need to think about either you can live with the inconvenience and hassle of a remodeling project. Remodeling a home involves the following risks and hardships.

It has an inconvenient impact on the living space. You will be forced to move nearby construction materials. You will be living in more constrained quarters while the remodeling is going on. You may need to set up a smaller alternate kitchen, bedroom or bathroom for awhile.

You will taste a dusty environment no matter how clean you or your contractor is. It will be dusty and at times downright dirty. Can you live with this?

Not all remodelers are created equal. Some are con artists. Some are just real slow. Some are very messy. Some do a poor job. And the ones that do everything right are very costly because they need to be. So there is no fly from these hard truths. The buyer must beware and you get what you pay for. Sorry, no exceptions.

Do you have good connection skills? You need to be honest with yourself about this one. If you are married, a remodeling task can test the best relationships. And if you are hiring contractors, you need to be able to recite with them during times of stress that are inevitable. If you are not good with people, then a remodeling task is not for you. Narrow your home buying choices to newer homes that will need less work.

Utility costs can be much higher in an older home. Here's why.

Older homes were not built with the same modern materials and construction techniques that modern homes employ. They maintain heat less efficiently and sometimes wholly lack insulation altogether. Often older furnaces can be inefficient and consume a great deal of fuel and as a result cost more to heat. Older windows can be very drafty and they often lack the thermal insulating characteristics of a modern window. Between all of these considerations you can expect to pay higher heating and cooling bills. And in time you may need to add insulation like retro-foam that fills empty wall cavities. This can be very expensive. You will also need to upgrade the appliances as well. Will you need a new furnace and water heater before long? Will you save money by purchasing a new furnace right away? Is the water heater old and inefficient? Get these questions answered before you sign the purchase agreement.

Should you consist of the cost of repairs and remodeling in your mortgage?

This examine must be answered by your realtor and mortgage consultant. But you need to keep in mind that remodeling and fix cost can be significant. Often you can't remodel without a loan. So it is a good idea to plan for the added cost of the remodeling or repairs. You should at least frame them into the wide cost of the home.

It is easy to fantasize the possibilities, but can you get permits and is it worth it to remodel?

As a remodeler, I have worked with clients that have remodeled older homes. I also purchased an older home in the Lake Minnetonka area to remodel it to my liking. So I have experienced what it is like to gawk the hard truth about remodeling older homes. You must first understand that remodeling projects need a permit and the rules have become very precise and complicated. And many cities have very restricted zoning ordinances which will preclude a home owner from getting a permit because their dream addition will not fit within the setbacks. So before you buy an older home, you need to answer these questions.

Do you want to put an addition on the home? If you do, you need to visit the city and learn about restrictions and setbacks. Do your dreams for the home fall within city ordinance limitations?

Will the home need a historical permit? This can often complicate the remodeling process.

What did the home inspection reveal? Are there site conditions that will make it difficult to control water flow nearby the property? Cities can be difficult to work with when channeling water nearby a home. There are restrictions to water administration in some jurisdictions. Are there structural or utilities issues that will make it mandatory to do wide upgrades to electrical, plumbing, Hvac or structural framing?

Did the previous owners pull the needful permits when the worked on the home? Did the inspection recite that the home has been repaired or remodeled? These two issues must be addressed and you need to know the hard truth before you sign the purchase agreement.

New homes can be poorly built too. So how do you know?

Often times citizen assume a new home is very well built and will not need repairs or maintenance for years to come. This is a poor assumption that can get you into trouble. New home builders over the last twenty years have had their margins shrink because of competition from other builders. And new home buyers have been trying to get more houses for less money. Something had to give and that was construction quality. The defects that a new home can have are numerous. And the cause of those defects are the result of the following considerations.

Often builders will hire the cheapest sub-contractor they can find so they can make more money or compete in a lower price market. These sub-contractors are then under a great deal of pressure to work very quickly to make a living. This results in corners getting cut and the home not being built to last.

If home buyers want more space for less money, then home builders will use economy materials to lower the price. This will have determined results on construction quality.

Often time's city construction inspectors are poorly paid and over scheduled. On numerous occasions I have watched city construction inspectors spend a few minutes on the job site and then sign off on the permit because they have ten other inspections to get to that day. This happens more times than I would care to admit. But the truth is that many construction defects just get overlooked.

State construction codes are minimal requirements. And in the past the construction codes have defined construction methods that have had to be repealed and updated because they trapped too much moisture in the wall cavities. So don't assume that a home that has passed a city construction inspection is free from defects.

Home Buying Tips - 7 Things Every Home Buyer Needs to Know

Should you buy a new or used home?

There is no right or wrong answer to this question. Some older homes are still in great shape and some newer homes are a disaster waiting to happen. But one thing is for sure, you need to give this examine some serious thought. There are many considerations that will work on your decision. Among them are your goals and life style needs. And how will you wisely allocate your budget? Many home buyers do not have a plan in place with a list of values and goals. And newly married couples assume their marriage is so exquisite that it can withstand any hardship. Well home proprietary brings many challenges and hardships. And you need to ask yourself the tough questions and be honest with your answers. Make a list of your values. Do an assessment of your income potential. And define the lifestyle you would like to have. You may believe you want to live in a big and fancy home, but are you willing to pay the price of maintenance and up-keep? Are you willing to become a prisoner of your home? If you don't answer these questions before you buy, life will answer them for you after you buy. So take these tips into consideration.

Carpentry Framing

Can you afford to fix and remodel an older home?

The truth is that remodeling is expensive. And many citizen underestimate how much it is going to cost. You don't want to taste the stamp shock after you have moved in.

Many older homes have been repaired or remodeled without a permit! Often by a home owner that has no idea how to build a home to modern codes. This can be an extremely costly qoute if you make the mistake of buying a home with the intention of remodeling it. You may believe it will only cost you ,000 to upgrade and remodel a small bathroom. But home owners are often horrified to gawk that the plumbing, framing, Hvac and electrical work needs to be removed and upgrading to modern construction codes. Often this is not discovered until after the home owner has hired the contractor and the walls, floors and ceiling have been removed. This is a nightmare scenario for many home owners. Their contractor will tell them that the upgrades will be well in excess of the original estimate. And most contractors do not have the skill or the motivation to warn you of inherent problems before you hire them. They are understandably only involved with getting the job. They don't want to scare you away with the possibility of underground expenses.

So how do know if the home you want to buy can be remodeled without any ugly surprises? The truth is that you have to hire a talented and knowledgeable home inspector with taste remodeling homes. That is the only way you are going to get precise and wise council about the home you want to buy. Yes it costs money to get an inspection. But putting your foot into a trap that you cannot fly from can work on your lifestyle and pocket book for decades to come. A home that is not right for you can result in years of hardship and heartbreak. The job of a advisor and inspector is to help home owners understand their choices and give them the facts they need to make a truly wise choice.

Can you cope with a remodeling project?

Remodeling a home can be a very stressful experience. You need to think about either you can live with the inconvenience and hassle of a remodeling project. Remodeling a home involves the following risks and hardships.

