Homebuilding: Installing Sill Plates

When construction a house, installing the sill plates correctly
will decide how level and square the accomplished stock
will be.

Hopefully the concrete contractor did his job and left you
with a reasonably level and square foundation. A good
concrete contractor can make a framing contractors job of
building a house a piece of cake. Even if the foundation is
slightly out of square, a good framing contractor can adjust
his sill plates and spoton the problem.

Carpentry Framing

When laying out the sill plates, snap chalk lines on the
biggest square of the foundation. This will ordinarily be the
main part of the house. After snapping the front or back and
one side, check for square. This is really done by using
the 3-4-5 method. Measuring 3' from the corner on the side,
and 4' from the corner on the front or back. Make a pencil
mark on the chalk line at these dimensions. Portion the
distance between these two marks on the diagonal and if
perfectly square will equal 5'. If it is not square, adjust
the shortest of these two lines so that your determination
equals 5'.

Once squared these lines can be used as a reference point to
square and keep parallel other sections of the houses
foundation, like a carport or sunroom. By using the biggest
square Portion of the house, your work will be more
accurate.

After your chalklines are all snapped, your ready to lay the
sill sealer and sill plates. The sill sealer is put on top
of the foundation wall first. This material comes in two
forms. One is very similar to fiberglass wall insulation
except thinner and with the same kraft paper backing. The
other is a 1/4" foam similar to laminate flooring
underlayment. Both materials come in widths to adapt
2x4 and 2x6 sill plates. I prefer the foam sill sealer for
its ease to work with and what I feel will keep drafts and
moisture from penetrating under the sill plate better. Both
sealers are installed butting up to the chalk line to the
inside of the foundation wall. Both are pushed down over
the anchor bolts till it pops through the sealer.

The face close determines the placement of sill plates
on the foundation wall. If the face close is siding,
the sill plates will close flush with the face of the
foundation wall. In this case I like to Portion in the width
of my sill plate, 3 1/2" for a 2x4 and 5 1/2" for a 2x6. If
the face close is brick, the sill plate will be 4 1/2"
from the face edge of the foundation wall.

Holes must be drilled in the plates to install them over the
anchor bolts. These 2x plates are ordinarily required to be
treated lumber to resist rot. To find the bolt hole in the
2x, put the plate up against the anchor bolts. Using a speed
square or a mixture square, put the square on the edge
of the 2x and against the anchor bolt. Hold your pencil
against the squares edge with the lead 1/4" away from the
blade of the square and draw a line. This will give you the
center of the 1/2" anchor bolt along the length of the 2x
plate. To get the town off the edge of the plate, Portion
from the chalkline to the town of the bolt. This will give
you the location to drill the holes in the plate. Drill a
3/4" hole in the plate. This allows some wiggle room to drop
the plate over the anchor bolts which are not always
straight up and down.

Once the holes are drilled in the plate, bolt it down with a
washer and hex nut. Continue the process by butting the next
plate to the one just put down and find the next set of
holes, putting the sill sealer down ahead of the plates. Toe
nail all joints where the plates butt one another.

This is an foremost step when construction a new home. By
installing the sill plates level and square, it gives a
solid reference to ensue when framing the rest of the
house.

(c) Mike Merisko www.sawkerfs.com

Homebuilding: Installing Sill Plates

When construction a house, installing the sill plates correctly
will decide how level and square the accomplished stock
will be.

Hopefully the concrete contractor did his job and left you
with a reasonably level and square foundation. A good
concrete contractor can make a framing contractors job of
building a house a piece of cake. Even if the foundation is
slightly out of square, a good framing contractor can adjust
his sill plates and spoton the problem.

Carpentry Framing

When laying out the sill plates, snap chalk lines on the
biggest square of the foundation. This will ordinarily be the
main part of the house. After snapping the front or back and
one side, check for square. This is really done by using
the 3-4-5 method. Measuring 3' from the corner on the side,
and 4' from the corner on the front or back. Make a pencil
mark on the chalk line at these dimensions. Portion the
distance between these two marks on the diagonal and if
perfectly square will equal 5'. If it is not square, adjust
the shortest of these two lines so that your determination
equals 5'.

Once squared these lines can be used as a reference point to
square and keep parallel other sections of the houses
foundation, like a carport or sunroom. By using the biggest
square Portion of the house, your work will be more
accurate.

