Process of Installing a Stand Up Shower

Whether replacing an inconvenient and little-used bathtub, or adding a premise in a previously un-plumbed area, installing a stand up shower is one of the simplest and easiest projects the home restorer can take on. The process is straight-forward and the cost minimal. All the big-box Home shop have all you will need for the job.

If a tub is being replaced, the old one needs to be removed, along with the subflooring which will categorically be damaged and infected with mold from water getting past the caulking around the tub. This is a good time to put a new floor, vinyl or tile, in the bathroom; half of the work is already done. You can use the existing plumbing, with some modification, when a tub is replaced. If it is a stand up shower in a new location, a drain pipe and the hot and cold water pipes will have to be run to the room. In most jurisdictions a licensed plumber will have to do this part of the job, and an inspector brought in to sign off on it.

Carpentry Framing

Once the new subfloor is installed, and the needful drywall replaced, the shower tray can be installed. The recipe of premise varies with the tray design. Some will want a cement or mortar base underneath the tray, some are strong enough to sit directly on the floor without flexing. Practically all want the use of a mastic as a final step to keep the tray from sharp around. A standup shower needs to be able to bear the weight of any person without flexing and breaking the caulk bead.

The caulk bead is the most leading part of any bath installation. Great care taken now, at the premise of the standup shower, will make future repairs unnecessary. Care must also be taken in the caulking around the shower controls. They are designed to stay dry inside if they are installed correctly, so these are some instructions that categorically need to be read carefully.

If the space ready for the shower is larger than the shower pan that is selected, then some creative carpentry and tilework can be used to heighten the usefulness of the installation. One beloved choice is to frame up a bench or seat that can be tiled to match the rest of the room, rendering the standup shower also a sit-down shower, for those who need one.

Process of Installing a Stand Up Shower

Whether replacing an inconvenient and little-used bathtub, or adding a premise in a previously un-plumbed area, installing a stand up shower is one of the simplest and easiest projects the home restorer can take on. The process is straight-forward and the cost minimal. All the big-box Home shop have all you will need for the job.

If a tub is being replaced, the old one needs to be removed, along with the subflooring which will categorically be damaged and infected with mold from water getting past the caulking around the tub. This is a good time to put a new floor, vinyl or tile, in the bathroom; half of the work is already done. You can use the existing plumbing, with some modification, when a tub is replaced. If it is a stand up shower in a new location, a drain pipe and the hot and cold water pipes will have to be run to the room. In most jurisdictions a licensed plumber will have to do this part of the job, and an inspector brought in to sign off on it.

Carpentry Framing

Once the new subfloor is installed, and the needful drywall replaced, the shower tray can be installed. The recipe of premise varies with the tray design. Some will want a cement or mortar base underneath the tray, some are strong enough to sit directly on the floor without flexing. Practically all want the use of a mastic as a final step to keep the tray from sharp around. A standup shower needs to be able to bear the weight of any person without flexing and breaking the caulk bead.

The caulk bead is the most leading part of any bath installation. Great care taken now, at the premise of the standup shower, will make future repairs unnecessary. Care must also be taken in the caulking around the shower controls. They are designed to stay dry inside if they are installed correctly, so these are some instructions that categorically need to be read carefully.

If the space ready for the shower is larger than the shower pan that is selected, then some creative carpentry and tilework can be used to heighten the usefulness of the installation. One beloved choice is to frame up a bench or seat that can be tiled to match the rest of the room, rendering the standup shower also a sit-down shower, for those who need one.

Process of Installing a Stand Up Shower

Installing Vinyl Siding - development It uncomplicated

Installing vinyl siding can be a very rewarding process that could dramatically change the appearance of your home. For the most part, if you plan your job well and cleave to some simple guide lines, anyone could learn how to setup siding to there home.

The first thing to think when installing vinyl siding [http://www.vinyl-siding-n-windows.com] is what tools will be needed for the job. Basically with some base carpenter tools, like a, hammer, level, chalk line, screw driver set, tin snips and a good circular saw you can pretty much accomplish what it is you need to do. But if you plan on production a profession out of it, expect to pay in the thousands for a properly adequate truck.

Carpentry Framing

After you have gathered your tools, you will need to derive your materials to get ready the job. Below you will find a list of some underlying items needed to start your siding project.

Sheathing/Backerboard

Vinyl siding should be applied over a sheathing that provides a smooth, flat surface. Since every district has separate code requirements you may want to consult local building codes for sheathing requirements. Vinyl siding should never be applied directly to framing studs without sheathing. As an alternative to backer board, there is a variety of specific types of contoured foam under lays available for various styles of vinyl siding.

Weather defiant Barrier

Vinyl siding should be installed over a continuous weather defiant barrier to stop the intrusion of incidental water. Weather defiant barrier systems ordinarily consist of a combination of face cladding, flashed wall openings and penetrations, weather defiant barrier material, and sheathing. ordinarily used is black carpentry felt. When using felt be sure to check thickness requirements.

Flashing

Code-compliant flashing should be integrated with the weather defiant barrier and applied colse to windows, doors, and other openings. Flashing should also be applied to inside and face corners, and the intersection of walls and roofing to forestall water seepage straight through the joints.

Once your face wall has been covered with sheathing to furnish a flat flat surface, and your windows and doors have had flashing installed to channel any incidental water from collecting, you may now setup the starter strip. This strip is an accessory applied directly to the face of the building at the bottom part of the wall to be sided, and is used to derive the first procedure of siding to the home. This procedure will need to be checked for level as it is what the rest of the job relies upon for evenness.

With aluminum, galvanized steel, or other corrosion-resistant nails, you may now start installing the vinyl siding. As each style of panel may be separate refer to factory instructions supplied. Cut the panels to length with a circular saw and trim with tin snips. As you nail the panels in place, be sure to leave about the thickness of as dime in the middle of the nail head and wall to allow for shifting. Check every 5th or 6th procedure for horizontal alignment. When portions overlap you must have about 1" to seal the joint.

The basic factory of vinyl siding is quite simple, but since there are codes governing how definite aspects are handled, you should request with a pro for specific trimming tasks and other more involved vinyl siding factory practices.

All in all, you will find the task of re-siding your home manageable with only a few frustrations to maintain with. But the recompense will be well worth it.

Installing Vinyl Siding - development It uncomplicated

Installing vinyl siding can be a very rewarding process that could dramatically change the appearance of your home. For the most part, if you plan your job well and cleave to some simple guide lines, anyone could learn how to setup siding to there home.