It has an inconvenient impact on the living space. You will be forced to move nearby construction materials. You will be living in more constrained quarters while the remodeling is going on. You may need to set up a smaller alternate kitchen, bedroom or bathroom for awhile.

You will taste a dusty environment no matter how clean you or your contractor is. It will be dusty and at times downright dirty. Can you live with this?

Not all remodelers are created equal. Some are con artists. Some are just real slow. Some are very messy. Some do a poor job. And the ones that do everything right are very costly because they need to be. So there is no fly from these hard truths. The buyer must beware and you get what you pay for. Sorry, no exceptions.

Do you have good connection skills? You need to be honest with yourself about this one. If you are married, a remodeling task can test the best relationships. And if you are hiring contractors, you need to be able to recite with them during times of stress that are inevitable. If you are not good with people, then a remodeling task is not for you. Narrow your home buying choices to newer homes that will need less work.

Utility costs can be much higher in an older home. Here's why.

Older homes were not built with the same modern materials and construction techniques that modern homes employ. They maintain heat less efficiently and sometimes wholly lack insulation altogether. Often older furnaces can be inefficient and consume a great deal of fuel and as a result cost more to heat. Older windows can be very drafty and they often lack the thermal insulating characteristics of a modern window. Between all of these considerations you can expect to pay higher heating and cooling bills. And in time you may need to add insulation like retro-foam that fills empty wall cavities. This can be very expensive. You will also need to upgrade the appliances as well. Will you need a new furnace and water heater before long? Will you save money by purchasing a new furnace right away? Is the water heater old and inefficient? Get these questions answered before you sign the purchase agreement.

Should you consist of the cost of repairs and remodeling in your mortgage?

This examine must be answered by your realtor and mortgage consultant. But you need to keep in mind that remodeling and fix cost can be significant. Often you can't remodel without a loan. So it is a good idea to plan for the added cost of the remodeling or repairs. You should at least frame them into the wide cost of the home.

It is easy to fantasize the possibilities, but can you get permits and is it worth it to remodel?

As a remodeler, I have worked with clients that have remodeled older homes. I also purchased an older home in the Lake Minnetonka area to remodel it to my liking. So I have experienced what it is like to gawk the hard truth about remodeling older homes. You must first understand that remodeling projects need a permit and the rules have become very precise and complicated. And many cities have very restricted zoning ordinances which will preclude a home owner from getting a permit because their dream addition will not fit within the setbacks. So before you buy an older home, you need to answer these questions.

Do you want to put an addition on the home? If you do, you need to visit the city and learn about restrictions and setbacks. Do your dreams for the home fall within city ordinance limitations?

Will the home need a historical permit? This can often complicate the remodeling process.

What did the home inspection reveal? Are there site conditions that will make it difficult to control water flow nearby the property? Cities can be difficult to work with when channeling water nearby a home. There are restrictions to water administration in some jurisdictions. Are there structural or utilities issues that will make it mandatory to do wide upgrades to electrical, plumbing, Hvac or structural framing?

Did the previous owners pull the needful permits when the worked on the home? Did the inspection recite that the home has been repaired or remodeled? These two issues must be addressed and you need to know the hard truth before you sign the purchase agreement.

New homes can be poorly built too. So how do you know?

Often times citizen assume a new home is very well built and will not need repairs or maintenance for years to come. This is a poor assumption that can get you into trouble. New home builders over the last twenty years have had their margins shrink because of competition from other builders. And new home buyers have been trying to get more houses for less money. Something had to give and that was construction quality. The defects that a new home can have are numerous. And the cause of those defects are the result of the following considerations.

Often builders will hire the cheapest sub-contractor they can find so they can make more money or compete in a lower price market. These sub-contractors are then under a great deal of pressure to work very quickly to make a living. This results in corners getting cut and the home not being built to last.

If home buyers want more space for less money, then home builders will use economy materials to lower the price. This will have determined results on construction quality.

Often time's city construction inspectors are poorly paid and over scheduled. On numerous occasions I have watched city construction inspectors spend a few minutes on the job site and then sign off on the permit because they have ten other inspections to get to that day. This happens more times than I would care to admit. But the truth is that many construction defects just get overlooked.

State construction codes are minimal requirements. And in the past the construction codes have defined construction methods that have had to be repealed and updated because they trapped too much moisture in the wall cavities. So don't assume that a home that has passed a city construction inspection is free from defects.

Home Buying Tips - 7 Things Every Home Buyer Needs to Know

Monday, July 4, 2011

Summer Fun For Kids

Summer can be a lot of fun for your family. However, in many cases, come August, moms are more than ready to put their children back in school. When the novelty of summer wears off, and the house vacation is over, the kids can get bored. They may get hot and irritable, and mom may have trouble coping.

The moms I've seen cope summer the best are the ones that have lots of activities planned for their kids. With that in mind, here are some of the things you can do in the summer to make it more enjoyable for everyone.

Carpentry Framing

- Get your boys involved in scouting and cub scouts. There should be some units in your area related with either a Church, civic or school group. Scouting expenses are minimal. The activities are wonderful.

- Involve your girls in similar activities. Most girls now enjoy the outdoors as much as the boys. When my sons go on their hiking and rock climbing trips they often have girls with them. Many times the girls are able to out climb the boys.

- Take benefit of society based summer programs. Every child should learn how to swim. Our local center offers all from tumbling classes to group piano lessons.

- Check with your local library for summer programs. In increasing to the reading programs they have at the library, they will have facts about other society activities.

- Music lessons enrich children's lives if they are so inclined. Help them to appreciate good music, and they won't play some of the what I think is "garbage" they now call music If lessons are not an option, use recorded music. The library has lots of music. Make it a game to learn and recognize the sounds of dissimilar instruments.

- Summer is also a good time to expose your children to art and photography. Visit art galleries, involve your children in photograph taking and the art of photograph framing.

- The same holds true with movies and the classics. Make sure they see the good moves, so they can recognize the good from the bad. Good movies teach good lessons and talented actors. Help them learn the difference.

- Use this free time to teach your children skills you don't have time for during the school year such as sewing, knitting, crocheting, cooking, and other homemaking skills. Boys and girls can learn to heal things nearby the home, as well as carpentry skills.

- There are lots of ideas for crafts that children can do on the Internet and in the stores. Introduce them to a new one each year. One example would be tie dying. It's very easy to do. Have them do a plain white t-shirt. They will have a lot of fun and love wearing it.

- Summer is also a great time to visit aquariums, fish ladders, or in our case, go to places where you can watch for whales. Introduce your children to sea life. The earth is covered with water. Make them curious. Keep their minds stimulated, and they will do better in school.

- Summer and water go hand in hand. If you have water nearby, either a lake or stream, take your kids there often. There is nothing as refreshing as playing in the water on a hot day. Kids have lots of energy. Let them burn it off, and they will behave better when they are home.

When they get older they can fish and swim, and go to water parks. One of my sons saved up for a rubber boat. I'll all the time remember our trips to the lake. He let me laze in the bow while he rowed me around. My kids also had astounding opportunities to go water skiing and canoeing through their affiliations with Church groups and Scouting units. These programs are ready to anything who is interested.