After your chalklines are all snapped, your ready to lay the
sill sealer and sill plates. The sill sealer is put on top
of the foundation wall first. This material comes in two
forms. One is very similar to fiberglass wall insulation
except thinner and with the same kraft paper backing. The
other is a 1/4" foam similar to laminate flooring
underlayment. Both materials come in widths to adapt
2x4 and 2x6 sill plates. I prefer the foam sill sealer for
its ease to work with and what I feel will keep drafts and
moisture from penetrating under the sill plate better. Both
sealers are installed butting up to the chalk line to the
inside of the foundation wall. Both are pushed down over
the anchor bolts till it pops through the sealer.

The face close determines the placement of sill plates
on the foundation wall. If the face close is siding,
the sill plates will close flush with the face of the
foundation wall. In this case I like to Portion in the width
of my sill plate, 3 1/2" for a 2x4 and 5 1/2" for a 2x6. If
the face close is brick, the sill plate will be 4 1/2"
from the face edge of the foundation wall.

Holes must be drilled in the plates to install them over the
anchor bolts. These 2x plates are ordinarily required to be
treated lumber to resist rot. To find the bolt hole in the
2x, put the plate up against the anchor bolts. Using a speed
square or a mixture square, put the square on the edge
of the 2x and against the anchor bolt. Hold your pencil
against the squares edge with the lead 1/4" away from the
blade of the square and draw a line. This will give you the
center of the 1/2" anchor bolt along the length of the 2x
plate. To get the town off the edge of the plate, Portion
from the chalkline to the town of the bolt. This will give
you the location to drill the holes in the plate. Drill a
3/4" hole in the plate. This allows some wiggle room to drop
the plate over the anchor bolts which are not always
straight up and down.

Once the holes are drilled in the plate, bolt it down with a
washer and hex nut. Continue the process by butting the next
plate to the one just put down and find the next set of
holes, putting the sill sealer down ahead of the plates. Toe
nail all joints where the plates butt one another.

This is an foremost step when construction a new home. By
installing the sill plates level and square, it gives a
solid reference to ensue when framing the rest of the
house.

(c) Mike Merisko www.sawkerfs.com

Homebuilding: Installing Sill Plates

Homebuilding: Setting Basement Steel

One of the first steps in the construction of a new home is
setting the steel beams and columns in the basement and/or crawl
space. This supports the floor joists and regularly runs the distance
of the house at mid span in most homes. Not only does this theory
support the floor, but regularly has the weight of bearing walls,
ceilings, second floors, second floor bearing walls and sometimes
roofs transfered down to it.

The first step is to setup the sill plates on the foundation
wall . This gives you a place to nail 2x4 bracing to hold columns and beams in place while you setup them. Once set in place these braces hold the steel till the floor joists are nailed in to take their place.

Carpentry Framing

Before I continue, a word of caution. Homebuilding can be a
dangerous activity. Care and protection are a must in all phases of
the construction process. Setting steel without fail falls into
this category. Beams can weigh everywhere from 100 to 400 pounds
depending on their size and length. Beams can be lifted into
place manually but I would propose the use of a crane. Not only
can the beams be put in place safely, but it can also quicken the
process.

With the sill plates in place the steel can be set. One end of
the first beam typically starts in a beam pocket formed into the
top of the foundation wall. The other end sits on top of a lally
column. A typical column is 3 1/2" in diameter and filled with
concrete. It has a flange welded to the top with holes in it that
match holes in the lowest flange of the beam. The beam is lowered
onto the column and then bolted together.

To make this happen, I like to use four people. One to hold the
beam in the pocket, one to hold the column, one man on a ladder
to guide and bolt the beam onto the column and one man to nail
off bracing to sill plates. Braces (2x4's) are laid flat on the
bottom flange of the beam on both sides of the web and then
nailed to the sill plates on opposing walls.

The next beam is now ready to be set. With one person holding the
next column, the next beam is lowered onto the new column and the
previous column. Men on ladders guide it into place and bolt it
down. Again 2x4's are used to brace the beam to the outside
foundation walls. This policy is repeated until you get to a
beam pocket at the other end of the building, or a column that
terminates at an opening.