The first thing to think when installing vinyl siding [http://www.vinyl-siding-n-windows.com] is what tools will be needed for the job. Basically with some base carpenter tools, like a, hammer, level, chalk line, screw driver set, tin snips and a good circular saw you can pretty much accomplish what it is you need to do. But if you plan on production a profession out of it, expect to pay in the thousands for a properly adequate truck.

Carpentry Framing

After you have gathered your tools, you will need to derive your materials to get ready the job. Below you will find a list of some underlying items needed to start your siding project.

Sheathing/Backerboard

Vinyl siding should be applied over a sheathing that provides a smooth, flat surface. Since every district has separate code requirements you may want to consult local building codes for sheathing requirements. Vinyl siding should never be applied directly to framing studs without sheathing. As an alternative to backer board, there is a variety of specific types of contoured foam under lays available for various styles of vinyl siding.

Weather defiant Barrier

Vinyl siding should be installed over a continuous weather defiant barrier to stop the intrusion of incidental water. Weather defiant barrier systems ordinarily consist of a combination of face cladding, flashed wall openings and penetrations, weather defiant barrier material, and sheathing. ordinarily used is black carpentry felt. When using felt be sure to check thickness requirements.

Flashing

Code-compliant flashing should be integrated with the weather defiant barrier and applied colse to windows, doors, and other openings. Flashing should also be applied to inside and face corners, and the intersection of walls and roofing to forestall water seepage straight through the joints.

Once your face wall has been covered with sheathing to furnish a flat flat surface, and your windows and doors have had flashing installed to channel any incidental water from collecting, you may now setup the starter strip. This strip is an accessory applied directly to the face of the building at the bottom part of the wall to be sided, and is used to derive the first procedure of siding to the home. This procedure will need to be checked for level as it is what the rest of the job relies upon for evenness.

With aluminum, galvanized steel, or other corrosion-resistant nails, you may now start installing the vinyl siding. As each style of panel may be separate refer to factory instructions supplied. Cut the panels to length with a circular saw and trim with tin snips. As you nail the panels in place, be sure to leave about the thickness of as dime in the middle of the nail head and wall to allow for shifting. Check every 5th or 6th procedure for horizontal alignment. When portions overlap you must have about 1" to seal the joint.

The basic factory of vinyl siding is quite simple, but since there are codes governing how definite aspects are handled, you should request with a pro for specific trimming tasks and other more involved vinyl siding factory practices.

All in all, you will find the task of re-siding your home manageable with only a few frustrations to maintain with. But the recompense will be well worth it.

Installing Vinyl Siding - development It uncomplicated

Installing Pre-Formed Laminate Counter Tops: The Pitfalls

The installation of pre-formed laminate kitchen counters can be both simple and difficult. If you are working with a particular piece, the type with the backsplash already attached to the counter top, and the piece is right and does not need to be forced between two walls, the task is commonly fairly easy. If the counter has to be assembled, on the other hand, or must be fit into a tight or an awkward space, the situation can be challenging, and even frustrating.

The first step is to use a framing quadrate to check how right the walls are. If the walls are not straight, the laminate counter material will not fit into the space the way you hoped it would. The first time we installed a laminate counter top, the mitered end had a 3/8" gap when pushed against the wall, which was going to need quite a bit of work. Poor fits like this are often caused by poor framing, which can cause bulges in the surface walls, or by the natural warping and twisting of lumber over time.

Carpentry Framing

Finish carpentry can involve many extra techniques that work colse to common situations such as this, or when seemingly quadrate rooms are not, or when floors are not level. Nothing ever works quite the way it was improbable to, and thusly, expecting to fit 100" of cabinetry into 100" of blue-print space is like expecting pigs to fly, or hell to ice over.

In the case of our ill-fitted pre-formed laminate counter top, the best thing to do is to use a power sander, in order to take off some of the backsplash to make the counter fit flush against the wall. Someone else choice is to cut away the bowing drywall, but both options appear in the same way; as a narrow spot along the backsplash, which is only commonly about 1" thick.

If your pre-formed laminate counter top material is going in the kitchen, you will more than likely have to cut yourself a sink hole, which involves marking the town of the piece with masking tape, checking the front-to-back position, and finally, cutting. If the hole is too far forward, sink installation will be interfered with. On the other hand, if the hole is too far back, the backsplash and the edge of the sink will interfere. It is leading to check and double check all measurements and markings before cutting, as once you have made a mistake, the whole sheet of laminate is wasted.

Installing Pre-Formed Laminate Counter Tops: The Pitfalls

The installation of pre-formed laminate kitchen counters can be both simple and difficult. If you are working with a particular piece, the type with the backsplash already attached to the counter top, and the piece is right and does not need to be forced between two walls, the task is commonly fairly easy. If the counter has to be assembled, on the other hand, or must be fit into a tight or an awkward space, the situation can be challenging, and even frustrating.

The first step is to use a framing quadrate to check how right the walls are. If the walls are not straight, the laminate counter material will not fit into the space the way you hoped it would. The first time we installed a laminate counter top, the mitered end had a 3/8" gap when pushed against the wall, which was going to need quite a bit of work. Poor fits like this are often caused by poor framing, which can cause bulges in the surface walls, or by the natural warping and twisting of lumber over time.

Carpentry Framing

Finish carpentry can involve many extra techniques that work colse to common situations such as this, or when seemingly quadrate rooms are not, or when floors are not level. Nothing ever works quite the way it was improbable to, and thusly, expecting to fit 100" of cabinetry into 100" of blue-print space is like expecting pigs to fly, or hell to ice over.

In the case of our ill-fitted pre-formed laminate counter top, the best thing to do is to use a power sander, in order to take off some of the backsplash to make the counter fit flush against the wall. Someone else choice is to cut away the bowing drywall, but both options appear in the same way; as a narrow spot along the backsplash, which is only commonly about 1" thick.

If your pre-formed laminate counter top material is going in the kitchen, you will more than likely have to cut yourself a sink hole, which involves marking the town of the piece with masking tape, checking the front-to-back position, and finally, cutting. If the hole is too far forward, sink installation will be interfered with. On the other hand, if the hole is too far back, the backsplash and the edge of the sink will interfere. It is leading to check and double check all measurements and markings before cutting, as once you have made a mistake, the whole sheet of laminate is wasted.

