How to Replace Sash Window Cords

Anyone who owns or lives in a house with customary timber framed sliding sash windows, will know that the operating cords will need replacing at some stage.

Although they have been part of our architectural scene for the best part of three centuries, the basic establish has changed very little.

Carpentry Framing

As a carpenter, I worked for many years on the mend and maintenance of many types of Georgian, Victorian and Edwardian sliding sash windows. Now, it is time to pass on some of the skills that I learned over the years.

The best way that I can do this, is to put it in writing for posterity as I believe these skills will in time be lost, due to the proliferation of modern plastic and aluminum windows.

Having said that, the basic instructions for renewing the cords by which the balancing weights are suspended have not changed much in a good many years, if ever!

So, looking at a sash window from the inside, you will see that the sliding sashes or frames are held in place in the box frame of the window by moulded timber beads (staff beads) at the top, lowest and both sides. They will usually be pinned or nailed, very occasionally screwed to the box-frame of the window, the heads of the nails or pins will usually have been punched in with the holes filled and painted over, development them indiscernible for a cleaner, great finish.

To gain way to the cords and weights, you have to first remove both the side staff beads. When replacing the top sash cords, it is potential to only remove one staff bead, but I prefer to remove both for ease of way and would suggest anything inexperienced to do likewise.

The purpose of these instructions, is for the use of persons of amateur status but having had some former sense of using basic carpentry tools.

When removing a staff bead, it is best to use an old wood chisel, the wider the great and one that you have no qualms about ruining its edge by hitting incommunicable nails, which invariably happens.
Placing the chisel in the groove, in the middle of the staff bead and the box frame, and assault firmly with a standard hammer. Lever the bead away from the box-frame. Repeat this operation at some points from top to lowest of the staff bead. Having loosened the bead sufficiently, it should be easy to spring the bead away from the box-frame. Now repeat the same on the other staff bead.

Next, you need to make sure that you remove all nails from the window frame, and remove any old caulk or filler adhering to the frame, and you can now remove the lower sash frame from the box-frame, having, of policy removed any existing cords first.

When removing existing old cords from the sashes, care must be taken to pull the weights to their highest point and retention the cord tightly, cut it away from the sash with a sharp pair of side cutters and gradually lower the weight as near the lowest of the frame before releasing it. Carelessly dropping larger weights can cause damage to the frame and even corollary in the weight descending into the wall cavity from whence it can be very difficult to extricate!

Then remove all remnants of cord from the sashes, noting the method by which they are attached to the sash, so that you can replace the new cord in the same manner.
Now you can fully remove the inside lowest sash from the box frame.

You will now see a narrow strip on each side of the box frame, running from top to lowest of the frame and set in an eight mm. Groove and separating the two sash frames and also helping to draught proof the window. These are known as parting beads and should fit tightly into their grooves.

Lever these out of their grooves using a sharper wood chisel. To make this easier and to avoid damaging the beads, it is advisable to run a sharp stanley knife down each side of the beads to break the seal of the paint.

Removing these beads will free the outer sash frame, so that any existing cords can be removed as before and the sash can now be remove from the frame. Do not forget to gradually lower the weights as before when removing the cords!

At this stage, it is wise to move the sash frames out of the work area as it is so easy to damage the glass if they are close while you are working on the box frame. I have often had hammers and other tools fall off the window sill and break glass! Not only expensive, but also very time sharp and downright annoying.

On each side of the now empty sash window box frame, you will now see a cut out strip of timber which is known as a pocket. Depending on the health of the window, these may be quite loose fitting and safe bet or they maybe tightly fitted and incommunicable under layers of paint. Either way, they should not be too difficult to uncover and remove. When working on some windows in the same room, it is advisable to estimate these to make it easier when replacing them.

Removing these pockets,will expose the iron or lead weights,which can now be removed. If the size of the weights are different, note their position. Generally, the rear weights will be pound heavier than the front ones to allow for the heavier inside frame which has a much heavier lowest rail. It is very important to replace the weights in their customary positions to ensure the flat carrying out of the sashes.

Before fitting new cords and replacing the weights and pockets, it is time to clean up the box frame. In fact, if any repairs or renovations are planned, now is the time to do it. It being far easier to carry out glass and putty repairs and replacement and to mend any defects to the timber whilst the window is dismantled.

It may also be the time to reconsider additional draught proofing seals, new locks and repainting at the same time.

When replacing the cords, you will need a straightforward home made tool known as a 'mouse', This is just a distance (approx.2 metres) of strong string or thin cord, with a small piece of lead fitted to one end. This must be small adequate to go through the gap the top of the pulleys of your box frame.