To keep beams level and straight, I like to use a dry line from
beam pocket to beam pocket (this can also be done with a laser).
First I drive a nail in the sill plate corresponding with the
edge of the beam. Most beams run pocket to pocket. If this is the
case I'll drive a nail in the plate by that pocket at the same
dimension as the first nail, measured from a coarse reference
point, regularly the front or back sill plate. I now have a
reference point to line up the edge of the beams with and result
in a straight installation.

Assuming the foundation and sill plates are level, this string
can be used to level the steel beams (again, a laser can be
used). After most beam installations a 2x plate is whether bolted
or shot with a powder actuated tool to the top of the beam. This
is to bring it level with the sill plates and to provide nailing
for the floor joists. Using a 2x block as a gauge, lay it on the
top of the beam where it sits on a column. This simulates the
plate that will be installed later. Shim the column till the
block touches the lowest of the dry line. Repeat this for every
column. Columns are shimmed with steel plates of assorted
thicknesses. These shims are provided by the steel supplier.

The next step is to plumb the lally columns on their concrete
pads. Using a 4-foot level, the columns are tapped into plumb
with a sledge hammer. Make sure the steel shims remain under the
columns. After all columns are plumbed up, the concrete floor can
be poured. This holds the columns in place.

The next step is to frame the floor. Once the floor joists are
nailed in place all bracing can be removed. The joists are now
holding the steel in place.

Just like the foundation, setting the steel straight and level is
important to producing a potential home.

(c) Mike Merisko www.sawkerfs.com

Homebuilding: Setting Basement Steel

One of the first steps in the construction of a new home is
setting the steel beams and columns in the basement and/or crawl
space. This supports the floor joists and regularly runs the distance
of the house at mid span in most homes. Not only does this theory
support the floor, but regularly has the weight of bearing walls,
ceilings, second floors, second floor bearing walls and sometimes
roofs transfered down to it.

The first step is to setup the sill plates on the foundation
wall . This gives you a place to nail 2x4 bracing to hold columns and beams in place while you setup them. Once set in place these braces hold the steel till the floor joists are nailed in to take their place.

Carpentry Framing

Before I continue, a word of caution. Homebuilding can be a
dangerous activity. Care and protection are a must in all phases of
the construction process. Setting steel without fail falls into
this category. Beams can weigh everywhere from 100 to 400 pounds
depending on their size and length. Beams can be lifted into
place manually but I would propose the use of a crane. Not only
can the beams be put in place safely, but it can also quicken the
process.

With the sill plates in place the steel can be set. One end of
the first beam typically starts in a beam pocket formed into the
top of the foundation wall. The other end sits on top of a lally
column. A typical column is 3 1/2" in diameter and filled with
concrete. It has a flange welded to the top with holes in it that
match holes in the lowest flange of the beam. The beam is lowered
onto the column and then bolted together.

To make this happen, I like to use four people. One to hold the
beam in the pocket, one to hold the column, one man on a ladder
to guide and bolt the beam onto the column and one man to nail
off bracing to sill plates. Braces (2x4's) are laid flat on the
bottom flange of the beam on both sides of the web and then
nailed to the sill plates on opposing walls.

The next beam is now ready to be set. With one person holding the
next column, the next beam is lowered onto the new column and the
previous column. Men on ladders guide it into place and bolt it
down. Again 2x4's are used to brace the beam to the outside
foundation walls. This policy is repeated until you get to a
beam pocket at the other end of the building, or a column that
terminates at an opening.

To keep beams level and straight, I like to use a dry line from
beam pocket to beam pocket (this can also be done with a laser).
First I drive a nail in the sill plate corresponding with the
edge of the beam. Most beams run pocket to pocket. If this is the
case I'll drive a nail in the plate by that pocket at the same
dimension as the first nail, measured from a coarse reference
point, regularly the front or back sill plate. I now have a
reference point to line up the edge of the beams with and result
in a straight installation.

Assuming the foundation and sill plates are level, this string
can be used to level the steel beams (again, a laser can be
used). After most beam installations a 2x plate is whether bolted
or shot with a powder actuated tool to the top of the beam. This
is to bring it level with the sill plates and to provide nailing
for the floor joists. Using a 2x block as a gauge, lay it on the
top of the beam where it sits on a column. This simulates the
plate that will be installed later. Shim the column till the
block touches the lowest of the dry line. Repeat this for every
column. Columns are shimmed with steel plates of assorted
thicknesses. These shims are provided by the steel supplier.