Installing Pre-Formed Laminate Counter Tops: The Pitfalls

Installing Baseboard Trim Tips and Techniques

Installing baseboard is one of the easier facets of conclude carpentry. By studying just this part of conclude carpentry you will be surprised at how easy and fast you pick up the other aspects concerning trimming. For instance, taking the basics of installing baseboard and applying them to installing shoe or quarter round or even chair rail and crown molding nothing else but works. In a sense it is the plat form or starting point to studying this trade. Of procedure installing doors and casing doors and trimming windows is a miniature more complex but is not nothing else but that tough with a miniature explore or guidance. This data for explore is all over the web and is free, abundant and invaluable for learning. Here are some quick tips for installing baseboard.

When installing baseboard where hereafter rug will be installed you want to keep the baseboard up off the floor so the rug can be tucked in under the baseboard. The way to deal with this is to cut a few short pieces of baseboard about 3 inches long or so and lay them down next to the wall so the piece of baseboard that will be installed and nailed in place rests on these short pieces. This will create a space about 3/8 of an inch under the baseboard after it is installed.

Carpentry Framing

When you come up to a 90 degree surface angle all the time trial fit the baseboard in place and let the baseboard run past the corner. Then take your pencil and trace the angle up the back of the baseboard. This will give you the exact measurement of where to cut. When you cut this piece all the time try to split your pencil line with the blade and for a 90 degree angle cut this piece at exactly 46 degrees. Sheet rock corners are never exquisite and your line most likely won't be perfectly vertical on the back of the baseboard so split the line at the most outer point or at the longest point.

When you come to an inside angle there are a concentrate ways to deal with these. One way is to miter the joint. The other way and most favorite is coping the joint. Coping is cleaner and neater finding and just plain easier. To start from the starting for doing a cope read careful, you only cope one piece and that is the second piece that leads out of the corner.

The first piece of baseboard goes squarely and tightly against and into the corner. Then the actual cope goes onto the second piece of baseboard that meets the first piece that was previously installed. Take this second piece of baseboard and make a 45 degree back cut on the end that goes into the corner. On this piece there will be a natural cut line or profile line. Simply use a coping saw and cut off the material by following this natural profile line.
This will create the exact profile of the baseboard and this piece will fit exactly into the first piece like a glove. When you are cutting with the coping saw be sure to be creating a bevel so the back of the baseboard is slightly shorter then the face or front.

For quick nailing or attaching baseboard to a wall a stud finder works well. You nothing else but need to be hitting studs every time so the baseboard is get and stays securely fastened. Any way if you do not have a stud finder another quick recipe is by Simply using your tape measure.
Find one stud in the wall towards the town of the wall, then on your tape measure the 16 inch increments are well marked, just lay your tape down the length of the wall and put one of the 16 inch increments at this one stud. Then at each 16 inch increment shoot a nail through the base and into the wall. You should hit a stud every time in case,granted the wall studs are framed at 16 inches on center. Some times walls are framed at 2 feet on town and some times the framing may be off slightly so check the baseboard after each time you nail to be sure it is secure.

There are other tips and tricks to installing baseboard but by just doing it and getting more custom these miniature tricks can and will be picked up Simply and automatically. Roughly everybody develops their own miniature unique techniques when studying and doing conclude carpentry.

Installing Baseboard Trim Tips and Techniques

Installing baseboard is one of the easier facets of conclude carpentry. By studying just this part of conclude carpentry you will be surprised at how easy and fast you pick up the other aspects concerning trimming. For instance, taking the basics of installing baseboard and applying them to installing shoe or quarter round or even chair rail and crown molding nothing else but works. In a sense it is the plat form or starting point to studying this trade. Of procedure installing doors and casing doors and trimming windows is a miniature more complex but is not nothing else but that tough with a miniature explore or guidance. This data for explore is all over the web and is free, abundant and invaluable for learning. Here are some quick tips for installing baseboard.

When installing baseboard where hereafter rug will be installed you want to keep the baseboard up off the floor so the rug can be tucked in under the baseboard. The way to deal with this is to cut a few short pieces of baseboard about 3 inches long or so and lay them down next to the wall so the piece of baseboard that will be installed and nailed in place rests on these short pieces. This will create a space about 3/8 of an inch under the baseboard after it is installed.

Carpentry Framing

When you come up to a 90 degree surface angle all the time trial fit the baseboard in place and let the baseboard run past the corner. Then take your pencil and trace the angle up the back of the baseboard. This will give you the exact measurement of where to cut. When you cut this piece all the time try to split your pencil line with the blade and for a 90 degree angle cut this piece at exactly 46 degrees. Sheet rock corners are never exquisite and your line most likely won't be perfectly vertical on the back of the baseboard so split the line at the most outer point or at the longest point.

When you come to an inside angle there are a concentrate ways to deal with these. One way is to miter the joint. The other way and most favorite is coping the joint. Coping is cleaner and neater finding and just plain easier. To start from the starting for doing a cope read careful, you only cope one piece and that is the second piece that leads out of the corner.

The first piece of baseboard goes squarely and tightly against and into the corner. Then the actual cope goes onto the second piece of baseboard that meets the first piece that was previously installed. Take this second piece of baseboard and make a 45 degree back cut on the end that goes into the corner. On this piece there will be a natural cut line or profile line. Simply use a coping saw and cut off the material by following this natural profile line.
This will create the exact profile of the baseboard and this piece will fit exactly into the first piece like a glove. When you are cutting with the coping saw be sure to be creating a bevel so the back of the baseboard is slightly shorter then the face or front.

For quick nailing or attaching baseboard to a wall a stud finder works well. You nothing else but need to be hitting studs every time so the baseboard is get and stays securely fastened. Any way if you do not have a stud finder another quick recipe is by Simply using your tape measure.
Find one stud in the wall towards the town of the wall, then on your tape measure the 16 inch increments are well marked, just lay your tape down the length of the wall and put one of the 16 inch increments at this one stud. Then at each 16 inch increment shoot a nail through the base and into the wall. You should hit a stud every time in case,granted the wall studs are framed at 16 inches on center. Some times walls are framed at 2 feet on town and some times the framing may be off slightly so check the baseboard after each time you nail to be sure it is secure.

There are other tips and tricks to installing baseboard but by just doing it and getting more custom these miniature tricks can and will be picked up Simply and automatically. Roughly everybody develops their own miniature unique techniques when studying and doing conclude carpentry.

Installing Baseboard Trim Tips and Techniques

Installing Windows in New construction

Installing a window in a freshly framed opening is one of the more simple tasks in a building project.

Most new building windows have what is called a nailing fin. These are found on vinyl or aluminum clad windows. This nailing fin is either vinyl or metal and has nail holes every 4 to 6 inches and about 1 and 1/2 inches wide. Nailing fins take the place of brick moulding which can still be found on primed wooden windows.