- If you live in the city, drive into the country one night and let them see the stars. They can be an foreseen, sight to those who have never seen the sky full of them. Camping is also fun, even in the backyard.

- Sports can keep kids occupied for hours. If team sports are not an option, put up a hoop, tie an inner tube to a big tree, or buy a trampoline, scooter, or skates. Kids can be surprisingly inventive when it comes to having fun. In some areas of the country windstorms will blow big tumbleweeds close to town. The kids love to go out there and jump over them.

- All families can partake in sports together, either it's in the back yard or at the park. Some ride bikes together, while others walk, hike, or camp. When kids are very small, just pulling them nearby in a wagon is fun for them. My son and his wife take their children everywhere, either it is to summit a mountain or on a trip to China. His website is full of the adventures of his family. The link to his informative site is on the opportunity page of economical Happy Families.

- Kids love games when they are small. They love to play them with you. Have a good contribute of board games and other puzzles. One of my fondest memories as a youth was playing crossword puzzles with my grandmother when she would come to visit us.

- Take benefit of the summer weather to teach your children about the earth and growing things. Everyone has room for a few containers. Let each child have his own and tend it himself. If you have a larger garden, divide it up and have each child responsible for a section. Teach them to pull weeds and cultivate the soil nearby the plants. Children love to grow things they can eat. Give them something to tend that they enjoy eating. Many a parent has been embarrassed by the care given to a child's section of the garden compared to their responsibility.

- Teach your kids the value of money by letting them make some. There are all the time extra chores to be done in the summer that your kids can do. Give them a limited money to pull weeds or do some watering. There are also opportunities to feed pets or take care of houses while others are on vacation. One summer one of my sons was into recycling, and we took long walks together while he collected aluminum cans.

Every house is different. Find things your house enjoys and make the time to do them while the weather is nice. Make summer a time of activities and happy memories. Summer comes nearby every year, but your children won't all the time be there.

Summer Fun For Kids

Summer can be a lot of fun for your family. However, in many cases, come August, moms are more than ready to put their children back in school. When the novelty of summer wears off, and the house vacation is over, the kids can get bored. They may get hot and irritable, and mom may have trouble coping.

The moms I've seen cope summer the best are the ones that have lots of activities planned for their kids. With that in mind, here are some of the things you can do in the summer to make it more enjoyable for everyone.

Carpentry Framing

- Get your boys involved in scouting and cub scouts. There should be some units in your area related with either a Church, civic or school group. Scouting expenses are minimal. The activities are wonderful.

- Involve your girls in similar activities. Most girls now enjoy the outdoors as much as the boys. When my sons go on their hiking and rock climbing trips they often have girls with them. Many times the girls are able to out climb the boys.

- Take benefit of society based summer programs. Every child should learn how to swim. Our local center offers all from tumbling classes to group piano lessons.

- Check with your local library for summer programs. In increasing to the reading programs they have at the library, they will have facts about other society activities.

- Music lessons enrich children's lives if they are so inclined. Help them to appreciate good music, and they won't play some of the what I think is "garbage" they now call music If lessons are not an option, use recorded music. The library has lots of music. Make it a game to learn and recognize the sounds of dissimilar instruments.

- Summer is also a good time to expose your children to art and photography. Visit art galleries, involve your children in photograph taking and the art of photograph framing.

- The same holds true with movies and the classics. Make sure they see the good moves, so they can recognize the good from the bad. Good movies teach good lessons and talented actors. Help them learn the difference.

- Use this free time to teach your children skills you don't have time for during the school year such as sewing, knitting, crocheting, cooking, and other homemaking skills. Boys and girls can learn to heal things nearby the home, as well as carpentry skills.

- There are lots of ideas for crafts that children can do on the Internet and in the stores. Introduce them to a new one each year. One example would be tie dying. It's very easy to do. Have them do a plain white t-shirt. They will have a lot of fun and love wearing it.

- Summer is also a great time to visit aquariums, fish ladders, or in our case, go to places where you can watch for whales. Introduce your children to sea life. The earth is covered with water. Make them curious. Keep their minds stimulated, and they will do better in school.

- Summer and water go hand in hand. If you have water nearby, either a lake or stream, take your kids there often. There is nothing as refreshing as playing in the water on a hot day. Kids have lots of energy. Let them burn it off, and they will behave better when they are home.

When they get older they can fish and swim, and go to water parks. One of my sons saved up for a rubber boat. I'll all the time remember our trips to the lake. He let me laze in the bow while he rowed me around. My kids also had astounding opportunities to go water skiing and canoeing through their affiliations with Church groups and Scouting units. These programs are ready to anything who is interested.

- If you live in the city, drive into the country one night and let them see the stars. They can be an foreseen, sight to those who have never seen the sky full of them. Camping is also fun, even in the backyard.

- Sports can keep kids occupied for hours. If team sports are not an option, put up a hoop, tie an inner tube to a big tree, or buy a trampoline, scooter, or skates. Kids can be surprisingly inventive when it comes to having fun. In some areas of the country windstorms will blow big tumbleweeds close to town. The kids love to go out there and jump over them.

- All families can partake in sports together, either it's in the back yard or at the park. Some ride bikes together, while others walk, hike, or camp. When kids are very small, just pulling them nearby in a wagon is fun for them. My son and his wife take their children everywhere, either it is to summit a mountain or on a trip to China. His website is full of the adventures of his family. The link to his informative site is on the opportunity page of economical Happy Families.

- Kids love games when they are small. They love to play them with you. Have a good contribute of board games and other puzzles. One of my fondest memories as a youth was playing crossword puzzles with my grandmother when she would come to visit us.

- Take benefit of the summer weather to teach your children about the earth and growing things. Everyone has room for a few containers. Let each child have his own and tend it himself. If you have a larger garden, divide it up and have each child responsible for a section. Teach them to pull weeds and cultivate the soil nearby the plants. Children love to grow things they can eat. Give them something to tend that they enjoy eating. Many a parent has been embarrassed by the care given to a child's section of the garden compared to their responsibility.

- Teach your kids the value of money by letting them make some. There are all the time extra chores to be done in the summer that your kids can do. Give them a limited money to pull weeds or do some watering. There are also opportunities to feed pets or take care of houses while others are on vacation. One summer one of my sons was into recycling, and we took long walks together while he collected aluminum cans.

Every house is different. Find things your house enjoys and make the time to do them while the weather is nice. Make summer a time of activities and happy memories. Summer comes nearby every year, but your children won't all the time be there.

Summer Fun For Kids

Sunday, July 3, 2011

Wood Framing For Your Home Projects

There are at least a million dissimilar things that can be discussed about framing. I will try here to cover the basic framing items you will encounter whenever you are construction a shed or stable and some items in a house. It is strongly suggested you do Not try and frame a house on your first outing. A house is a major undertaking and is best left to the pros. A shed, stable or a gazebo or other scenery feature is well within the midpoint handyman's ability. If you have basic carpentry tools you should be able with care, build a solid long lasting structure. There are many pre-made plan sets ready at your local lumberyard or big box store. They will provide a good layout, possibly furnish lumber quantities needed for the job and are a good guide for you to follow. Remember you should all the time check with your local construction division to request as to whether a permit is required or not. Many municipalities do not need permits for shed, decks and pools but do need them for garages, etc. It is all the time good to ask first.