The next step is to plumb the lally columns on their concrete
pads. Using a 4-foot level, the columns are tapped into plumb
with a sledge hammer. Make sure the steel shims remain under the
columns. After all columns are plumbed up, the concrete floor can
be poured. This holds the columns in place.

The next step is to frame the floor. Once the floor joists are
nailed in place all bracing can be removed. The joists are now
holding the steel in place.

Just like the foundation, setting the steel straight and level is
important to producing a potential home.

(c) Mike Merisko www.sawkerfs.com

Homebuilding: Setting Basement Steel

Homebuilding: Laying Tongue and Groove Plywood

You have just terminated framing the first floor deck for a brand new
home and your ready to start putting down the 3/4" tongue and
groove plywood. If you framed it well and got your 16" centers
laid out right, the process should go plane as silk. The key to
success is in the framing of the joists.

The first step in laying plywood over the floor joists is to snap
a chalk line. This gives you a level line to follow. I all the time
snap this line at 48 1/4" in off the edge of the rim joist. This
ensures that in the course of premise the plywood (which is
48" wide) will not hang over the edge of the rim joist. It
doesn't matter either you start in the front or back of the
house.
For best results, start where you have the longest run without a
jog in or out in the foundation.

Carpentry Framing

After you have snapped your line, determine which joist the first
sheet of plywood will break. If the joists where laid out 16"
o.c. (on center) from the end of the building, the edge of the
plywood would split the joist at 8 feet. Sometimes the roof
layout determines the floor joist layout. This is regularly the
case when the roof is a hip roof. In this instance start with the
joist that will allow the plywood to cover all the joists, even
if it hangs over the edge of the first joist. This will be cut
off later.

After you have carefully where to start, apply construction
adhesive to the top edge of the joists. Apply no more than 48"
the width of the plywood. Lay the first sheet in the glue with
the groove edge on the chalk line. Holding the sheet to the line,
nail the foremost edge of the plywood to the rim joist so it
splits the joist. You'll be exterior 3/4 of an inch of the joist
with 3/4" exposed. Still Holding the plywood to the chalk line,
put a nail in the rim joist at the first joist.
Now put nails in the rim joist where the floor joists are nailed
into it. When nailing off the field these nails can be used as a
guide to find the joists.

Now the groove edge can be nailed. On the foremost edge, move the
joist so the edge of the plywood splits the joist. Once you have
the joist where you want it, nail the plywood to it. Now taking
your tape measure, hook the foremost edge of the joist you just
nailed, and pull it along the edge of the plywood. Mark 16"
centers on the plywood and pull the foremost edge of the joists to
this mark and nail them. This will help keep the joists in line
and will help make sure hereafter course of plywood break on 16"
centers no matter which joist you start with.

Glue up the joists for the next sheet. Butt the next sheet to the
one previously installed, development sure to hold it to the chalk
line and nail the groove edge corner. Nail it to the rim joist
just like the first sheet. Once again move the joist so the
plywood splits it. Hook that joist with your tape, mark centers
and move the joists to the lines. Keep laying the plywood in this
fashion to the other end of the building.

Your now ready for the next course of plywood. If I've started
with a full 96" sheet on my first course, I like to start my
second row with a 48" piece. This works great if the construction
length is in increments of 4 feet (24',28',32',36' etc.). This
isn't all the time the case. If the construction is an odd distance you can
usually use your ending cutoff to start the next course. Stagger
the joints a minimum of 32" apart.

Start the next course by gluing the joists. Do not apply the glue
more than 4' beyond the first course of plywood. Stand the sheet
on its tongue edge next to the groove edge of the sheet you are
standing on. Make sure its butt edge is lined up on the joist it
is breaking on and let it fall into the glue. As it hits the
glued up joists, step on it and try to pull it in with your foot.
Only under the right conditions will the tongue go fully
into the groove. Sometimes the sheet can be jumped into the
groove. This involves standing on the sheet and jump with force
towards the the sheets in the former row. In most cases it
takes a sledgehammer and a 4' to 6' 2x4 beater block to persuade
the sheets together. The block keeps the groove edge from getting
damaged by the sledge. This is a two someone operation. One stands
on the tongue edge of the plywood to guide the sheet into the
groove while the swings the sledgehammer. This will be the
process for the rest of the installation.