Carpentry Framing

Not only do these fins make facility easier, but also make a great seal against water and air infiltration. These windows can be flashed if desired but not deemed necessary. A window that does not have the advantage of a soffit or porch roof above it may need flashing or a drip edge above it.

When getting ready to setup a window, make sure the sheathing is not hanging into the rough opening. This could cut down the size of the opening and not let the window go into the opening. Once this is done, portion the rough opening to make sure the it is big adequate for the window. You don't want to lift a heavy window to an opening only to find it won't fit. Rough openings are commonly 1" wider and 1/2" taller than the window unit. Rough openings are spect and in case,granted by the window manufacturer.

Depending on the size of the window, you'll need 2 or 3 habitancy to setup a window. One or two exterior and one inside.

Once you know the window fits, lift it to the opening from the outside. Set it on the sill and push it into the opening until the nail fins hit the wall. Make sure none of the fins folded themselves back into the opening especially the bottom one. The man on the inside then centers the window in the opening. Then using a level, checks it for plumb and level, and applies shims where needed. You may also want to check the window for square, although a window that's accomplished and in the locked position commonly is. The window can now be nailed in. My preference is roofing nails but 8d nails or cap nails will do the job.

If it is a suitable jamb (4 9/16) other thing to check is how far it runs past the rough framing. This should be 1/2 inch. You'll also want to make sure the window operates properly. Duplicate hungs should slide up and down really and casements should crank in and out without hanging up.

(C) 2005 Mike Merisko http://www.sawkerfs.com

Installing Windows in New construction

Installing a window in a freshly framed opening is one of the more simple tasks in a building project.

Most new building windows have what is called a nailing fin. These are found on vinyl or aluminum clad windows. This nailing fin is either vinyl or metal and has nail holes every 4 to 6 inches and about 1 and 1/2 inches wide. Nailing fins take the place of brick moulding which can still be found on primed wooden windows.

Carpentry Framing

Not only do these fins make facility easier, but also make a great seal against water and air infiltration. These windows can be flashed if desired but not deemed necessary. A window that does not have the advantage of a soffit or porch roof above it may need flashing or a drip edge above it.

When getting ready to setup a window, make sure the sheathing is not hanging into the rough opening. This could cut down the size of the opening and not let the window go into the opening. Once this is done, portion the rough opening to make sure the it is big adequate for the window. You don't want to lift a heavy window to an opening only to find it won't fit. Rough openings are commonly 1" wider and 1/2" taller than the window unit. Rough openings are spect and in case,granted by the window manufacturer.

Depending on the size of the window, you'll need 2 or 3 habitancy to setup a window. One or two exterior and one inside.

Once you know the window fits, lift it to the opening from the outside. Set it on the sill and push it into the opening until the nail fins hit the wall. Make sure none of the fins folded themselves back into the opening especially the bottom one. The man on the inside then centers the window in the opening. Then using a level, checks it for plumb and level, and applies shims where needed. You may also want to check the window for square, although a window that's accomplished and in the locked position commonly is. The window can now be nailed in. My preference is roofing nails but 8d nails or cap nails will do the job.

If it is a suitable jamb (4 9/16) other thing to check is how far it runs past the rough framing. This should be 1/2 inch. You'll also want to make sure the window operates properly. Duplicate hungs should slide up and down really and casements should crank in and out without hanging up.

(C) 2005 Mike Merisko http://www.sawkerfs.com

Installing Windows in New construction

Homebuilding: Installing Sill Plates

When construction a house, installing the sill plates correctly
will decide how level and square the accomplished stock
will be.

Hopefully the concrete contractor did his job and left you
with a reasonably level and square foundation. A good
concrete contractor can make a framing contractors job of
building a house a piece of cake. Even if the foundation is
slightly out of square, a good framing contractor can adjust
his sill plates and spoton the problem.

Carpentry Framing

When laying out the sill plates, snap chalk lines on the
biggest square of the foundation. This will ordinarily be the
main part of the house. After snapping the front or back and
one side, check for square. This is really done by using
the 3-4-5 method. Measuring 3' from the corner on the side,
and 4' from the corner on the front or back. Make a pencil
mark on the chalk line at these dimensions. Portion the
distance between these two marks on the diagonal and if
perfectly square will equal 5'. If it is not square, adjust
the shortest of these two lines so that your determination
equals 5'.

Once squared these lines can be used as a reference point to
square and keep parallel other sections of the houses
foundation, like a carport or sunroom. By using the biggest
square Portion of the house, your work will be more
accurate.

After your chalklines are all snapped, your ready to lay the
sill sealer and sill plates. The sill sealer is put on top
of the foundation wall first. This material comes in two
forms. One is very similar to fiberglass wall insulation
except thinner and with the same kraft paper backing. The
other is a 1/4" foam similar to laminate flooring
underlayment. Both materials come in widths to adapt
2x4 and 2x6 sill plates. I prefer the foam sill sealer for
its ease to work with and what I feel will keep drafts and
moisture from penetrating under the sill plate better. Both
sealers are installed butting up to the chalk line to the
inside of the foundation wall. Both are pushed down over
the anchor bolts till it pops through the sealer.

The face close determines the placement of sill plates
on the foundation wall. If the face close is siding,
the sill plates will close flush with the face of the
foundation wall. In this case I like to Portion in the width
of my sill plate, 3 1/2" for a 2x4 and 5 1/2" for a 2x6. If
the face close is brick, the sill plate will be 4 1/2"
from the face edge of the foundation wall.

Holes must be drilled in the plates to install them over the
anchor bolts. These 2x plates are ordinarily required to be
treated lumber to resist rot. To find the bolt hole in the
2x, put the plate up against the anchor bolts. Using a speed
square or a mixture square, put the square on the edge
of the 2x and against the anchor bolt. Hold your pencil
against the squares edge with the lead 1/4" away from the
blade of the square and draw a line. This will give you the
center of the 1/2" anchor bolt along the length of the 2x
plate. To get the town off the edge of the plate, Portion
from the chalkline to the town of the bolt. This will give
you the location to drill the holes in the plate. Drill a
3/4" hole in the plate. This allows some wiggle room to drop
the plate over the anchor bolts which are not always
straight up and down.

Once the holes are drilled in the plate, bolt it down with a
washer and hex nut. Continue the process by butting the next
plate to the one just put down and find the next set of
holes, putting the sill sealer down ahead of the plates. Toe
nail all joints where the plates butt one another.