Tools needed: safety glasses, power saw with sharp blade, good hand saw, hammer, 4 foot level, square, string line, pencils, chalk line, tripod and level (available for rent at your local rental store by the day for only a few dollars), prolongation cords or other power source and a good tape measure.

Carpentry Framing

Materials: Look at your drawings to see if a lumber list is printed on them. If it is, you may take it to your lumber yard and they will price all the materials for you. Don't forget nails or screws. If there is no lumber list and you cannot outline out the materials you need, many market will when they are not so busy, outline the lumber for you in order to make the sale. Ask the salesperson. Most will be happy it do it for you.

Hopefully you own a set of saw horses to use as a cutting table. They are not considerable but if you can afford them or can build them they will save your back a great deal of pain. Look at your plans. Study them. settle on the lumber you need for the floor framing and lay it out on the saw horses. If you're construction a stable do the same for the wall framing. The plans will show you what lengths to cut the floor pieces or wall studs. Your footings or foundation walls should be in place by now. Frame the perimeter band or "rim" joists first. This will allow you to make sure the construction floor is quadrilateral and level. Using your tape measure, portion from one exterior projection across to the opposite exterior projection and narrative the measurement. Lets say it is 110 ½". Now portion across the other two opposite corners. If you get a measurement of 110" even, you are 1/4" out of square. It's ½ of anyone the distinction in your measurements are. Just move the corners a dinky bit until both measurements are 110 ¼". Your floor frame is now dead square. Don't be upset if you find you're out of square.

Nobody gets it excellent on the first try. If you have made accurate cuts in your lumber and the lengths are correct, you will find it is easy to make the unit square. You now have a 4 sided perimeter rim joist box completed. Start to fill in the floor joists on the centers shown on your drawings. Do not turn the dimensions. They are drawn that way for a purpose. It is for structural retain but you will find when you go to install your plywood flooring it will not fit in suitable 4' x 8' sheets. Plywood comes in 48" widths so if you alter your floor joist spacing, the plywood will not fit and you will end up lots of cutting to do and follow in a huge waste of material. So, we now have a faultless floor framing system. install any hangers shown on the drawing, wood blocking or other components shown on the drawings. It is time to install the plywood. Here's where the good long lasting sheds begin and others fail. Take the time to use a good quality construction adhesive on top of each joist before you install your plywood. Using an inexpensive caulk gun, apply a bead along the full length of the joists you are about to cover. Lay your plywood considered on the joists so as not to spread the adhesive all over the plywood and you! Now nail or screw down the plywood. A normal rule of thumb is space your fasteners 8" apart along the perimeter of the plywood and 4-6" apart on the "field" or inside of the plywood. This will provide a super strong and squeak free floor. Continue on until all the plywood flooring is complete.

Now for the wall framing. You have a great place to frame your walls on the floor you just finished! Just layout the stud and plate material on the floor for one wall. Place the lowest plate wood closest to the edge of the floor or lowest of the wall, layout the studs roughly where they go and then the two top plate materials across them. Assemble the wall according to your plans. If there is a window or door in that wall, frame for it now. It's a lot easier when the wall is laying flat on the floor then when it is standing upright. portion across the corners again, the same as you did on the floor frame. Make sure the wall is square. Now apply your plywood. Leave the plywood hang down over the lower plate at least a couple of inches. You will see why later. Yes, while it's laying flat. It is not considerable to cut out the windows or doors, they can be cut out later. Ok, the first wall is framed and covered with plywood or "sheathed". Its time to stand it up into place.

Hopefully you have some help around. It's not impossible to do alone but it's a lot easier with help. If you have help, just stand the wall upright and using your sledge hammer and with at least one person balancing the wall, knock it into place along the edge of the floor frame. When you ultimately get the wall to the edge, the extra plywood hanging down over the lower plate will drop off the edge. Push the wall tightly against the lower floor farming and nail the plywood to the floor frame. Now speedily as the other person is still retention the wall, take a 2 x4 and nail it to the end stud of the wall about ¾ of the way up the wall until it is ultimately nailed into place. Take the other end and nail it to the floor or rim joist on a 45 degree angle. This will help hold the wall until it is securely nailed and other walls are in place. There are market wall jacks that can be purchased or rented that will not only jack up the wall but will hold it until final nailing. Great tool! Now nail the new lower wall plate securely to the rim joist development sure the wall is even on the ends and not sticking over one way over the other. It is time to frame your 2nd wall.

When the 2nd wall is completely framed and sheathed, again slide it into place with one end matching one end of the first wall. Using the sledge hammer and with your partner balancing the wall upright, make sure the corners are tight together. Once they are, nail the projection 2 x 4's together development up the corner. Nail the sheathing to the lowest rim joist again. The walls along with the brace should stand on their own at this point. Now frame the 3rd and 4th walls and install them the same way as the first two all the time checking with your 4' level to assure the walls are plumb before you nail them to the floor and each other. Once all 4 walls are erected, plumbed and nailed, you may want to place some 2x4's across the walls to added brace the buildings while you frame the roof. Make a note here that we are using 2x4's for our walls but the framing sequence is the same whether your walls are 2x4, 2x6 or anyone is called for on the plans. It is time to install your top plate. This will be a 2nd set of 2x4's running colse to the tops of your walls tying them together. The first 2x4 starts on the end of the projection wall and runs across to end of the 2nd wall This ties the corners together. Each subsequent 2x4 does the same thing. It is not considerable for these to be one piece but it helps. Each 2x4 "laps" onto the wall before it. When you are done, the top plate will be a double layer or 2-2x4's thick. This provides the added vigor for your rafters to sit upon.

Headers-Over every wall occasion whether for a door or window perhaps, it is required to advance the wall where the studs have been cut away. Your plans will call for 2-2"x6"s perhaps. Cut the 2" x 6" the length of the rough occasion plus 3". Your window size rough opening, say is 30" wide and 40" high. You need to cut the 2 x6's 33" long. Your wall studs will also be 33" apart running from floor plate to top plate. portion up from the floor to where the top of window will be above the floor. Mark your studs. Now install the header with the lowest of the header on that mark. Nail it securely straight through the sides of both studs. Now cut 2 more 2 x4's that will be installed as "jack" studs. install these jack studs directly under the ends of the header and nail them to the full height studs. Your accomplished rough occasion should be 30" wide. Many framers will install the jack studs first and then naturally lay the header on top and nail into place. Now cut a 2x4, 30" long. portion down from the lowest of your accomplished header 40" and mark the jack studs. Toe nail this lowest window sill plate into place. Your rough occasion is now 30" x 40". Infill under the lowest window sill with 3 pieces of 2x4, one under each end and one in the middle where it will fall at the 16"Oc wall stud layout. This will help later if drywall or other wall conclude is to be installed. Repeat for any other wall openings that were not framed during wall construction.