First, thread the mouse into the gap at the top of your front pulley and allow it to fall inside the box, now attach a distance of new cord to the other end of the string. Locating the 'mouse' through the pocket, gradually pull the string over the pulley, followed by the new cord down to the pocket, where you can now re-attach the iron weight to the new cord and pull the weight to the top of the frame, cut the cord to the required distance and knot it so that the eight is suspended inside the frame. Repeat this for all four cords and weights.

As a rough guide, when the weight is suspended at the top of the frame, your new cord should be long adequate to reach halfway down the distance of the pocket. This should allow you abundance of cord to thread and knot into the side of your sash frame. (Sometime it is valuable to screw or nail the cord to the sash frame, depending on establish or condition.) To keep the weight suspend at the top, I usually use a panel pin through the cord into the box frame. This also allows you to be hands free when placing the sash frame in position and re-attaching the cord to the sides.

When the cords are re-attached to the front sash frame, they should be long adequate to lower the frame so that the top rail is approx. Half-way down and the lowest rail does not quite reach the outer sill. This is usually a matter of trial and error, but gets easier with practice!

At this stage, the two pockets can be replaced, development sure that they are as flush to the frame as possible. If they are loose fitting, it may be valuable to use a panel pin or two to keep them from hindering the sash frames.

Now replace the parting beads in their grooves and again if loose, panel pins can be used to accumulate them. If the beads are damaged or show signs of rot, it may be best to renew them completely. Most Diy outlets stock this item, also some builders merchants. It will be found though that modern bead is commonly slightly thicker than customary beads and may need to be planed down by a incorporate milimetres.

Now replace the inner or lowest sash frame, development sure that the lowest rail sits tightly on the outer sill, and that the meeting rail is level and that the window catch lines up.

All that remains, is to replace the staff beads, development sure that they are not too tight to allow the sash frames to move, but tight adequate to avoid immoderate movement and rattling in windy weather! To do this, it is best to accumulate the beads with three or four forty millimetre panel pins, only drive the pin about halfway in to start. Use a piece of card or an old reputation or tradecard in the middle of the sash frame and the bead as a spacer, and when you are happy with it, drive the pin home. Job done.

If this is you first time, changing cords, and all is working as it should be, then take pride in the knowledge that you have achieved something worthwhile and learned a skill that not many citizen have. Also, you will have saved a fair bit of money!

How to Replace Sash Window Cords

Anyone who owns or lives in a house with customary timber framed sliding sash windows, will know that the operating cords will need replacing at some stage.

Although they have been part of our architectural scene for the best part of three centuries, the basic establish has changed very little.

Carpentry Framing

As a carpenter, I worked for many years on the mend and maintenance of many types of Georgian, Victorian and Edwardian sliding sash windows. Now, it is time to pass on some of the skills that I learned over the years.

The best way that I can do this, is to put it in writing for posterity as I believe these skills will in time be lost, due to the proliferation of modern plastic and aluminum windows.

Having said that, the basic instructions for renewing the cords by which the balancing weights are suspended have not changed much in a good many years, if ever!

So, looking at a sash window from the inside, you will see that the sliding sashes or frames are held in place in the box frame of the window by moulded timber beads (staff beads) at the top, lowest and both sides. They will usually be pinned or nailed, very occasionally screwed to the box-frame of the window, the heads of the nails or pins will usually have been punched in with the holes filled and painted over, development them indiscernible for a cleaner, great finish.

To gain way to the cords and weights, you have to first remove both the side staff beads. When replacing the top sash cords, it is potential to only remove one staff bead, but I prefer to remove both for ease of way and would suggest anything inexperienced to do likewise.

The purpose of these instructions, is for the use of persons of amateur status but having had some former sense of using basic carpentry tools.

When removing a staff bead, it is best to use an old wood chisel, the wider the great and one that you have no qualms about ruining its edge by hitting incommunicable nails, which invariably happens.
Placing the chisel in the groove, in the middle of the staff bead and the box frame, and assault firmly with a standard hammer. Lever the bead away from the box-frame. Repeat this operation at some points from top to lowest of the staff bead. Having loosened the bead sufficiently, it should be easy to spring the bead away from the box-frame. Now repeat the same on the other staff bead.

Next, you need to make sure that you remove all nails from the window frame, and remove any old caulk or filler adhering to the frame, and you can now remove the lower sash frame from the box-frame, having, of policy removed any existing cords first.

When removing existing old cords from the sashes, care must be taken to pull the weights to their highest point and retention the cord tightly, cut it away from the sash with a sharp pair of side cutters and gradually lower the weight as near the lowest of the frame before releasing it. Carelessly dropping larger weights can cause damage to the frame and even corollary in the weight descending into the wall cavity from whence it can be very difficult to extricate!