This is an foremost step when construction a new home. By
installing the sill plates level and square, it gives a
solid reference to ensue when framing the rest of the
house.

(c) Mike Merisko www.sawkerfs.com

Homebuilding: Installing Sill Plates

When construction a house, installing the sill plates correctly
will decide how level and square the accomplished stock
will be.

Hopefully the concrete contractor did his job and left you
with a reasonably level and square foundation. A good
concrete contractor can make a framing contractors job of
building a house a piece of cake. Even if the foundation is
slightly out of square, a good framing contractor can adjust
his sill plates and spoton the problem.

Carpentry Framing

When laying out the sill plates, snap chalk lines on the
biggest square of the foundation. This will ordinarily be the
main part of the house. After snapping the front or back and
one side, check for square. This is really done by using
the 3-4-5 method. Measuring 3' from the corner on the side,
and 4' from the corner on the front or back. Make a pencil
mark on the chalk line at these dimensions. Portion the
distance between these two marks on the diagonal and if
perfectly square will equal 5'. If it is not square, adjust
the shortest of these two lines so that your determination
equals 5'.

Once squared these lines can be used as a reference point to
square and keep parallel other sections of the houses
foundation, like a carport or sunroom. By using the biggest
square Portion of the house, your work will be more
accurate.

After your chalklines are all snapped, your ready to lay the
sill sealer and sill plates. The sill sealer is put on top
of the foundation wall first. This material comes in two
forms. One is very similar to fiberglass wall insulation
except thinner and with the same kraft paper backing. The
other is a 1/4" foam similar to laminate flooring
underlayment. Both materials come in widths to adapt
2x4 and 2x6 sill plates. I prefer the foam sill sealer for
its ease to work with and what I feel will keep drafts and
moisture from penetrating under the sill plate better. Both
sealers are installed butting up to the chalk line to the
inside of the foundation wall. Both are pushed down over
the anchor bolts till it pops through the sealer.

The face close determines the placement of sill plates
on the foundation wall. If the face close is siding,
the sill plates will close flush with the face of the
foundation wall. In this case I like to Portion in the width
of my sill plate, 3 1/2" for a 2x4 and 5 1/2" for a 2x6. If
the face close is brick, the sill plate will be 4 1/2"
from the face edge of the foundation wall.

Holes must be drilled in the plates to install them over the
anchor bolts. These 2x plates are ordinarily required to be
treated lumber to resist rot. To find the bolt hole in the
2x, put the plate up against the anchor bolts. Using a speed
square or a mixture square, put the square on the edge
of the 2x and against the anchor bolt. Hold your pencil
against the squares edge with the lead 1/4" away from the
blade of the square and draw a line. This will give you the
center of the 1/2" anchor bolt along the length of the 2x
plate. To get the town off the edge of the plate, Portion
from the chalkline to the town of the bolt. This will give
you the location to drill the holes in the plate. Drill a
3/4" hole in the plate. This allows some wiggle room to drop
the plate over the anchor bolts which are not always
straight up and down.

Once the holes are drilled in the plate, bolt it down with a
washer and hex nut. Continue the process by butting the next
plate to the one just put down and find the next set of
holes, putting the sill sealer down ahead of the plates. Toe
nail all joints where the plates butt one another.

This is an foremost step when construction a new home. By
installing the sill plates level and square, it gives a
solid reference to ensue when framing the rest of the
house.

(c) Mike Merisko www.sawkerfs.com

Homebuilding: Installing Sill Plates

Prefabricated Shower Stalls - Tips For Installing

Installing a prefabricated shower stall often turns out to be a tricky and time-consuming job that takes great practical skill, yet with sensible pre-planning and the right tools for the job, a expert consequent can be obtained by the mean home-handyman. Allow 3-4 days to complete the work and brush up on your carpentry, plumbing, wall-preparation and finishing skills because you're going to need them all!

To begin with, make sure you have the right equipment and tools before you begin the job. Importantly, buy the shower stall before building the frame it will fit in in order to get correct dimensions.

Carpentry Framing

You will need: a prefabricated shower, galvanic drill, plumb level, tape measure, caulk, screws, hole saw, shower/tub adhesive, tape, pencil, leather work gloves, hammer, work boots and an adjustable wrench. Protective eye-wear is also highly advisable (wear when using power tools.)

Getting the prefab shower into position can be the tricky part. You will need to fit it straight through an existing doorway or an covering window. In some instances, part of an covering wall may have to be removed in order to get the unit inside; seek expert advice first if required.

Because prefabricated shower stalls have watertight walls, cement-based backer boards are not needed.

It is advisable to install insulation in the middle of the studs in order to cut plumbing noise.

When drilling holes in the unit's walls to fit the faucet and shower arm, quantum carefully in progress and all the time wear protective eye-wear when drilling.

Position parts carefully and attach the unit to the framing. The drain piece, shower handle, escutcheon, and shower-head all need to be fitted correctly to preclude leakages and hereafter problems. All seams need to be caulked efficiently and a acceptable checking of any leaks needs specific attention; later corrections to any plumbing faults can be difficult to carry out.

Finally, discontinue the walls and fit a shower door or curtain bar. It is vital that you seal the joints in the middle of the bathroom walls and floor and shower enclosure with a good capability silicone! Installing water-resistant drywall colse to the top edge of the shower stall can be a wise, long-term investment; tiling the top edge is also a great idea as it will likely last a lot longer than wallpaper or paintwork.

If you aren't adept in skills like demolition, plumbing and drywalling, you may be best served by employing a noteworthy expert to carry out these tasks.

As a final reminder, installing prefabricated shower stalls can be quite fiddly and time-consuming. The plumbing especially has to be completed with some expertise in order to have a sound unit. Yet having said all this, a victorious shower premise is achievable if you take your time, check well for any leaks and consult an specialist for advice if the need arises.

Good luck!

Prefabricated Shower Stalls - Tips For Installing

Installing a prefabricated shower stall often turns out to be a tricky and time-consuming job that takes great practical skill, yet with sensible pre-planning and the right tools for the job, a expert consequent can be obtained by the mean home-handyman. Allow 3-4 days to complete the work and brush up on your carpentry, plumbing, wall-preparation and finishing skills because you're going to need them all!

To begin with, make sure you have the right equipment and tools before you begin the job. Importantly, buy the shower stall before building the frame it will fit in in order to get correct dimensions.