Once the piece is in place, nail off the tongue edge, development sure
the foremost edge is breaking on a joist. Move the joist so the
groove edge breaks on the joist. Pull 16" centers from that
joist, mark the plywood, move the joists if necessary, and nail
them off.

To keep the joists at the ends of the construction straight, do not
glue or nail them. Ideally we'd like the plywood to be hanging
over the ends. After all the plywood is in place, snap a line
from one corner to the other and cut this over hanging plywood
off. Move this joist to the cut edge to make it level and nail
it off.

Tips:

-Field can be nailed as you go (recommended to set sheet in
glue)
or after all plywood is in place.

-do not glue more than 4' out from sheet. Keeps glue off your
tape
when you pull centers.

-When nailing groove edge, nail at least 2" from edge to keep
from
collapsing groove.

-Before installing plywood, check for damaged grooves and
tongues.

Mike Merisko (c) 2006

http://www.sawkerfs.com

Homebuilding: Laying Tongue and Groove Plywood

You have just terminated framing the first floor deck for a brand new
home and your ready to start putting down the 3/4" tongue and
groove plywood. If you framed it well and got your 16" centers
laid out right, the process should go plane as silk. The key to
success is in the framing of the joists.

The first step in laying plywood over the floor joists is to snap
a chalk line. This gives you a level line to follow. I all the time
snap this line at 48 1/4" in off the edge of the rim joist. This
ensures that in the course of premise the plywood (which is
48" wide) will not hang over the edge of the rim joist. It
doesn't matter either you start in the front or back of the
house.
For best results, start where you have the longest run without a
jog in or out in the foundation.

Carpentry Framing

After you have snapped your line, determine which joist the first
sheet of plywood will break. If the joists where laid out 16"
o.c. (on center) from the end of the building, the edge of the
plywood would split the joist at 8 feet. Sometimes the roof
layout determines the floor joist layout. This is regularly the
case when the roof is a hip roof. In this instance start with the
joist that will allow the plywood to cover all the joists, even
if it hangs over the edge of the first joist. This will be cut
off later.

After you have carefully where to start, apply construction
adhesive to the top edge of the joists. Apply no more than 48"
the width of the plywood. Lay the first sheet in the glue with
the groove edge on the chalk line. Holding the sheet to the line,
nail the foremost edge of the plywood to the rim joist so it
splits the joist. You'll be exterior 3/4 of an inch of the joist
with 3/4" exposed. Still Holding the plywood to the chalk line,
put a nail in the rim joist at the first joist.
Now put nails in the rim joist where the floor joists are nailed
into it. When nailing off the field these nails can be used as a
guide to find the joists.

Now the groove edge can be nailed. On the foremost edge, move the
joist so the edge of the plywood splits the joist. Once you have
the joist where you want it, nail the plywood to it. Now taking
your tape measure, hook the foremost edge of the joist you just
nailed, and pull it along the edge of the plywood. Mark 16"
centers on the plywood and pull the foremost edge of the joists to
this mark and nail them. This will help keep the joists in line
and will help make sure hereafter course of plywood break on 16"
centers no matter which joist you start with.

Glue up the joists for the next sheet. Butt the next sheet to the
one previously installed, development sure to hold it to the chalk
line and nail the groove edge corner. Nail it to the rim joist
just like the first sheet. Once again move the joist so the
plywood splits it. Hook that joist with your tape, mark centers
and move the joists to the lines. Keep laying the plywood in this
fashion to the other end of the building.

Your now ready for the next course of plywood. If I've started
with a full 96" sheet on my first course, I like to start my
second row with a 48" piece. This works great if the construction
length is in increments of 4 feet (24',28',32',36' etc.). This
isn't all the time the case. If the construction is an odd distance you can
usually use your ending cutoff to start the next course. Stagger
the joints a minimum of 32" apart.