Roof Framing- There are many types of roofs that may be used on buildings today. Coarse types are gable roof, shed, mansard, barn or hip roof. Most sheds or garages use a easy gable roofing system. Do not be afraid to try the others, just follow your plans carefully. Layout the materials for your rafters. Each rafter will have a cut at the top to match the ridge board and someone else set of cuts at the lowest called a "birds mouth" for where the rafter sits on the top plate and someone else vertical tail cut which provides the vertical face for you to nail your fascia boards against. Rafter cutting can be tricky. Most plans provide a rafter cut template which makes the job real easy. Your plans will tell you what uncut length to cut the rafter, what angle the top must be cut and the shape of the birds mouth. portion Twice, Cut Once! Cut your ridge board to length. The ridge board will also be one size larger than your rafter. 2x6 rafter, 2 x 8 ridge board. Place the ridge board across the wall top plate and then cut two 2x4 to retain it. A dinky math here. If your ridge board shows it is 10' above the floor and your walls are 8' high, and your ridge board is 2x8, deduct 7 5/8" (nominal size don't forget) from 10' leaving 9'-4 3/8". Deduct 8' walls from this riposte and we get a piece needed of 1'-4 3/8". Cut your 2 x4's this length. Placing one 2x4 under each end of the ridge board, nail the 2x4 to the top plate and to the ridge board. The ridge board is now temporarily supported on each end by this short stud.

Now test fit the first rafter you cut. It should sit snugly on the top plate and lay flat against the ridge board with no spaces. As the weight of the roof load is applied, (plywood, shingles, snow perhaps?) it will push down on the rafters against the ridge board. If there is a space between the rafter end and the ridge it will not work correctly. Check the birds mouth cut on top of the wall. Does it fit snugly? Now is the time to adjust. If all things fits well, clearly mark your rafter Template and do not use it Until The End. You will use this rafter to cut all the other rafters without having to portion each one. Ok, now cut all your rafters on your sawhorses using your rafter template for layout lines. Just trace it. Take all the rafters into the shed and lean them against the top of the wall roughly where they will be installed. You will appreciate this if you're working alone. Using a sturdy ladder, place your first rafter against the ridge board and nail it to the top plate on the wall. Now install the opposite rafter on the other side of the ridge board. Start on the end rafters first. Now do the two rafters on the opposite end of the shed. You will see this stabilizes the ridge board. Now take a few minutes to make sure all things is level and plumb. Make sure your ridge board is level and not bowed. If all things is correct, go ahead and install the balance of the rafters using the Template as the last rafter. Make sure all rafters are nailed properly.

Roof sheathing-Using the plywood thickness specified in your plans, start installing the roof sheathing. Depending on the shed size, a full sheet can roughly all the time be located at the lowest beginning in one corner. Note: Before you start installing the plywood, tack nail your fascia board to the vertical end cut of your rafter. Using a scrap piece of wood, hold the scarp on top of the rafter sticking over the end. Slide the fascia board up against the scrap and nail. You will see the fascia dos not come all the way to the top of the rafter tail. When you install the roof sheathing, you want the plywood to hang over the rafter tail and end at the fascia board. install your roof sheathing and nail it completely to the rafters. You want to leave a small occasion at the top of the rafters possibly 2-3" wide on each side of the roof. This will allow hot air to leave out the roof and keep your roof cooler. install all your fascia boards.

Roofing-There are also many types of roofing ready today. Most Coarse are fiberglass shingles but wood shingles, metal roofing and rubber membrane roofing are being used much more often today. Assuming you are using fiberglass shingles you need to outline how much you need. The simplest way to portion your roof. If the roof is 8' x 8' on each side, that's 64 quadrilateral feet each or a total of 128 quadrilateral feet. Most shingles come 3 bundles to a square. 128 equals 1.3 quadrilateral or 4 bundles of shingles. You will need some shingles for cuts and roof ridge caps. Buy 6 bundles. Shingles come in many colors today and some shingles come 4 bundles to a square. Check the packaging. You will need sufficient aluminum drip edge to go all colse to the perimeter edge of the roof. portion it. They come in full 10' pieces only but also come in various colors. Felt or tar paper. Many contractors today do not install felt paper but I still think you get a much good job it you use it and it's cheap. It provides a 2nd layer of roof safety in case of damaged or missing shingle. If your heating the shed or stable it is strongly suggested and required today in most states that you install ice and water shield membrane. It comes in various widths and roll sizes. You want to install a minimum of 2 widths beginning at the lower edge of your roof. It is sticky and tricky to install but is well worth it. It prevents ice dam build up at the eave edges from the re-freezing of water melted from the heated portion of the roof and the unheated soffit area hanging exterior your wall.

Install your drip edge retention it tightly against the fascia board and nailing it down straight through the roof sheathing. This is a accomplished piece you will see later under the edge of the shingles and helps prevent shingle edge damage. There are so many types of shingles ready it is impossible to characterize them all here. follow the directions on the shingle bundles. Work you way up the roof from one side development sure you keep the shingle tab slots level with one another. Cuts for one end can be used on the other and so on. You will have some scrap left over. Keep them for now. After your drip edge is installed, you must install one row of shingles upside down along the lowest edges of the roof. This will provide a water seal when the first shingle is installed directly over the upside down shingle and you will see the same color underneath the all the tab slots.

With all the shingles installed it is time to install the ridge vent and cap shingles. Make sure your roof shingles do not cover the slot you left in the roof sheathing. If they do, trim them back now. Continuous ridge vents come in many sizes and shapes as well. Some are pre-formed paper, wire mesh, cellulose and many others. They all serve the same function. You considered bend the vent in half and place it along the top of the ridge board over the occasion you left in the plywood. Place a few roofing nails as you go retention it into place. Stop each end of the ridge vent about 8" from the ends of the ridge board. Now get all your leftover and cut shingles. You want to cut the full tab off the shingle to make ridge cap shingles.

Shingles are cut into tabs of 1/3 shingle each. Use 2 nails on each cap shingle lapping each shingle so nails do not show. Place a small whole of roofing tar under first shingle to hold it down so you will not see exposed nails and to prevent wind ftom lifting the first edge. install the ridge cap shingles end to end. Face the shingle ends away from the prevailing winds. If it is a large roof, you may install one-half from each end and end in the middle of the roof. You then cut one smaller tab to use as a closure piece the same color as your shingles and nail all 4 corners. Place a small dab of roofing cement on each nail to prevent water from entering into the nail hole. Basically your shed or stable is done. install the door hardware, windows and trims if you have any. A good coat of paint and your ready to go! All the dimensions I have in case,granted here are samples and are in case,granted as a guide only. Please double check all your dimensions before cutting your lumber and remember to all the time wear safety glasses when using power equipment.