Carpentry Framing

You will need: a prefabricated shower, galvanic drill, plumb level, tape measure, caulk, screws, hole saw, shower/tub adhesive, tape, pencil, leather work gloves, hammer, work boots and an adjustable wrench. Protective eye-wear is also highly advisable (wear when using power tools.)

Getting the prefab shower into position can be the tricky part. You will need to fit it straight through an existing doorway or an covering window. In some instances, part of an covering wall may have to be removed in order to get the unit inside; seek expert advice first if required.

Because prefabricated shower stalls have watertight walls, cement-based backer boards are not needed.

It is advisable to install insulation in the middle of the studs in order to cut plumbing noise.

When drilling holes in the unit's walls to fit the faucet and shower arm, quantum carefully in progress and all the time wear protective eye-wear when drilling.

Position parts carefully and attach the unit to the framing. The drain piece, shower handle, escutcheon, and shower-head all need to be fitted correctly to preclude leakages and hereafter problems. All seams need to be caulked efficiently and a acceptable checking of any leaks needs specific attention; later corrections to any plumbing faults can be difficult to carry out.

Finally, discontinue the walls and fit a shower door or curtain bar. It is vital that you seal the joints in the middle of the bathroom walls and floor and shower enclosure with a good capability silicone! Installing water-resistant drywall colse to the top edge of the shower stall can be a wise, long-term investment; tiling the top edge is also a great idea as it will likely last a lot longer than wallpaper or paintwork.

If you aren't adept in skills like demolition, plumbing and drywalling, you may be best served by employing a noteworthy expert to carry out these tasks.

As a final reminder, installing prefabricated shower stalls can be quite fiddly and time-consuming. The plumbing especially has to be completed with some expertise in order to have a sound unit. Yet having said all this, a victorious shower premise is achievable if you take your time, check well for any leaks and consult an specialist for advice if the need arises.

Good luck!

Prefabricated Shower Stalls - Tips For Installing

Installing Ceramic Tile Yourself - Is It Possible?

Installing ceramic tile yourself will save you money and keep strangers out of your house! You learn a new skill by doing it yourself too. Ceramic tile factory projects are tackled successfully by many home owners every year. No doubt there is an art to laying tile, but a handy someone who has abundance of time can unquestionably learn to lay tile. Just like many home revising projects, pros make money by doing work fast. If you aren't in a big hurry, your potential of work can be just as good as a professional...maybe better. So what are the main steps for a tile job?

Layout and Estimating

Carpentry Framing

What kind of factory is this? Will there be some plumbing or carpentry required? Plan for the completion of those tasks. quantum the area to be covered so you know how much tile you need. Allow for trim and breakage. After you know your area, you can best shop for tile. If you have a budget, knowing the area of tile to be covered lets you speculate your cost as you shop for tile. Do you need any trim pieces? Often edges, like ceramic tile counter tops, are trimmed with hardwood. Bathroom ceramic tile might include towel racks or soap dishes.

Ceramic Tile factory Tools

Hand tools for installing ceramic tile include trowels, cutters and measuring instruments. Trowels needed vary with the jobs. A basic trowel is the rectangular notched trowel. This tool is used to spread the adhesive. The trowel notches let the installer gauge the thickness of the adhesive. A smaller margin trowel is for information work. Tile cutting is a critical function. The basic cutter is a nipper, which is especially used for information work. A cutter board is often used for right cuts, The cutter board scores tile to make it easy to break. A circular wet saw is the real workhorse of a professional. Saws come in all separate grades and sizes. You can find an cheap saw that will be right for your job.

Adhesive

Tile is stuck to the floor using an adhesive. The material is either ready mixed or a wettable powder. Your provider can advise a grade for your project. Many adhesives are latex based and some are even stain proof and water proof epoxy. Epoxy grout is especially good for shower pans or bathroom ceramic tile.

Laying the Tile

Tile is always laid over a carport base that will not shift much. Often cement board is put down as a base, since cement board is water defiant and stable. Once the base is installed you can put down lines to help align the tile. Of course, no room is perfectly square, so allow for misalignment as you start your job. search the pieces that must be cut in the least visible areas. Sometimes, beginning at one wall or one side will look best. Sometimes beginning in the middle of a outside will be better. That's where the art of laying tile enters.

The alignment of the tile edges determines how the accomplished job looks. Beware that allowance tiles often vary in size more than superior material, production alignment tougher. Use a chalk line to give you as many guide lines as you need. Then you can space the tiles by eye or use regular plastic spacers in the middle of pieces to help you.

Grout

After the tile is in place including all the trim, you fill the spaces with a masonry grout. Grout for larger spacing includes sand. The sand makes the grout stronger and less likely to crack. Grout comes in colors too. Grout is installed and spread with a extra rubber faced trowel. After the grout is installed, you take off it from the tile faces before it wholly dries.

Installing Ceramic Tile Yourself - Is It Possible?

Installing ceramic tile yourself will save you money and keep strangers out of your house! You learn a new skill by doing it yourself too. Ceramic tile factory projects are tackled successfully by many home owners every year. No doubt there is an art to laying tile, but a handy someone who has abundance of time can unquestionably learn to lay tile. Just like many home revising projects, pros make money by doing work fast. If you aren't in a big hurry, your potential of work can be just as good as a professional...maybe better. So what are the main steps for a tile job?

Layout and Estimating

Carpentry Framing

What kind of factory is this? Will there be some plumbing or carpentry required? Plan for the completion of those tasks. quantum the area to be covered so you know how much tile you need. Allow for trim and breakage. After you know your area, you can best shop for tile. If you have a budget, knowing the area of tile to be covered lets you speculate your cost as you shop for tile. Do you need any trim pieces? Often edges, like ceramic tile counter tops, are trimmed with hardwood. Bathroom ceramic tile might include towel racks or soap dishes.

Ceramic Tile factory Tools

Hand tools for installing ceramic tile include trowels, cutters and measuring instruments. Trowels needed vary with the jobs. A basic trowel is the rectangular notched trowel. This tool is used to spread the adhesive. The trowel notches let the installer gauge the thickness of the adhesive. A smaller margin trowel is for information work. Tile cutting is a critical function. The basic cutter is a nipper, which is especially used for information work. A cutter board is often used for right cuts, The cutter board scores tile to make it easy to break. A circular wet saw is the real workhorse of a professional. Saws come in all separate grades and sizes. You can find an cheap saw that will be right for your job.

Adhesive

Tile is stuck to the floor using an adhesive. The material is either ready mixed or a wettable powder. Your provider can advise a grade for your project. Many adhesives are latex based and some are even stain proof and water proof epoxy. Epoxy grout is especially good for shower pans or bathroom ceramic tile.