Start the next course by gluing the joists. Do not apply the glue
more than 4' beyond the first course of plywood. Stand the sheet
on its tongue edge next to the groove edge of the sheet you are
standing on. Make sure its butt edge is lined up on the joist it
is breaking on and let it fall into the glue. As it hits the
glued up joists, step on it and try to pull it in with your foot.
Only under the right conditions will the tongue go fully
into the groove. Sometimes the sheet can be jumped into the
groove. This involves standing on the sheet and jump with force
towards the the sheets in the former row. In most cases it
takes a sledgehammer and a 4' to 6' 2x4 beater block to persuade
the sheets together. The block keeps the groove edge from getting
damaged by the sledge. This is a two someone operation. One stands
on the tongue edge of the plywood to guide the sheet into the
groove while the swings the sledgehammer. This will be the
process for the rest of the installation.

Once the piece is in place, nail off the tongue edge, development sure
the foremost edge is breaking on a joist. Move the joist so the
groove edge breaks on the joist. Pull 16" centers from that
joist, mark the plywood, move the joists if necessary, and nail
them off.

To keep the joists at the ends of the construction straight, do not
glue or nail them. Ideally we'd like the plywood to be hanging
over the ends. After all the plywood is in place, snap a line
from one corner to the other and cut this over hanging plywood
off. Move this joist to the cut edge to make it level and nail
it off.

Tips:

-Field can be nailed as you go (recommended to set sheet in
glue)
or after all plywood is in place.

-do not glue more than 4' out from sheet. Keeps glue off your
tape
when you pull centers.

-When nailing groove edge, nail at least 2" from edge to keep
from
collapsing groove.

-Before installing plywood, check for damaged grooves and
tongues.

Mike Merisko (c) 2006

http://www.sawkerfs.com

Homebuilding: Laying Tongue and Groove Plywood

Homebuilding: Raising Walls

You've just taken some plywood, 2x4 studs, 2x12 header material and some house wrap and transformed them into a wall. Its time to take the fruits of your labor and raise that wall off the deck. Having the right steps in place and manufacture the right moves will make this task go smoothly and safely.

There are a incorporate of procedures that are done during the framing of the wall that play an important part in raising it. Before an face wall is framed, a chalk line is snapped on the deck. If it is a 2x4 wall with 1/2" sheathing, this line will be 4 inches off the edge of the deck. After the wall is framed and before any wall sheathing is nailed to it, the edge of the lowest plate is brought to the line. The end of the wall is brought to the edge of the deck. Once the frame is put in place, it is toe nailed with 8d nails on the inside of the lowest plate. Not only do these hold the wall in place when squaring up the wall, but also keep the wall on the line when raising it.

Carpentry Framing

Once the wall is sheathed with plywood, insulation board, foam board and covered with house wrap you are ready to raise it. In preparing to lift the wall one must be able to get their hands under the top plate. Using a right claw hammer or a prybar under the top plate, lift the wall high sufficient to slip a 2x4 flat under it. This inch and a half space gives you sufficient room for your hands.

If your raising a second story wall it is a good idea to nail stopping blocks to the rim joists. One of the last things you want is the wall being pushed off the edge of the deck. These are scrap pieces of lumber nailed the rim joist with 16d nails. Ideally these should be 16 to 18 inches long and nailed the full width of the joist with 4 16d nails. The equilibrium of the board will stick up above the deck. Put these blocks at each end of the wall. On longer walls you may want to add one to the middle.

Before raising the wall, have all of your bracing material on hand. On a windy day you will want to brace the wall in place as soon as possible. Have sufficient braces (2x4's) to have them nailed on about every 10 feet. You will need blocks to nail to the deck to anchor the braces. These need to be about 20" long and get nailed to the deck through the plywood and into the floor joists with 16d nails. The nails need to go into the joists or there is the risk of the bracing failing in the case of high winds.

Bracing on the ends of the walls can be nailed on before it is raised. Nail one end of a 2x4 (wall stud) about one third of the way down from the top plate, again using 16d nails. Start a nail at the other end of the 2x4 so when the wall is stood up, all one has to do is drive the nail into the rim joist to brace the end of the wall.

With all materials and safeguards in place you can now raise the wall. A good rule of thumb for raising a wall is a set of hands every 8 to 10 feet. This gives everyone a comfortable weight to lift. To save your back, use your legs in the lifting process as much as possible.

Once the wall is raised, nail off the end braces to the rim joists. Next, nail the braces to a stud or window opportunity about a third of the way down from the top plate, about every 8 to 10 feet apart. Next, nail the blocks to the deck alongside the braces that were just nailed the the wall, being sure to catch the floor joists with the nails. With the wall as close to plumb as possible, nail off the anchor end of the brace to the block on the deck. It is important to use 16d nails for all of these steps.