Wood Framing For Your Home Projects

There are at least a million dissimilar things that can be discussed about framing. I will try here to cover the basic framing items you will encounter whenever you are construction a shed or stable and some items in a house. It is strongly suggested you do Not try and frame a house on your first outing. A house is a major undertaking and is best left to the pros. A shed, stable or a gazebo or other scenery feature is well within the midpoint handyman's ability. If you have basic carpentry tools you should be able with care, build a solid long lasting structure. There are many pre-made plan sets ready at your local lumberyard or big box store. They will provide a good layout, possibly furnish lumber quantities needed for the job and are a good guide for you to follow. Remember you should all the time check with your local construction division to request as to whether a permit is required or not. Many municipalities do not need permits for shed, decks and pools but do need them for garages, etc. It is all the time good to ask first.

Tools needed: safety glasses, power saw with sharp blade, good hand saw, hammer, 4 foot level, square, string line, pencils, chalk line, tripod and level (available for rent at your local rental store by the day for only a few dollars), prolongation cords or other power source and a good tape measure.

Carpentry Framing

Materials: Look at your drawings to see if a lumber list is printed on them. If it is, you may take it to your lumber yard and they will price all the materials for you. Don't forget nails or screws. If there is no lumber list and you cannot outline out the materials you need, many market will when they are not so busy, outline the lumber for you in order to make the sale. Ask the salesperson. Most will be happy it do it for you.

Hopefully you own a set of saw horses to use as a cutting table. They are not considerable but if you can afford them or can build them they will save your back a great deal of pain. Look at your plans. Study them. settle on the lumber you need for the floor framing and lay it out on the saw horses. If you're construction a stable do the same for the wall framing. The plans will show you what lengths to cut the floor pieces or wall studs. Your footings or foundation walls should be in place by now. Frame the perimeter band or "rim" joists first. This will allow you to make sure the construction floor is quadrilateral and level. Using your tape measure, portion from one exterior projection across to the opposite exterior projection and narrative the measurement. Lets say it is 110 ½". Now portion across the other two opposite corners. If you get a measurement of 110" even, you are 1/4" out of square. It's ½ of anyone the distinction in your measurements are. Just move the corners a dinky bit until both measurements are 110 ¼". Your floor frame is now dead square. Don't be upset if you find you're out of square.

Nobody gets it excellent on the first try. If you have made accurate cuts in your lumber and the lengths are correct, you will find it is easy to make the unit square. You now have a 4 sided perimeter rim joist box completed. Start to fill in the floor joists on the centers shown on your drawings. Do not turn the dimensions. They are drawn that way for a purpose. It is for structural retain but you will find when you go to install your plywood flooring it will not fit in suitable 4' x 8' sheets. Plywood comes in 48" widths so if you alter your floor joist spacing, the plywood will not fit and you will end up lots of cutting to do and follow in a huge waste of material. So, we now have a faultless floor framing system. install any hangers shown on the drawing, wood blocking or other components shown on the drawings. It is time to install the plywood. Here's where the good long lasting sheds begin and others fail. Take the time to use a good quality construction adhesive on top of each joist before you install your plywood. Using an inexpensive caulk gun, apply a bead along the full length of the joists you are about to cover. Lay your plywood considered on the joists so as not to spread the adhesive all over the plywood and you! Now nail or screw down the plywood. A normal rule of thumb is space your fasteners 8" apart along the perimeter of the plywood and 4-6" apart on the "field" or inside of the plywood. This will provide a super strong and squeak free floor. Continue on until all the plywood flooring is complete.

Now for the wall framing. You have a great place to frame your walls on the floor you just finished! Just layout the stud and plate material on the floor for one wall. Place the lowest plate wood closest to the edge of the floor or lowest of the wall, layout the studs roughly where they go and then the two top plate materials across them. Assemble the wall according to your plans. If there is a window or door in that wall, frame for it now. It's a lot easier when the wall is laying flat on the floor then when it is standing upright. portion across the corners again, the same as you did on the floor frame. Make sure the wall is square. Now apply your plywood. Leave the plywood hang down over the lower plate at least a couple of inches. You will see why later. Yes, while it's laying flat. It is not considerable to cut out the windows or doors, they can be cut out later. Ok, the first wall is framed and covered with plywood or "sheathed". Its time to stand it up into place.

Hopefully you have some help around. It's not impossible to do alone but it's a lot easier with help. If you have help, just stand the wall upright and using your sledge hammer and with at least one person balancing the wall, knock it into place along the edge of the floor frame. When you ultimately get the wall to the edge, the extra plywood hanging down over the lower plate will drop off the edge. Push the wall tightly against the lower floor farming and nail the plywood to the floor frame. Now speedily as the other person is still retention the wall, take a 2 x4 and nail it to the end stud of the wall about ¾ of the way up the wall until it is ultimately nailed into place. Take the other end and nail it to the floor or rim joist on a 45 degree angle. This will help hold the wall until it is securely nailed and other walls are in place. There are market wall jacks that can be purchased or rented that will not only jack up the wall but will hold it until final nailing. Great tool! Now nail the new lower wall plate securely to the rim joist development sure the wall is even on the ends and not sticking over one way over the other. It is time to frame your 2nd wall.

When the 2nd wall is completely framed and sheathed, again slide it into place with one end matching one end of the first wall. Using the sledge hammer and with your partner balancing the wall upright, make sure the corners are tight together. Once they are, nail the projection 2 x 4's together development up the corner. Nail the sheathing to the lowest rim joist again. The walls along with the brace should stand on their own at this point. Now frame the 3rd and 4th walls and install them the same way as the first two all the time checking with your 4' level to assure the walls are plumb before you nail them to the floor and each other. Once all 4 walls are erected, plumbed and nailed, you may want to place some 2x4's across the walls to added brace the buildings while you frame the roof. Make a note here that we are using 2x4's for our walls but the framing sequence is the same whether your walls are 2x4, 2x6 or anyone is called for on the plans. It is time to install your top plate. This will be a 2nd set of 2x4's running colse to the tops of your walls tying them together. The first 2x4 starts on the end of the projection wall and runs across to end of the 2nd wall This ties the corners together. Each subsequent 2x4 does the same thing. It is not considerable for these to be one piece but it helps. Each 2x4 "laps" onto the wall before it. When you are done, the top plate will be a double layer or 2-2x4's thick. This provides the added vigor for your rafters to sit upon.

Headers-Over every wall occasion whether for a door or window perhaps, it is required to advance the wall where the studs have been cut away. Your plans will call for 2-2"x6"s perhaps. Cut the 2" x 6" the length of the rough occasion plus 3". Your window size rough opening, say is 30" wide and 40" high. You need to cut the 2 x6's 33" long. Your wall studs will also be 33" apart running from floor plate to top plate. portion up from the floor to where the top of window will be above the floor. Mark your studs. Now install the header with the lowest of the header on that mark. Nail it securely straight through the sides of both studs. Now cut 2 more 2 x4's that will be installed as "jack" studs. install these jack studs directly under the ends of the header and nail them to the full height studs. Your accomplished rough occasion should be 30" wide. Many framers will install the jack studs first and then naturally lay the header on top and nail into place. Now cut a 2x4, 30" long. portion down from the lowest of your accomplished header 40" and mark the jack studs. Toe nail this lowest window sill plate into place. Your rough occasion is now 30" x 40". Infill under the lowest window sill with 3 pieces of 2x4, one under each end and one in the middle where it will fall at the 16"Oc wall stud layout. This will help later if drywall or other wall conclude is to be installed. Repeat for any other wall openings that were not framed during wall construction.