Laying the Tile

Tile is always laid over a carport base that will not shift much. Often cement board is put down as a base, since cement board is water defiant and stable. Once the base is installed you can put down lines to help align the tile. Of course, no room is perfectly square, so allow for misalignment as you start your job. search the pieces that must be cut in the least visible areas. Sometimes, beginning at one wall or one side will look best. Sometimes beginning in the middle of a outside will be better. That's where the art of laying tile enters.

The alignment of the tile edges determines how the accomplished job looks. Beware that allowance tiles often vary in size more than superior material, production alignment tougher. Use a chalk line to give you as many guide lines as you need. Then you can space the tiles by eye or use regular plastic spacers in the middle of pieces to help you.

Grout

After the tile is in place including all the trim, you fill the spaces with a masonry grout. Grout for larger spacing includes sand. The sand makes the grout stronger and less likely to crack. Grout comes in colors too. Grout is installed and spread with a extra rubber faced trowel. After the grout is installed, you take off it from the tile faces before it wholly dries.

Installing Ceramic Tile Yourself - Is It Possible?

Installing An exterior Door

Installing an outside door is one of the easiest of all door installations. Either the door is installed in new building or in a transfer situation, there are a few factors that make this an easy task.

The biggest guess this is a simple execution is that these doors come prehung. What this means is the door is already hung in its jamb. The hinges are mortised into the door and jamb and screwed in place. The door is held in position by the hinge pins, leaving the perfect enumerate colse to the door and the jambs top and sides. The holes are also bored for the lockset and if necessary, for the deadbolt too. outside doors come in wood, fiberglass, and the most popular, steel. The two sizes are ordinarily used for outside doors are 32" and 36". With the sizes of todays furniture and appliances the smart option is the 36" door. The approved height for a door is 6'8" but taller ones can be special ordered.

Carpentry Framing

The outside trim comes nailed to the jamb. This trim, called brickmoulding, is mitred and already installed, rescue the installer(s) another step. These doors also have an aluminum threshold already attached to the legs of the jambs. All these things make the door and jamb one cohesive unit.

The approved jamb size is 4 and 1/2 inches wide. With the examine for a higher insulation R value in outside walls, 2x6 framing is being used more frequently. Jambs to fit these walls, 6 1/2 inches, are becoming more common. Jamb widths can be made to order for whatever a projects needs are and would cost more.

To setup an outside door, first check to see if the rough chance is correct. The width of the chance should be 2" wider than the door itself (38" for a 36" door, 34" for a 32" door). For a rough chance height 83" will suffice for most door manufacturers. Also check to see if the framing and floor is reasonably plumb.

Door factory is easier with 2 people but can be done alone. Put the door in the chance from the outside. If you are working alone, tack the door to the wall straight through the brickmoulding, not driving the nails home. I like to use galvenized ring shank splitless nails that are used for cedar siding. They don't split the wood and the smaller heads are not as confident to the eye. The ring shank feature gives them great keeping power.

With the door tacked in the opening, go to the inside of the door and check the reveals colse to the door. There should be about an eighth of an inch all colse to the door. Shim the jambs of the door so the reveals are right. Check the door jamb on the hinge side for plumb. If it is not plumb, then the floor is out of level. One jamb leg or the other will need to be shimmed so the threshold is level. Now readjust the reveals by curious the door and jambs sideways in the chance to a point where the reveals are right. Once the door and jamb are in position, shim the jamb at each hinge and at the strike, top and bottom on the attack side. Nail the shims in place by nailing straight through the jamb, straight through the shims and into the framing. Check the door swing to see if it opens and closes properly. If all is well, go outside and nail straight through the brickmould using the splitless nails to nail the door frame to the house.

Most door manufacturers furnish long screws that replace some of the shorter screws in the hinges on the jamb. The top hinge is the most foremost place to use one or two of these screws.
These screws go straight through the jamb and into the framing and keep the door from sagging over time.

Most doors come with an adjustable threshold. This may have to be adjusted up or down to generate an airtight seal.

With the door securely in the opening, it is ready for door hardware installation.

Mike Merisko (c) 2007

Installing An exterior Door

Installing an outside door is one of the easiest of all door installations. Either the door is installed in new building or in a transfer situation, there are a few factors that make this an easy task.

The biggest guess this is a simple execution is that these doors come prehung. What this means is the door is already hung in its jamb. The hinges are mortised into the door and jamb and screwed in place. The door is held in position by the hinge pins, leaving the perfect enumerate colse to the door and the jambs top and sides. The holes are also bored for the lockset and if necessary, for the deadbolt too. outside doors come in wood, fiberglass, and the most popular, steel. The two sizes are ordinarily used for outside doors are 32" and 36". With the sizes of todays furniture and appliances the smart option is the 36" door. The approved height for a door is 6'8" but taller ones can be special ordered.

Carpentry Framing

The outside trim comes nailed to the jamb. This trim, called brickmoulding, is mitred and already installed, rescue the installer(s) another step. These doors also have an aluminum threshold already attached to the legs of the jambs. All these things make the door and jamb one cohesive unit.

The approved jamb size is 4 and 1/2 inches wide. With the examine for a higher insulation R value in outside walls, 2x6 framing is being used more frequently. Jambs to fit these walls, 6 1/2 inches, are becoming more common. Jamb widths can be made to order for whatever a projects needs are and would cost more.

To setup an outside door, first check to see if the rough chance is correct. The width of the chance should be 2" wider than the door itself (38" for a 36" door, 34" for a 32" door). For a rough chance height 83" will suffice for most door manufacturers. Also check to see if the framing and floor is reasonably plumb.

Door factory is easier with 2 people but can be done alone. Put the door in the chance from the outside. If you are working alone, tack the door to the wall straight through the brickmoulding, not driving the nails home. I like to use galvenized ring shank splitless nails that are used for cedar siding. They don't split the wood and the smaller heads are not as confident to the eye. The ring shank feature gives them great keeping power.

With the door tacked in the opening, go to the inside of the door and check the reveals colse to the door. There should be about an eighth of an inch all colse to the door. Shim the jambs of the door so the reveals are right. Check the door jamb on the hinge side for plumb. If it is not plumb, then the floor is out of level. One jamb leg or the other will need to be shimmed so the threshold is level. Now readjust the reveals by curious the door and jambs sideways in the chance to a point where the reveals are right. Once the door and jamb are in position, shim the jamb at each hinge and at the strike, top and bottom on the attack side. Nail the shims in place by nailing straight through the jamb, straight through the shims and into the framing. Check the door swing to see if it opens and closes properly. If all is well, go outside and nail straight through the brickmould using the splitless nails to nail the door frame to the house.