After the wall is raised and braced, the final step is to nail the lowest plate of the wall to the deck. Push or pull the wall to the chalk line that was snapped on the deck. The 8d toe nails and the stopping blocks should have kept the wall very close to this line. Once the plate is brought to the line, nail it off with 16d nails, being sure to hit whether the rim joist or a floor joist. You can now walk away and start an additional one wall.

Remember, homebuilding can be a dangerous and risky occupation or activity. All the time rehearsal caution and protection in all aspects of the building process.

Mike Merisko (C) 2006

http://www.sawkerfs.com

Homebuilding: Raising Walls

You've just taken some plywood, 2x4 studs, 2x12 header material and some house wrap and transformed them into a wall. Its time to take the fruits of your labor and raise that wall off the deck. Having the right steps in place and manufacture the right moves will make this task go smoothly and safely.

There are a incorporate of procedures that are done during the framing of the wall that play an important part in raising it. Before an face wall is framed, a chalk line is snapped on the deck. If it is a 2x4 wall with 1/2" sheathing, this line will be 4 inches off the edge of the deck. After the wall is framed and before any wall sheathing is nailed to it, the edge of the lowest plate is brought to the line. The end of the wall is brought to the edge of the deck. Once the frame is put in place, it is toe nailed with 8d nails on the inside of the lowest plate. Not only do these hold the wall in place when squaring up the wall, but also keep the wall on the line when raising it.

Carpentry Framing

Once the wall is sheathed with plywood, insulation board, foam board and covered with house wrap you are ready to raise it. In preparing to lift the wall one must be able to get their hands under the top plate. Using a right claw hammer or a prybar under the top plate, lift the wall high sufficient to slip a 2x4 flat under it. This inch and a half space gives you sufficient room for your hands.

If your raising a second story wall it is a good idea to nail stopping blocks to the rim joists. One of the last things you want is the wall being pushed off the edge of the deck. These are scrap pieces of lumber nailed the rim joist with 16d nails. Ideally these should be 16 to 18 inches long and nailed the full width of the joist with 4 16d nails. The equilibrium of the board will stick up above the deck. Put these blocks at each end of the wall. On longer walls you may want to add one to the middle.

Before raising the wall, have all of your bracing material on hand. On a windy day you will want to brace the wall in place as soon as possible. Have sufficient braces (2x4's) to have them nailed on about every 10 feet. You will need blocks to nail to the deck to anchor the braces. These need to be about 20" long and get nailed to the deck through the plywood and into the floor joists with 16d nails. The nails need to go into the joists or there is the risk of the bracing failing in the case of high winds.

Bracing on the ends of the walls can be nailed on before it is raised. Nail one end of a 2x4 (wall stud) about one third of the way down from the top plate, again using 16d nails. Start a nail at the other end of the 2x4 so when the wall is stood up, all one has to do is drive the nail into the rim joist to brace the end of the wall.

With all materials and safeguards in place you can now raise the wall. A good rule of thumb for raising a wall is a set of hands every 8 to 10 feet. This gives everyone a comfortable weight to lift. To save your back, use your legs in the lifting process as much as possible.

Once the wall is raised, nail off the end braces to the rim joists. Next, nail the braces to a stud or window opportunity about a third of the way down from the top plate, about every 8 to 10 feet apart. Next, nail the blocks to the deck alongside the braces that were just nailed the the wall, being sure to catch the floor joists with the nails. With the wall as close to plumb as possible, nail off the anchor end of the brace to the block on the deck. It is important to use 16d nails for all of these steps.

After the wall is raised and braced, the final step is to nail the lowest plate of the wall to the deck. Push or pull the wall to the chalk line that was snapped on the deck. The 8d toe nails and the stopping blocks should have kept the wall very close to this line. Once the plate is brought to the line, nail it off with 16d nails, being sure to hit whether the rim joist or a floor joist. You can now walk away and start an additional one wall.

Remember, homebuilding can be a dangerous and risky occupation or activity. All the time rehearsal caution and protection in all aspects of the building process.

Mike Merisko (C) 2006

http://www.sawkerfs.com

Homebuilding: Raising Walls