Roof Framing- There are many types of roofs that may be used on buildings today. Coarse types are gable roof, shed, mansard, barn or hip roof. Most sheds or garages use a easy gable roofing system. Do not be afraid to try the others, just follow your plans carefully. Layout the materials for your rafters. Each rafter will have a cut at the top to match the ridge board and someone else set of cuts at the lowest called a "birds mouth" for where the rafter sits on the top plate and someone else vertical tail cut which provides the vertical face for you to nail your fascia boards against. Rafter cutting can be tricky. Most plans provide a rafter cut template which makes the job real easy. Your plans will tell you what uncut length to cut the rafter, what angle the top must be cut and the shape of the birds mouth. portion Twice, Cut Once! Cut your ridge board to length. The ridge board will also be one size larger than your rafter. 2x6 rafter, 2 x 8 ridge board. Place the ridge board across the wall top plate and then cut two 2x4 to retain it. A dinky math here. If your ridge board shows it is 10' above the floor and your walls are 8' high, and your ridge board is 2x8, deduct 7 5/8" (nominal size don't forget) from 10' leaving 9'-4 3/8". Deduct 8' walls from this riposte and we get a piece needed of 1'-4 3/8". Cut your 2 x4's this length. Placing one 2x4 under each end of the ridge board, nail the 2x4 to the top plate and to the ridge board. The ridge board is now temporarily supported on each end by this short stud.

Now test fit the first rafter you cut. It should sit snugly on the top plate and lay flat against the ridge board with no spaces. As the weight of the roof load is applied, (plywood, shingles, snow perhaps?) it will push down on the rafters against the ridge board. If there is a space between the rafter end and the ridge it will not work correctly. Check the birds mouth cut on top of the wall. Does it fit snugly? Now is the time to adjust. If all things fits well, clearly mark your rafter Template and do not use it Until The End. You will use this rafter to cut all the other rafters without having to portion each one. Ok, now cut all your rafters on your sawhorses using your rafter template for layout lines. Just trace it. Take all the rafters into the shed and lean them against the top of the wall roughly where they will be installed. You will appreciate this if you're working alone. Using a sturdy ladder, place your first rafter against the ridge board and nail it to the top plate on the wall. Now install the opposite rafter on the other side of the ridge board. Start on the end rafters first. Now do the two rafters on the opposite end of the shed. You will see this stabilizes the ridge board. Now take a few minutes to make sure all things is level and plumb. Make sure your ridge board is level and not bowed. If all things is correct, go ahead and install the balance of the rafters using the Template as the last rafter. Make sure all rafters are nailed properly.

Roof sheathing-Using the plywood thickness specified in your plans, start installing the roof sheathing. Depending on the shed size, a full sheet can roughly all the time be located at the lowest beginning in one corner. Note: Before you start installing the plywood, tack nail your fascia board to the vertical end cut of your rafter. Using a scrap piece of wood, hold the scarp on top of the rafter sticking over the end. Slide the fascia board up against the scrap and nail. You will see the fascia dos not come all the way to the top of the rafter tail. When you install the roof sheathing, you want the plywood to hang over the rafter tail and end at the fascia board. install your roof sheathing and nail it completely to the rafters. You want to leave a small occasion at the top of the rafters possibly 2-3" wide on each side of the roof. This will allow hot air to leave out the roof and keep your roof cooler. install all your fascia boards.

Roofing-There are also many types of roofing ready today. Most Coarse are fiberglass shingles but wood shingles, metal roofing and rubber membrane roofing are being used much more often today. Assuming you are using fiberglass shingles you need to outline how much you need. The simplest way to portion your roof. If the roof is 8' x 8' on each side, that's 64 quadrilateral feet each or a total of 128 quadrilateral feet. Most shingles come 3 bundles to a square. 128 equals 1.3 quadrilateral or 4 bundles of shingles. You will need some shingles for cuts and roof ridge caps. Buy 6 bundles. Shingles come in many colors today and some shingles come 4 bundles to a square. Check the packaging. You will need sufficient aluminum drip edge to go all colse to the perimeter edge of the roof. portion it. They come in full 10' pieces only but also come in various colors. Felt or tar paper. Many contractors today do not install felt paper but I still think you get a much good job it you use it and it's cheap. It provides a 2nd layer of roof safety in case of damaged or missing shingle. If your heating the shed or stable it is strongly suggested and required today in most states that you install ice and water shield membrane. It comes in various widths and roll sizes. You want to install a minimum of 2 widths beginning at the lower edge of your roof. It is sticky and tricky to install but is well worth it. It prevents ice dam build up at the eave edges from the re-freezing of water melted from the heated portion of the roof and the unheated soffit area hanging exterior your wall.

Install your drip edge retention it tightly against the fascia board and nailing it down straight through the roof sheathing. This is a accomplished piece you will see later under the edge of the shingles and helps prevent shingle edge damage. There are so many types of shingles ready it is impossible to characterize them all here. follow the directions on the shingle bundles. Work you way up the roof from one side development sure you keep the shingle tab slots level with one another. Cuts for one end can be used on the other and so on. You will have some scrap left over. Keep them for now. After your drip edge is installed, you must install one row of shingles upside down along the lowest edges of the roof. This will provide a water seal when the first shingle is installed directly over the upside down shingle and you will see the same color underneath the all the tab slots.

With all the shingles installed it is time to install the ridge vent and cap shingles. Make sure your roof shingles do not cover the slot you left in the roof sheathing. If they do, trim them back now. Continuous ridge vents come in many sizes and shapes as well. Some are pre-formed paper, wire mesh, cellulose and many others. They all serve the same function. You considered bend the vent in half and place it along the top of the ridge board over the occasion you left in the plywood. Place a few roofing nails as you go retention it into place. Stop each end of the ridge vent about 8" from the ends of the ridge board. Now get all your leftover and cut shingles. You want to cut the full tab off the shingle to make ridge cap shingles.

Shingles are cut into tabs of 1/3 shingle each. Use 2 nails on each cap shingle lapping each shingle so nails do not show. Place a small whole of roofing tar under first shingle to hold it down so you will not see exposed nails and to prevent wind ftom lifting the first edge. install the ridge cap shingles end to end. Face the shingle ends away from the prevailing winds. If it is a large roof, you may install one-half from each end and end in the middle of the roof. You then cut one smaller tab to use as a closure piece the same color as your shingles and nail all 4 corners. Place a small dab of roofing cement on each nail to prevent water from entering into the nail hole. Basically your shed or stable is done. install the door hardware, windows and trims if you have any. A good coat of paint and your ready to go! All the dimensions I have in case,granted here are samples and are in case,granted as a guide only. Please double check all your dimensions before cutting your lumber and remember to all the time wear safety glasses when using power equipment.