Most door manufacturers furnish long screws that replace some of the shorter screws in the hinges on the jamb. The top hinge is the most foremost place to use one or two of these screws.
These screws go straight through the jamb and into the framing and keep the door from sagging over time.

Most doors come with an adjustable threshold. This may have to be adjusted up or down to generate an airtight seal.

With the door securely in the opening, it is ready for door hardware installation.

Mike Merisko (c) 2007

Installing An exterior Door

Installing a Roof? - The Basic Steps

If you're looking for information on installing a roof, you've come to the right place. Although every step doesn't apply to every project, here is an summary of the basics...

Installing a Roof: Step #1 - Planning
Who's going to do the work?What type of roofing will you install?When will you do the work?Where will you get the roofing materials?Why select one type of roofing over another?How will you tiptoe with the work?
Installing a Roof: Step #2 - Estimating
Create a "birds-eye" sketch of the roof. Measure the slope of the roof. Measure the length of every hip, ridge, valley, eave and rake. Measure the rafter length of each roof section. Determine size and type of pipes, vents and other flashings required. Take "before" pictures. Calculate the square footage of the roof area.
Installing a Roof: Step #3 - Purchasing
Create a list of materials needed. Get at least three quotes for material prices. Order the materials. Receive delivery and loading of the materials. Purchase or rent any extra tools required.
Installing a Roof: Step #4 - For Roofovers
Determine that the existing roof has no more than two layers. Determine that the health of the existing roof can accommodate a roofover. Install new drip edge. Install new valley metal. Install new gooseneck vents and pipe flashings. Remove hips and ridges.
Installing a Roof: Step #5 - For Tear Offs
Remove the old roofing down to the bare wood. Remove all protruding fasteners.
Installing a Roof: Step #6 - Carpentry
Repair any deteriorated sheathing, framing and/or fascia. Renail roof sheathing as needed to meet code. Cut out ridge vents slots as needed.
Installing a Roof: Step #7 - Underlayment
Install underlayment over whole roof deck. Temporarily seal all vents, pipes and other flashings.
Installing a Roof: Step #8 - For Flat Roofs
Remove existing roof down to the bare wood. Repair any deteriorated wood. Install tapered system as needed. Install base sheet, with nail pattern per code. Install self-adhering mid-ply. Install and prime drip edge and flashings. Have "In-Progress" Inspection Install self-adhering cap sheet.
Installing a Roof: Step #9 - Flashing
Tack on the drip edge with 3" minimum lap. Check appearance from ground. Nail off drip edge, with nails no more than 6" apart. Install valley metal and wall flashings. Install new gooseneck vents and pipe flashings. Have "Dry-in" Inspection.
Installing a Roof: Step #10 - Layout
Measure for vertical and horizontal lines. Chalk red layout lines on underlayment.
Installing a Roof: Step #11 - Shingle
Install "ice and water shield" where required. Install starter strips. Install field shingles. Install cap shingles on hips and ridges.
Installing a Roof: Step #12 - Ventilation
Layout ridge vent slots. Cut out slots. Caulk colse to slots with flashing cement. Install ridge vents with corrosion-resistant screws and grommeted washers.
Installing a Roof: Step #13 - Cleanup and Final Inspection
Remove any debris from roof and gutters. Clean up ground. Haul away debris. Return any leftover materials. Take "after" pictures. Have Final Inspection.

Carpentry Framing

Installing a Roof? - The Basic Steps

If you're looking for information on installing a roof, you've come to the right place. Although every step doesn't apply to every project, here is an summary of the basics...

Installing a Roof: Step #1 - Planning
Who's going to do the work?What type of roofing will you install?When will you do the work?Where will you get the roofing materials?Why select one type of roofing over another?How will you tiptoe with the work?
Installing a Roof: Step #2 - Estimating
Create a "birds-eye" sketch of the roof. Measure the slope of the roof. Measure the length of every hip, ridge, valley, eave and rake. Measure the rafter length of each roof section. Determine size and type of pipes, vents and other flashings required. Take "before" pictures. Calculate the square footage of the roof area.
Installing a Roof: Step #3 - Purchasing
Create a list of materials needed. Get at least three quotes for material prices. Order the materials. Receive delivery and loading of the materials. Purchase or rent any extra tools required.
Installing a Roof: Step #4 - For Roofovers
Determine that the existing roof has no more than two layers. Determine that the health of the existing roof can accommodate a roofover. Install new drip edge. Install new valley metal. Install new gooseneck vents and pipe flashings. Remove hips and ridges.
Installing a Roof: Step #5 - For Tear Offs
Remove the old roofing down to the bare wood. Remove all protruding fasteners.
Installing a Roof: Step #6 - Carpentry
Repair any deteriorated sheathing, framing and/or fascia. Renail roof sheathing as needed to meet code. Cut out ridge vents slots as needed.
Installing a Roof: Step #7 - Underlayment
Install underlayment over whole roof deck. Temporarily seal all vents, pipes and other flashings.
Installing a Roof: Step #8 - For Flat Roofs
Remove existing roof down to the bare wood. Repair any deteriorated wood. Install tapered system as needed. Install base sheet, with nail pattern per code. Install self-adhering mid-ply. Install and prime drip edge and flashings. Have "In-Progress" Inspection Install self-adhering cap sheet.
Installing a Roof: Step #9 - Flashing
Tack on the drip edge with 3" minimum lap. Check appearance from ground. Nail off drip edge, with nails no more than 6" apart. Install valley metal and wall flashings. Install new gooseneck vents and pipe flashings. Have "Dry-in" Inspection.
Installing a Roof: Step #10 - Layout
Measure for vertical and horizontal lines. Chalk red layout lines on underlayment.
Installing a Roof: Step #11 - Shingle
Install "ice and water shield" where required. Install starter strips. Install field shingles. Install cap shingles on hips and ridges.
Installing a Roof: Step #12 - Ventilation
Layout ridge vent slots. Cut out slots. Caulk colse to slots with flashing cement. Install ridge vents with corrosion-resistant screws and grommeted washers.
Installing a Roof: Step #13 - Cleanup and Final Inspection
Remove any debris from roof and gutters. Clean up ground. Haul away debris. Return any leftover materials. Take "after" pictures. Have Final Inspection.

Carpentry Framing

Installing a Roof? - The Basic Steps