Then remove all remnants of cord from the sashes, noting the method by which they are attached to the sash, so that you can replace the new cord in the same manner.
Now you can fully remove the inside lowest sash from the box frame.

You will now see a narrow strip on each side of the box frame, running from top to lowest of the frame and set in an eight mm. Groove and separating the two sash frames and also helping to draught proof the window. These are known as parting beads and should fit tightly into their grooves.

Lever these out of their grooves using a sharper wood chisel. To make this easier and to avoid damaging the beads, it is advisable to run a sharp stanley knife down each side of the beads to break the seal of the paint.

Removing these beads will free the outer sash frame, so that any existing cords can be removed as before and the sash can now be remove from the frame. Do not forget to gradually lower the weights as before when removing the cords!

At this stage, it is wise to move the sash frames out of the work area as it is so easy to damage the glass if they are close while you are working on the box frame. I have often had hammers and other tools fall off the window sill and break glass! Not only expensive, but also very time sharp and downright annoying.

On each side of the now empty sash window box frame, you will now see a cut out strip of timber which is known as a pocket. Depending on the health of the window, these may be quite loose fitting and safe bet or they maybe tightly fitted and incommunicable under layers of paint. Either way, they should not be too difficult to uncover and remove. When working on some windows in the same room, it is advisable to estimate these to make it easier when replacing them.

Removing these pockets,will expose the iron or lead weights,which can now be removed. If the size of the weights are different, note their position. Generally, the rear weights will be pound heavier than the front ones to allow for the heavier inside frame which has a much heavier lowest rail. It is very important to replace the weights in their customary positions to ensure the flat carrying out of the sashes.

Before fitting new cords and replacing the weights and pockets, it is time to clean up the box frame. In fact, if any repairs or renovations are planned, now is the time to do it. It being far easier to carry out glass and putty repairs and replacement and to mend any defects to the timber whilst the window is dismantled.

It may also be the time to reconsider additional draught proofing seals, new locks and repainting at the same time.

When replacing the cords, you will need a straightforward home made tool known as a 'mouse', This is just a distance (approx.2 metres) of strong string or thin cord, with a small piece of lead fitted to one end. This must be small adequate to go through the gap the top of the pulleys of your box frame.

First, thread the mouse into the gap at the top of your front pulley and allow it to fall inside the box, now attach a distance of new cord to the other end of the string. Locating the 'mouse' through the pocket, gradually pull the string over the pulley, followed by the new cord down to the pocket, where you can now re-attach the iron weight to the new cord and pull the weight to the top of the frame, cut the cord to the required distance and knot it so that the eight is suspended inside the frame. Repeat this for all four cords and weights.

As a rough guide, when the weight is suspended at the top of the frame, your new cord should be long adequate to reach halfway down the distance of the pocket. This should allow you abundance of cord to thread and knot into the side of your sash frame. (Sometime it is valuable to screw or nail the cord to the sash frame, depending on establish or condition.) To keep the weight suspend at the top, I usually use a panel pin through the cord into the box frame. This also allows you to be hands free when placing the sash frame in position and re-attaching the cord to the sides.

When the cords are re-attached to the front sash frame, they should be long adequate to lower the frame so that the top rail is approx. Half-way down and the lowest rail does not quite reach the outer sill. This is usually a matter of trial and error, but gets easier with practice!

At this stage, the two pockets can be replaced, development sure that they are as flush to the frame as possible. If they are loose fitting, it may be valuable to use a panel pin or two to keep them from hindering the sash frames.

Now replace the parting beads in their grooves and again if loose, panel pins can be used to accumulate them. If the beads are damaged or show signs of rot, it may be best to renew them completely. Most Diy outlets stock this item, also some builders merchants. It will be found though that modern bead is commonly slightly thicker than customary beads and may need to be planed down by a incorporate milimetres.

Now replace the inner or lowest sash frame, development sure that the lowest rail sits tightly on the outer sill, and that the meeting rail is level and that the window catch lines up.

All that remains, is to replace the staff beads, development sure that they are not too tight to allow the sash frames to move, but tight adequate to avoid immoderate movement and rattling in windy weather! To do this, it is best to accumulate the beads with three or four forty millimetre panel pins, only drive the pin about halfway in to start. Use a piece of card or an old reputation or tradecard in the middle of the sash frame and the bead as a spacer, and when you are happy with it, drive the pin home. Job done.

If this is you first time, changing cords, and all is working as it should be, then take pride in the knowledge that you have achieved something worthwhile and learned a skill that not many citizen have. Also, you will have saved a fair bit of money!

How to Replace Sash Window Cords