Wood Framing For Your Home Projects

Saturday, July 2, 2011

Homebuilding: Raising Walls

You've just taken some plywood, 2x4 studs, 2x12 header material and some house wrap and transformed them into a wall. Its time to take the fruits of your labor and raise that wall off the deck. Having the right steps in place and manufacture the right moves will make this task go smoothly and safely.

There are a incorporate of procedures that are done during the framing of the wall that play an important part in raising it. Before an face wall is framed, a chalk line is snapped on the deck. If it is a 2x4 wall with 1/2" sheathing, this line will be 4 inches off the edge of the deck. After the wall is framed and before any wall sheathing is nailed to it, the edge of the lowest plate is brought to the line. The end of the wall is brought to the edge of the deck. Once the frame is put in place, it is toe nailed with 8d nails on the inside of the lowest plate. Not only do these hold the wall in place when squaring up the wall, but also keep the wall on the line when raising it.

Carpentry Framing

Once the wall is sheathed with plywood, insulation board, foam board and covered with house wrap you are ready to raise it. In preparing to lift the wall one must be able to get their hands under the top plate. Using a right claw hammer or a prybar under the top plate, lift the wall high sufficient to slip a 2x4 flat under it. This inch and a half space gives you sufficient room for your hands.

If your raising a second story wall it is a good idea to nail stopping blocks to the rim joists. One of the last things you want is the wall being pushed off the edge of the deck. These are scrap pieces of lumber nailed the rim joist with 16d nails. Ideally these should be 16 to 18 inches long and nailed the full width of the joist with 4 16d nails. The equilibrium of the board will stick up above the deck. Put these blocks at each end of the wall. On longer walls you may want to add one to the middle.

Before raising the wall, have all of your bracing material on hand. On a windy day you will want to brace the wall in place as soon as possible. Have sufficient braces (2x4's) to have them nailed on about every 10 feet. You will need blocks to nail to the deck to anchor the braces. These need to be about 20" long and get nailed to the deck through the plywood and into the floor joists with 16d nails. The nails need to go into the joists or there is the risk of the bracing failing in the case of high winds.

Bracing on the ends of the walls can be nailed on before it is raised. Nail one end of a 2x4 (wall stud) about one third of the way down from the top plate, again using 16d nails. Start a nail at the other end of the 2x4 so when the wall is stood up, all one has to do is drive the nail into the rim joist to brace the end of the wall.

With all materials and safeguards in place you can now raise the wall. A good rule of thumb for raising a wall is a set of hands every 8 to 10 feet. This gives everyone a comfortable weight to lift. To save your back, use your legs in the lifting process as much as possible.

Once the wall is raised, nail off the end braces to the rim joists. Next, nail the braces to a stud or window opportunity about a third of the way down from the top plate, about every 8 to 10 feet apart. Next, nail the blocks to the deck alongside the braces that were just nailed the the wall, being sure to catch the floor joists with the nails. With the wall as close to plumb as possible, nail off the anchor end of the brace to the block on the deck. It is important to use 16d nails for all of these steps.

After the wall is raised and braced, the final step is to nail the lowest plate of the wall to the deck. Push or pull the wall to the chalk line that was snapped on the deck. The 8d toe nails and the stopping blocks should have kept the wall very close to this line. Once the plate is brought to the line, nail it off with 16d nails, being sure to hit whether the rim joist or a floor joist. You can now walk away and start an additional one wall.

Remember, homebuilding can be a dangerous and risky occupation or activity. All the time rehearsal caution and protection in all aspects of the building process.

Mike Merisko (C) 2006

http://www.sawkerfs.com

Homebuilding: Raising Walls

You've just taken some plywood, 2x4 studs, 2x12 header material and some house wrap and transformed them into a wall. Its time to take the fruits of your labor and raise that wall off the deck. Having the right steps in place and manufacture the right moves will make this task go smoothly and safely.

There are a incorporate of procedures that are done during the framing of the wall that play an important part in raising it. Before an face wall is framed, a chalk line is snapped on the deck. If it is a 2x4 wall with 1/2" sheathing, this line will be 4 inches off the edge of the deck. After the wall is framed and before any wall sheathing is nailed to it, the edge of the lowest plate is brought to the line. The end of the wall is brought to the edge of the deck. Once the frame is put in place, it is toe nailed with 8d nails on the inside of the lowest plate. Not only do these hold the wall in place when squaring up the wall, but also keep the wall on the line when raising it.

Carpentry Framing

Once the wall is sheathed with plywood, insulation board, foam board and covered with house wrap you are ready to raise it. In preparing to lift the wall one must be able to get their hands under the top plate. Using a right claw hammer or a prybar under the top plate, lift the wall high sufficient to slip a 2x4 flat under it. This inch and a half space gives you sufficient room for your hands.

If your raising a second story wall it is a good idea to nail stopping blocks to the rim joists. One of the last things you want is the wall being pushed off the edge of the deck. These are scrap pieces of lumber nailed the rim joist with 16d nails. Ideally these should be 16 to 18 inches long and nailed the full width of the joist with 4 16d nails. The equilibrium of the board will stick up above the deck. Put these blocks at each end of the wall. On longer walls you may want to add one to the middle.

Before raising the wall, have all of your bracing material on hand. On a windy day you will want to brace the wall in place as soon as possible. Have sufficient braces (2x4's) to have them nailed on about every 10 feet. You will need blocks to nail to the deck to anchor the braces. These need to be about 20" long and get nailed to the deck through the plywood and into the floor joists with 16d nails. The nails need to go into the joists or there is the risk of the bracing failing in the case of high winds.

Bracing on the ends of the walls can be nailed on before it is raised. Nail one end of a 2x4 (wall stud) about one third of the way down from the top plate, again using 16d nails. Start a nail at the other end of the 2x4 so when the wall is stood up, all one has to do is drive the nail into the rim joist to brace the end of the wall.

With all materials and safeguards in place you can now raise the wall. A good rule of thumb for raising a wall is a set of hands every 8 to 10 feet. This gives everyone a comfortable weight to lift. To save your back, use your legs in the lifting process as much as possible.

Once the wall is raised, nail off the end braces to the rim joists. Next, nail the braces to a stud or window opportunity about a third of the way down from the top plate, about every 8 to 10 feet apart. Next, nail the blocks to the deck alongside the braces that were just nailed the the wall, being sure to catch the floor joists with the nails. With the wall as close to plumb as possible, nail off the anchor end of the brace to the block on the deck. It is important to use 16d nails for all of these steps.

After the wall is raised and braced, the final step is to nail the lowest plate of the wall to the deck. Push or pull the wall to the chalk line that was snapped on the deck. The 8d toe nails and the stopping blocks should have kept the wall very close to this line. Once the plate is brought to the line, nail it off with 16d nails, being sure to hit whether the rim joist or a floor joist. You can now walk away and start an additional one wall.

Remember, homebuilding can be a dangerous and risky occupation or activity. All the time rehearsal caution and protection in all aspects of the building process.

Mike Merisko (C) 2006

http://www.sawkerfs.com

Homebuilding: Raising Walls